M&P Trigger Job's, etc. *DCAEK INSTALLED UPDATE*

I decided to keep my M&P and fix the trigger. I want a US made gun from a US company and besides at1911, the M&P is one of few that fits the bill.

So, I see Burwell Gunsmithing can do a trigger job for $65, which is very reasonable. Anyone have this done? Your thoughts? I looked at the DCAECK(sp?) and RAM from Apex Tactical as well. It will be well over $100 for parts alone if I do it myself. The Burwell job sounds similar to what the Apex kit will do. Your thoughts?

Is there another option out there I'm missing? I would like to hear everyones thoughts.

Also, what will void my warranty?

The Burwell job modifies existing parts. The Apex parts replace them. Dog has said he's seen messed up Burwell jobs, but I dont have personal experience with them. I have lots of experience with th Apex parts and consider them as close to guaranteed performance upgrades as possible. Every kit I have installed has worked as described. You are right about the cost, but I see the Apex parts as a "sure thing" and I am willing to pay for that confidence.

Have you installed the DCAEK? Your impression of the stock trigger? Thanks.

Yes, I've installed both the Duty/Carry and the Competition kit, as well as the RAM. I have a number of M&Ps and a variation of trigger work done. My 9FS has the Duty/Carry kit and a RAM. My Pro has a Competition kit, a RAM, and a Massachusetts trigger return spring, my 45 has the hard sear only, and I have 2 9s that are still stock.

I like combination I have in the Pro the best. It's the smoothest, although the pull weight is a little higher than what I have in the 9FS. My impression of the stock trigger is that I can't believe S&W hasn't done something about the triggers. I believe the RAM is almost necessary. With the MA trigger return spring and a RAM, my Pro has almost Glock like reset, but it's still almost. I just had the opportunity to fire a brand new stock Gen 4 Glock 19 this weekend, and frankly, if it weren't for the ridiculous grip angle, I would have gone with Glocks and not M&Ps.

I have yet to try the FSS.

I agree.

OP-

I have sent out at least 5 stock sears to guys that either had the Burwell job done or did it on their own, to replace the messed up sear.

Remember-The stock sear is hardened MIM. As Scott at Apex says, it's like a hard candy with a soft center. Take too much off, and you will wear through the hard shell and get to the gooy center.

Apex is the best choice, IMO. As Kuraki said, it's as close as you will get to a guaranteed trigger job.

Yes some people do go file happy and mess up the MIM.

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I've looked at the videos to install the parts and decided I will give it a try. Apex wants around $150 plus the cost of the ram and along with shipping at $40-$80. Thats alot of cash. I can get the parts from Brownells for under $100 with my discount. I don't know of a gunsmith in the area to do the work.

What about warranty issues? I guess I can remove the parts and replace them with the originals if I start having problems and need to send it in.

burwell has a free PDF tutorial that requires no extra parts.

http://www.burwellguns.com/M&Ptriggerjob1.htm

APEX is also good shit and they have you-tube videos to help you along.

burwells gunsmithing work goes beyond both but you will have to wait.

I'd rate the APEX COMPAEK and RAM 2nd.

with his PDF do it your self 3rd, and not far behind.



the M&P really shines with a good trigger.

Any body handled a M&P worked on by APEX and worked on by Doug at ATEi as well?

Installed my Apex parts in college with no vice and nothing but a home depot punch set and a ball peen hammer... Even got the rear sight back in the same place.

I think you got this

I don't see why you would send it in. If you can work a hammer without hitting your thumbs you can install a DCAEK and RAM.

I've been running a DIY Level 1 Burwell for about a year now, but it's easy to see how going a little too far would frack it up.

However, I had to take time away from shooting because of eye surgery so it has not been truly run hard yet.

Yeah I was messing with the angle on the front of the sear where it contact the trigger bar and I went to far. I was doing 'exploratory surgery' if you will.

Well I ordered the parts. Install is next.

You got it, have faith.

If you need help and are near the NW suburbs, I've got all the tools needed!

His Dad used to be a TV repairman...

I have installed both the DCAEK and AEK trigger myself. They are very easy, just take your time and watch the video.

Installed my first DCAEK kit today in my M&P 9mm and can say it was really easy to do and the results are awesome. The USB makes the biggest difference, but the sear and trigger return spring do wonders too.

I now have DCAEK's in both my FS 9mm and my compact 45 and am 100% satisfied, waiting to order either a kit or just the USB/Sear for my Shield.

ETA: Took me all of 30-45 minutes to install, much nicer than being without my gun for a few weeks.

I installed the DCAEK and RAM today using the Apex videos on YouTube. I am, by no means, a master gunsmith and I got them both installed with minimum drama. The DCAEK makes the trigger much nicer, but the RAM really gave me the reset I was missing. I loved the MP, even with the crappy trigger, and can't wait to get to the range with it now.

