Archived Posts » 60,595,333
Are the current Draco's working okay? Any problems?
7/28/2011 10:49:55 AM
Looking to buy a couple.
7/28/2011 11:21:51 AM
Nothing wrong at all w/ the Draco line up. I personally did not have a good experience with the Mini, IMO I would look at a "C", Non-C and a 5.56.
7/28/2011 11:54:08 AM
I'm not looking at a Mini and from what I understand I want the regular non-C model. The C model is for an underfolder correct?
I'd be looking to put a ACE stock on the end and SBR it.
I'd be looking to put a ACE stock on the end and SBR it.
7/28/2011 12:35:42 PM
My C is fine thru 300 rounds
7/28/2011 3:56:29 PM
From what I understand, you can run an ace on a C model as well as the non C.
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Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
7/28/2011 9:24:09 PM
mine likes to mash up HPs and fail to extract fully...sometimes. I sent it off to a smith and he told me that the chamber is a tad on the tight side and to hit the chamber with some polishing compound but told me to not go past the shoulder. I guess the shoulder is where it's tight at. I gotta polish the feed ramp area too. Other than that it runs fine. 
7/29/2011 12:34:54 AM
My #'s matching 1968 Draco-C SBR has been flawless ever since the initial break-in. I did have FTFs for the first 100-200 rounds due to the hammer hanging on the bolt excessively. Normal use resolved the issue. My receiver is slightly out of spec, which has not been an issue but made fitting an aftermarket safety lever a challenge. No issues with any other parts interchange. I have approximately 3,600 rounds down the pipe and two tactical carbine courses under its belt. Most recently it shot 740 rounds in a four hour period and an additional 390 rounds the following day with no cleaning in between. It did this with not a single malfunction of any kind, and held a 2.5" 3-shot group at 50 yards and a 6.5" 5-shot group at 100 yards at the end of the 2nd day. It feeds hollow points, soft points (123, 125, and 154 gr), and ballistic tipped bullets flawlessly.
7/29/2011 9:28:49 AM
I have a non-C, a C, and a Mini. I have not had a single problem with any of the three. I have about 750 rounds through each of the regular Dracos and about 500 through the Mini. The only ammo I have used is yellow box Norinco steel core and small white box Russian stuff- both of which I bought a lot of in the early 1990s.
7/29/2011 10:15:37 AM
Originally Posted By toyotaman:
The C model is for an underfolder correct?
I'd be looking to put a ACE stock on the end and SBR it.
The C model is for an underfolder correct?
I'd be looking to put a ACE stock on the end and SBR it.
Yes, the "C" model has a cut under folder trunnion as to where the Non-C has an uncut under folder trunnion. You can put an ace stock on either pistol.
8/3/2011 11:13:17 PM
Im guessing 2k of nothing but black box wolf with zero issues. Love my Draco!
8/4/2011 11:32:32 PM
Bought a non c Draco today and shot about 100rds through it without a hiccup. Didn't even clean it, bought it at a shop with a range and took it right out of the box. Was shooting tula ammo from Walmart with the 2 included 30rd surplus mags. Love it, great wood and sights were pretty much dead on.
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
I've also built a couple kits and had a GSAD preban. I'm impressd with the Draco.
I see you're in Florida, I got mine at shoot straight in apopka for $399 and it came with 2 30rd mags and a cleaning rod.
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
I've also built a couple kits and had a GSAD preban. I'm impressd with the Draco.
I see you're in Florida, I got mine at shoot straight in apopka for $399 and it came with 2 30rd mags and a cleaning rod.
8/5/2011 1:26:23 AM
Mine runs
8/5/2011 1:40:30 PM
That is a sexy bitch!
