Broke off tap in the back of my draco receiver...Help
I was tapping some 10-32 holes in my Draco receiver for a small midwest industries rail section and my tap sheared off flush with the receiver. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get it out?
I've tried punching and drilling it out, 4 dead 1/8" drill bits and 1 dead snap on punch. I am thinking about grinding the hole smooth, filling with JB weld and sand/paint and start over in another location.
You should be able to shatter it with a punch. Next time use more oil...you really can't use too much.
Seabee_Mech, The tap I used is a 2 flute one from Lowes "cobalt brand". It looks like the tap removers I need are out of stock but thank you for the suggestion.
Surly, I used an 1/8 " Snap on punch to first- rotate the tap by punching it in the reverse direction, then, try to shatter the tap. My punch shattered instead. I'll give it a try with another punch and if that fails I'll probably just fill the hole with Jb weld and go to plan "B".
Thank you both for the help/suggestions.
Take it to a welding shop, get them to weld a "tail" onto the tap, then use that to pull it out.
take it to a machine shop and have them E.D.M it out i could do it for you if your in the 4 states
That sucks. I feel your pain... While tapping the two holes for an SBR build, I ended up breaking off 2 cheapie and 1 cobalt tap... and yes I used a lot of cutting oil and only did 1/4 or less turns while constantly backing out the tap. The trunnion is just some really, really hard metal. Went through 3 cobalt bits to make the holes. The taps always snapped when I was a couple full turns from being finished.
To make a long story short two of the taps I had to slowly pound/dremel/chip away at them and they eventually shattered. I was determined to remove the taps myself but the last resort would have been EDM. Worst case you can drill a bigger hole and weld it up but I wouldnt weld the tap in there.
The cobalt one was extremely difficult to shatter. Use a combination of small cobalt or titanium drill bits, hardened punches. Make sure the punches have sharp points and hit at steep angles. At one point I also used a diamond bit, for drilling holes in glass, the bit is extremely hard and brittle, you have to go slow. Also those spring loaded center punches, used for making an indentation for a drill bit so the bit doesnt walk works too. Essentially use anything that you can find that is harder than the tap. Sharp points and chiseled cutting surfaces will chip away at the tap. ....after 2 days of working on them for a couple hours a day they were finally disintegrated. The holes/threads were in good shape with only minor nicks and scratches. The question is would I ever do it again.
I ended up covering it with JB weld. I broke the following trying to remove this damn tap: 1- snap on .125" punch, 2 - stanley tapered nail sets roughly .18" tips, 3 gold cobalt bits and 1 titanium. The nail sets just bent in a "U" shape from the hammering, I tried to straighten them in a vice but then they just snapped. The Drill bits just burned up. The Snap on punch literally shattered. Screw it.
Thanks every one for you help!
My gunsmith kinks book has a method I have never tried. It says to use an oxy-acetylene welding tip (not cutting torch) Heat tap till orange and shutoff the gas while holding it over the broken tap, the oxygen that is still flowing will blow the remains of the tap out. I have not tried this method, but I will if I find my self in your predicament.