Just went to the M&P armorer's class and we were told the triggers on new production guns should be much better than earlier models. My M&P 45 I just bought had a pretty decent trigger from the get go, much better than my buddy's 9mm version which had a very indefinite mushy trigger. I did install the APEX DCAEK but frankly my trigger wasnt bad enough to justify the cost. Dont get me wrong, the APEX is a great setup but the newer stock trigger isnt bad. It does feel better but I shot it about the same.

If buying another M&P I'd insist on being allowed to dry fire several samples to pick the best of the bunch.

Wanna sell your apex kit? Ill buy it.lol.

I read that mid/end of may is when the new run of m&p will have the new trigger assembly.

If I'm slow firing I can feel a tiny crunch/mushy feeling but when I start speeding things uo I can't tell. Still I think ill give apex a try.

Even with the new trigger I'm still thinking that a USB would be mandatory. When I installed my kit I did the USB first then tried the trigger, couldn't believe the difference. But still the front sight was jumping to the right when the trigger broke. With the sear and springs the front sight no longer jumps like it did before, can't wait to shoot it this week.

Yes. I prefer Doug's trigger because he can do exactly what I want whereas APEX is "what you see is what you get" as far as poundage, reset, etc.

Has anyone ever had ATEi work on an apex kit?

I've often wondered what would happen when those two worlds collide, and honestly I'd feel better with him chopping/modding a hardened sear as opposed to the factory one.

Whad difference does the Apex hard sear make?

A lot. Shorter reset and lighter trigger pull.

Thinking about a DIY project for my 9c. Being without my full size is making me just a little crazy right now.

How well does it work with the DCAEK and RAM?

The DCAEK includes the hard sear, sear spring, USB and trigger return spring. Adding the RAM gives it a more positive reset, which you may or may not want or need.

My M&P all have really good audible resets, some that i have tried in the store have absolutely no audible or noticeable reset.

Best bang for buck is the USB, if you want more than that get the DCAEK. No reset on your gun, then get the RAM.

I will concur on that, the USB is the MUST INSTALL part. It made the most difference on my trigger. It's also super easy to install. Make sure you push your rear sight out from left to right. It only goes one way.

I purchased a mp40c on Monday and it has a different type of sear that I'm accustomed to seeing on forums.

This sear is a shiny type metal, not like the dark ones. It has the same geometry as the "darker" colored sears.

It was test fired 3/20/12.

Wonder if this change is proof that the newer production triggers are "better" than older ones.

I polished the sear , striker and trigger bar, smoother but still heavy. Going to modify the sear and remove almost all the "bump" where it cams back the striker before releasing it forward, as the DIY guide says.

I installed a DCAEK in my 45 this weekend. It really helps and it was easy to install after watching the videos

Interesting to hear, I am starting to get frustrated with mine, all my shots end up to the right and a little low. I used to think it was just me and I was a crappy shot, but I recently got a 1911 and can tear a ragged hole a little high and left of the bullseye, so now I'm thinking it's not all me. Maybe it IS the trigger.

Alright guys, I got the DCAEK and RAM installed. Trigger is much improved along with the reset. But, and with me there is always a but............At times, when I pull the trigger slowly to the rear, it will hit the trigger stop and nothing happens or it is somewhat "delayed" to release the striker. In messing with it, I noticed that if I don't place enough pressure on the upper part of the trigger, it will do as I explained. If I take my finger, turn it sidways and push back on just the bottom part of the trigger, it will hit the trigger stop and nothing will happen. If, while holding in this position, I push upward, it will work. Of course I would never fire it like this but it helps further explain what I'm seeing. Ok, thanks guys. I emailed APEX and explained my issue. I haven't fired it yet but have been doing some dry firing. Anyone else notice this?

How old is your M&P?

6 months. 200rds

You will need to open the loop that trips the sear slightly.

I would try removing the RAM and reassembling, does it still have trouble?

...then try putting the factory sear back in....did that fix the trouble?

In other words, replace the APEX parts, one by one, with the factory parts to try to IOSLATE the trouble.

Once you have figured out which part is causing the trouble, you can figure out how to fix it,



I would try that before reshaping the trigger bar.

Is that how long you have had it or how old it is? Check the manilla envelope for test fire date.

I just installed the hard sear from Apex on my Shield and its night and day difference! the reset is shorter and more define. The weight might have gone down a bit as well. It totally cleaned it up. Its a back up gun for work so that is all im gonna do besides a stipple job

You need to open the loop on the trigger bar. See this video. He has the same issue and fixes it.

go to 9:00 and he starts dealing with this issue.

Apex Tactical

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