ummmm I mean very nice looking
ummmm I mean very nice looking
Originally Posted By 0uTkAsT:
My #'s matching 1968 Draco-C SBR has been flawless ever since the initial break-in. I did have FTFs for the first 100-200 rounds due to the hammer hanging on the bolt excessively. Normal use resolved the issue. My receiver is slightly out of spec, which has not been an issue but made fitting an aftermarket safety lever a challenge. No issues with any other parts interchange. I have approximately 3,600 rounds down the pipe and two tactical carbine courses under its belt. Most recently it shot 740 rounds in a four hour period and an additional 390 rounds the following day with no cleaning in between. It did this with not a single malfunction of any kind, and held a 2.5" 3-shot group at 50 yards and a 6.5" 5-shot group at 100 yards at the end of the 2nd day. It feeds hollow points, soft points (123, 125, and 154 gr), and ballistic tipped bullets flawlessly.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/250199_10150232996730904_660105903_7621363_5666145_n.jpg
My #'s matching 1968 Draco-C SBR has been flawless ever since the initial break-in. I did have FTFs for the first 100-200 rounds due to the hammer hanging on the bolt excessively. Normal use resolved the issue. My receiver is slightly out of spec, which has not been an issue but made fitting an aftermarket safety lever a challenge. No issues with any other parts interchange. I have approximately 3,600 rounds down the pipe and two tactical carbine courses under its belt. Most recently it shot 740 rounds in a four hour period and an additional 390 rounds the following day with no cleaning in between. It did this with not a single malfunction of any kind, and held a 2.5" 3-shot group at 50 yards and a 6.5" 5-shot group at 100 yards at the end of the 2nd day. It feeds hollow points, soft points (123, 125, and 154 gr), and ballistic tipped bullets flawlessly.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/250199_10150232996730904_660105903_7621363_5666145_n.jpg
8/5/2011 1:56:21 PM
1969 Draco C all matching #s. Flawless from day one. No break in required. It is a trusted weapon. I keep it handy as a compact go to. It made a nice smiley face at a stagering 10 yards. Not real purdy, It looked like it needed braces. Man sized targets are good to go at much further with easy to control quick follow ups.
8/5/2011 3:17:16 PM
I finally got my SBR back from the smith. I was having some feeding issues with mine. The headspace is a little tight on it. I decided to dremmel the feed ramps. Also, there was a small lip on the chamber that was catching rounds as they were being fed. I just barely hit it with the dremel and all is well. Runs like a raped ape now. I LOVE THIS THING.
P.S. don't worry about what I said about the chamber. The cartridge is FULLY supported and I have not compromised the integrity of the chamber area. I just rounded a sharp edge.
P.S. don't worry about what I said about the chamber. The cartridge is FULLY supported and I have not compromised the integrity of the chamber area. I just rounded a sharp edge.
8/6/2011 12:29:48 AM
Originally Posted By 1BMF:
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
.
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
.
I have a couple questions....I have a new mini draco that so far has been pretty reliable for the 191 rounds I've put through it (3 FTEs in the first 60 rounds, none after). However, I tried to install a Tapco G2 trigger in it, and while hand cycling, the carrier would get really hung up on the hammer. I tried polishing the hammer and filing it flat....but it simply is too high compared to the factory trigger. I've resolved myself to the fact that I'm likely stuck with the factory Romy trigger (which is actually pretty nice, but I prefer the G2).
I notice the top rails on this mini seem to be "wavy" for lack of a better term. I'm wondering if some of the resistance is from the rails, in addition to the hammer sitting too high. I'm also wondering if I modify the rails, if the problem will lessen to the point I can actually install and use the G2 trigger.
Can you give me any pointers on how tell if the rails are out of spec? (Sorry if this is a newb question....I'm new to AKs).
Thanks in advance,
Sean
8/6/2011 12:32:29 AM
I SBR'D mine and it runs like a striped ape. Everybody that shoots it wants one. Mine is a non-c model.
8/6/2011 1:51:43 AM
Originally Posted By SeanK1ng:
However, I tried to install a Tapco G2 trigger in it, and while hand cycling, the carrier would get really hung up on the hammer. I tried polishing the hammer and filing it flat....but it simply is too high compared to the factory trigger. I've resolved myself to the fact that I'm likely stuck with the factory Romy trigger (which is actually pretty nice, but I prefer the G2).
I'm also wondering if I modify the rails, if the problem will lessen to the point I can actually install and use the G2 trigger.
There is a saying, "If it aint broke, don't fix it". The only reason the Tapco G-2 exists is for 922 compliance. Your Draco which is a pistol doesn't have to comply, unless you intend to SBR it. So since you don't need to deal with 922, why would you want to replace a perfectly good foreign made milled FCG that has no problems, with an inferior US made cast FCG that is giving you problems? GARY N4KVE
Originally Posted By 1BMF:
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
.
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
.
However, I tried to install a Tapco G2 trigger in it, and while hand cycling, the carrier would get really hung up on the hammer. I tried polishing the hammer and filing it flat....but it simply is too high compared to the factory trigger. I've resolved myself to the fact that I'm likely stuck with the factory Romy trigger (which is actually pretty nice, but I prefer the G2).
I'm also wondering if I modify the rails, if the problem will lessen to the point I can actually install and use the G2 trigger.
8/6/2011 3:29:34 AM
Originally Posted By gsd2053:
That is a sexy bitch!
ummmm I mean very nice looking
That is a sexy bitch!
ummmm I mean very nice looking
Originally Posted By 0uTkAsT:
My #'s matching 1968 Draco-C SBR has been flawless ever since the initial break-in. I did have FTFs for the first 100-200 rounds due to the hammer hanging on the bolt excessively. Normal use resolved the issue. My receiver is slightly out of spec, which has not been an issue but made fitting an aftermarket safety lever a challenge. No issues with any other parts interchange. I have approximately 3,600 rounds down the pipe and two tactical carbine courses under its belt. Most recently it shot 740 rounds in a four hour period and an additional 390 rounds the following day with no cleaning in between. It did this with not a single malfunction of any kind, and held a 2.5" 3-shot group at 50 yards and a 6.5" 5-shot group at 100 yards at the end of the 2nd day. It feeds hollow points, soft points (123, 125, and 154 gr), and ballistic tipped bullets flawlessly.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/250199_10150232996730904_660105903_7621363_5666145_n.jpg
My #'s matching 1968 Draco-C SBR has been flawless ever since the initial break-in. I did have FTFs for the first 100-200 rounds due to the hammer hanging on the bolt excessively. Normal use resolved the issue. My receiver is slightly out of spec, which has not been an issue but made fitting an aftermarket safety lever a challenge. No issues with any other parts interchange. I have approximately 3,600 rounds down the pipe and two tactical carbine courses under its belt. Most recently it shot 740 rounds in a four hour period and an additional 390 rounds the following day with no cleaning in between. It did this with not a single malfunction of any kind, and held a 2.5" 3-shot group at 50 yards and a 6.5" 5-shot group at 100 yards at the end of the 2nd day. It feeds hollow points, soft points (123, 125, and 154 gr), and ballistic tipped bullets flawlessly.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/250199_10150232996730904_660105903_7621363_5666145_n.jpg
Thanks
8/6/2011 1:01:50 PM
Originally Posted By N4KVE:
Originally Posted By SeanK1ng:
However, I tried to install a Tapco G2 trigger in it, and while hand cycling, the carrier would get really hung up on the hammer. I tried polishing the hammer and filing it flat....but it simply is too high compared to the factory trigger. I've resolved myself to the fact that I'm likely stuck with the factory Romy trigger (which is actually pretty nice, but I prefer the G2).
I'm also wondering if I modify the rails, if the problem will lessen to the point I can actually install and use the G2 trigger.
There is a saying, "If it aint broke, don't fix it". The only reason the Tapco G-2 exists is for 922 compliance. Your Draco which is a pistol doesn't have to comply, unless you intend to SBR it. So since you don't need to deal with 922, why would you want to replace a perfectly good foreign made milled FCG that has no problems, with an inferior US made cast FCG that is giving you problems? GARY N4KVE
Originally Posted By 1BMF:
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
.
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
.
However, I tried to install a Tapco G2 trigger in it, and while hand cycling, the carrier would get really hung up on the hammer. I tried polishing the hammer and filing it flat....but it simply is too high compared to the factory trigger. I've resolved myself to the fact that I'm likely stuck with the factory Romy trigger (which is actually pretty nice, but I prefer the G2).
I'm also wondering if I modify the rails, if the problem will lessen to the point I can actually install and use the G2 trigger.
You are obviously entitled to your opinion....however, IMO, the G2 is a nicer trigger than the stock Romy. It has a lighter pull, a shorter reset, and is smoother with a cleaner break. Yes, I do intend to SBR it.
Sean
8/6/2011 2:56:14 PM
Originally Posted By SeanK1ng:
You are obviously entitled to your opinion....however, IMO, the G2 is a nicer trigger than the stock Romy. It has a lighter pull, a shorter reset, and is smoother with a cleaner break. Yes, I do intend to SBR it.
Sean
Originally Posted By N4KVE:
Originally Posted By SeanK1ng:
However, I tried to install a Tapco G2 trigger in it, and while hand cycling, the carrier would get really hung up on the hammer. I tried polishing the hammer and filing it flat....but it simply is too high compared to the factory trigger. I've resolved myself to the fact that I'm likely stuck with the factory Romy trigger (which is actually pretty nice, but I prefer the G2).
I'm also wondering if I modify the rails, if the problem will lessen to the point I can actually install and use the G2 trigger.
There is a saying, "If it aint broke, don't fix it". The only reason the Tapco G-2 exists is for 922 compliance. Your Draco which is a pistol doesn't have to comply, unless you intend to SBR it. So since you don't need to deal with 922, why would you want to replace a perfectly good foreign made milled FCG that has no problems, with an inferior US made cast FCG that is giving you problems? GARY N4KVE
Originally Posted By 1BMF:
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
.
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
.
However, I tried to install a Tapco G2 trigger in it, and while hand cycling, the carrier would get really hung up on the hammer. I tried polishing the hammer and filing it flat....but it simply is too high compared to the factory trigger. I've resolved myself to the fact that I'm likely stuck with the factory Romy trigger (which is actually pretty nice, but I prefer the G2).
I'm also wondering if I modify the rails, if the problem will lessen to the point I can actually install and use the G2 trigger.
You are obviously entitled to your opinion....however, IMO, the G2 is a nicer trigger than the stock Romy. It has a lighter pull, a shorter reset, and is smoother with a cleaner break. Yes, I do intend to SBR it.
Sean
I agree. I like the G2s. It is a good idea to clean them very well before putting them in. They are usually a little gritty out of the box.
8/6/2011 4:52:05 PM
Originally Posted By SeanK1ng:
I have a couple questions....I have a new mini draco that so far has been pretty reliable for the 191 rounds I've put through it (3 FTEs in the first 60 rounds, none after). However, I tried to install a Tapco G2 trigger in it, and while hand cycling, the carrier would get really hung up on the hammer. I tried polishing the hammer and filing it flat....but it simply is too high compared to the factory trigger. I've resolved myself to the fact that I'm likely stuck with the factory Romy trigger (which is actually pretty nice, but I prefer the G2).
I notice the top rails on this mini seem to be "wavy" for lack of a better term. I'm wondering if some of the resistance is from the rails, in addition to the hammer sitting too high. I'm also wondering if I modify the rails, if the problem will lessen to the point I can actually install and use the G2 trigger.
Can you give me any pointers on how tell if the rails are out of spec? (Sorry if this is a newb question....I'm new to AKs).
Thanks in advance,
Sean
Originally Posted By 1BMF:
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
.
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
.
I have a couple questions....I have a new mini draco that so far has been pretty reliable for the 191 rounds I've put through it (3 FTEs in the first 60 rounds, none after). However, I tried to install a Tapco G2 trigger in it, and while hand cycling, the carrier would get really hung up on the hammer. I tried polishing the hammer and filing it flat....but it simply is too high compared to the factory trigger. I've resolved myself to the fact that I'm likely stuck with the factory Romy trigger (which is actually pretty nice, but I prefer the G2).
I notice the top rails on this mini seem to be "wavy" for lack of a better term. I'm wondering if some of the resistance is from the rails, in addition to the hammer sitting too high. I'm also wondering if I modify the rails, if the problem will lessen to the point I can actually install and use the G2 trigger.
Can you give me any pointers on how tell if the rails are out of spec? (Sorry if this is a newb question....I'm new to AKs).
Thanks in advance,
Sean
One way to check is by removing the fcg and sliding the bolt carrier back and forth. There should be no resistance, falling freely all the way to the rear. If it doesn't, also look at the bolt carrier where it contacts the upper rail. Mine was soo bad, the finish had been worn off the little slot where it touches. It was slowing my bolt carrier down enough where sometimes it wouldn't fully chamber a new round.
If you ride the bolt, it will hang up over the hammer. Is it just when you hand cycle it? Or does it stay back when your firing it?
8/6/2011 5:14:37 PM
Originally Posted By 1BMF:
One way to check is by removing the fcg and sliding the bolt carrier back and forth. There should be no resistance, falling freely all the way to the rear. If it doesn't, also look at the bolt carrier where it contacts the upper rail. Mine was soo bad, the finish had been worn off the little slot where it touches. It was slowing my bolt carrier down enough where sometimes it wouldn't fully chamber a new round.
If you ride the bolt, it will hang up over the hammer. Is it just when you hand cycle it? Or does it stay back when your firing it?
Originally Posted By SeanK1ng:
I have a couple questions....I have a new mini draco that so far has been pretty reliable for the 191 rounds I've put through it (3 FTEs in the first 60 rounds, none after). However, I tried to install a Tapco G2 trigger in it, and while hand cycling, the carrier would get really hung up on the hammer. I tried polishing the hammer and filing it flat....but it simply is too high compared to the factory trigger. I've resolved myself to the fact that I'm likely stuck with the factory Romy trigger (which is actually pretty nice, but I prefer the G2).
I notice the top rails on this mini seem to be "wavy" for lack of a better term. I'm wondering if some of the resistance is from the rails, in addition to the hammer sitting too high. I'm also wondering if I modify the rails, if the problem will lessen to the point I can actually install and use the G2 trigger.
Can you give me any pointers on how tell if the rails are out of spec? (Sorry if this is a newb question....I'm new to AKs).
Thanks in advance,
Sean
Originally Posted By 1BMF:
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
.
I have a wasr 10th under folder and a regular wasr 10th that I bought in 2009. Both had to be sent back, receivers top rails weren't to speck and bolts wouldn't cycle. They got the wood stock wasr running fine and its been great since, accurate too. The underfolder I ended up hitting the rails with a hand file. Measured them to compare to my other one. Had about 1mm to much material on each side. Put 100 rounds through it today, finally got all the kinks out of it.
.
I have a couple questions....I have a new mini draco that so far has been pretty reliable for the 191 rounds I've put through it (3 FTEs in the first 60 rounds, none after). However, I tried to install a Tapco G2 trigger in it, and while hand cycling, the carrier would get really hung up on the hammer. I tried polishing the hammer and filing it flat....but it simply is too high compared to the factory trigger. I've resolved myself to the fact that I'm likely stuck with the factory Romy trigger (which is actually pretty nice, but I prefer the G2).
I notice the top rails on this mini seem to be "wavy" for lack of a better term. I'm wondering if some of the resistance is from the rails, in addition to the hammer sitting too high. I'm also wondering if I modify the rails, if the problem will lessen to the point I can actually install and use the G2 trigger.
Can you give me any pointers on how tell if the rails are out of spec? (Sorry if this is a newb question....I'm new to AKs).
Thanks in advance,
Sean
One way to check is by removing the fcg and sliding the bolt carrier back and forth. There should be no resistance, falling freely all the way to the rear. If it doesn't, also look at the bolt carrier where it contacts the upper rail. Mine was soo bad, the finish had been worn off the little slot where it touches. It was slowing my bolt carrier down enough where sometimes it wouldn't fully chamber a new round.
If you ride the bolt, it will hang up over the hammer. Is it just when you hand cycle it? Or does it stay back when your firing it?
Thanks for the info....I did find when comparing the bolt to the full size draco I have, that the mini's bolt was not tapered on the bottom to the same profile. I used an air sander to get the same profile and have greatly reduced the drag on the Romy hammer (and the G2, but it still hangs pretty hard on the G2). I am reasonably sure the bolt carrier isn't having much, if any, resistance with the FCG removed. I did partially polish the rails and checked the contact points on the bolt carrier and didn't find any obvious issues. I plan to measure the rails themselves per your earlier recommendation.
Idiot Alert
: I haven't had a chance to get it to the range with the G2 installed.....I'm broke and it's 108º or so outside. Next time I get to the range, I'll take both triggers and swap them to see. It's currently only happening when cycling by hand.....but to a much greater degree than with the full size draco that has the other G2 trigger in it. The bolt would hang up over the hammer even if you didn't ride it in the mini but not in the full size......which is what was leading me to believe I had a problem that I should probably address (as Gary said though......if it ain't broke, don't fix it....and admittedly, I am not sure it wouldn't function just fine with live ammo....but I don't like having question marks about the reliability of a gun). Obviously, the answer is to go shoot it....and I will as soon as I have a chance. But I tinker with things by nature, so I'm just trying to eliminate as many variables as I can before I get to the range.
Sean
