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Not sure how to improve my yugo trigger
1/11/2010 8:27:58 PM
I have an early century M70 and the trigger just aint up to my liking.
It seems to drag just before taking up the slack. I think ive posted about this before, but its been a while and I never got around to it doing something about it last time. Someone recommended the RSA (red star) trigger, and thats what I might try. One interesting point, is that even with the hammer in the up position, the trigger pivot pin (not sure its called that) seems to bind a bit when the trigger is depressed. Also, I can almost see the "pivot pin" move down on the left side of the receiver, instead of simply rotating. How can I can tell the trigger in it now is a tapco/G2 trigger or something else?
Ok, I know the AK is not mean tot have a match trigger but dang it, I want something smoother than I got now.
ideas?
It seems to drag just before taking up the slack. I think ive posted about this before, but its been a while and I never got around to it doing something about it last time. Someone recommended the RSA (red star) trigger, and thats what I might try. One interesting point, is that even with the hammer in the up position, the trigger pivot pin (not sure its called that) seems to bind a bit when the trigger is depressed. Also, I can almost see the "pivot pin" move down on the left side of the receiver, instead of simply rotating. How can I can tell the trigger in it now is a tapco/G2 trigger or something else?
Ok, I know the AK is not mean tot have a match trigger but dang it, I want something smoother than I got now.
ideas?
1/11/2010 8:55:54 PM
The trigger will say "Tapco USA G2" on it if it is a G2.
Besides RSA and the G2, I've read very good reviews on the Texas Triggers. I want to try one, so it will be the next trigger I buy.
Besides RSA and the G2, I've read very good reviews on the Texas Triggers. I want to try one, so it will be the next trigger I buy.
1/12/2010 8:54:20 AM
Originally Posted By Eastwood123:
One interesting point, is that even with the hammer in the up position, the trigger pivot pin (not sure its called that) seems to bind a bit when the trigger is depressed. Also, I can almost see the "pivot pin" move down on the left side of the receiver, instead of simply rotating.
One interesting point, is that even with the hammer in the up position, the trigger pivot pin (not sure its called that) seems to bind a bit when the trigger is depressed. Also, I can almost see the "pivot pin" move down on the left side of the receiver, instead of simply rotating.
The trigger is supposed to rotate on the pin. The pin is NOT supposed to rotate in the holes.
2/3/2010 5:31:26 PM
POLYTHENEPAM - yes, now that Ive starred down into the receiver a few times with a flashlight and worked the trigger a bit, just before it breaks, I think the "rough" or "gritty" sensation Im feeling is due to the trigger rotating on the pin. Its during this take-up 1st stage. The 2nd stage isnt bad at all. Is there anything to do to improve this first stage? Maybe some lube or dry graphite? So I dont think its the actual trigger per say, just the 1st stage that involves the trigger rotating on its pin that is gritty.
2/4/2010 6:22:46 PM
Do you have a TAPCO G2 fire control group, or a Century made fcg? The TAPCO G2 is so marked on the left side of the hammer.
If you have a G2, there is a sleeve that the pivot pin goes through. The trigger and disconnector are mounted on the sleeve. The sleeve rotates on the pin when you squeeze the trigger. There may not be any lubricant between the pin and the sleeve. If that is the case the lack of lubricant could cause drag.
If that's not the problem you can polish the trigger and hammer surfaces where they mate, but I suggest you do so carefully.
If you have the Century made fcg, the best thing to do is replace it. I tried to smooth a Century fcg once. By the time I removed all the bumps, ridges and valleys there wasn't much left of the hook.
If you have a G2, there is a sleeve that the pivot pin goes through. The trigger and disconnector are mounted on the sleeve. The sleeve rotates on the pin when you squeeze the trigger. There may not be any lubricant between the pin and the sleeve. If that is the case the lack of lubricant could cause drag.
If that's not the problem you can polish the trigger and hammer surfaces where they mate, but I suggest you do so carefully.
If you have the Century made fcg, the best thing to do is replace it. I tried to smooth a Century fcg once. By the time I removed all the bumps, ridges and valleys there wasn't much left of the hook.
2/10/2010 6:05:10 PM
Be warned. I also have a Century M70B1 with the Century trigger group. Ordered a Tapco G2 and installed it. Went to the range, chambered a round, gun fires but would not fire the second round. Hammer would not stay back, and after further observation it was "riding home". I posted about it here on ARFCOM, and come to find out the Nodak Spud receiver it is built on sometimes has a problem with these trigger groups. Bottom line the G2 trigger is incompatible with my gun. It works for some folks, others it doesn't. Pulled it back out and used it in a Polish underfolder w/ no problems.
Chapter 2: Bought a Red Star group, expensive but damn nice as I have one in my SAR1. Tore it down, assembled the gun with the Red Star, and the trigger locks up. The Red Star trigger is too long, and binds against the trigger guard. The Yugo trigger guard is a different shape, and is not as tall. SHIT. To make it work you would have to grind the trigger down and shorten it, then smooth it up & re-blue. This is gonna change the feel of the trigger big time, so I said screw it and put the Century back in, got an exchange on the trigger group for some mags. I may try another brand, and modify it if I have to.
Chapter 2: Bought a Red Star group, expensive but damn nice as I have one in my SAR1. Tore it down, assembled the gun with the Red Star, and the trigger locks up. The Red Star trigger is too long, and binds against the trigger guard. The Yugo trigger guard is a different shape, and is not as tall. SHIT. To make it work you would have to grind the trigger down and shorten it, then smooth it up & re-blue. This is gonna change the feel of the trigger big time, so I said screw it and put the Century back in, got an exchange on the trigger group for some mags. I may try another brand, and modify it if I have to.
2/12/2010 7:08:45 AM
What about the Jard?
2/13/2010 11:57:28 AM
Originally Posted By DaffyDuck:
Be warned. I also have a Century M70B1 with the Century trigger group. Ordered a Tapco G2 and installed it. Went to the range, chambered a round, gun fires but would not fire the second round. Hammer would not stay back, and after further observation it was "riding home". I posted about it here on ARFCOM, and come to find out the Nodak Spud receiver it is built on sometimes has a problem with these trigger groups. Bottom line the G2 trigger is incompatible with my gun. It works for some folks, others it doesn't. Pulled it back out and used it in a Polish underfolder w/ no problems.
Chapter 2: Bought a Red Star group, expensive but damn nice as I have one in my SAR1. Tore it down, assembled the gun with the Red Star, and the trigger locks up. The Red Star trigger is too long, and binds against the trigger guard. The Yugo trigger guard is a different shape, and is not as tall. SHIT. To make it work you would have to grind the trigger down and shorten it, then smooth it up & re-blue. This is gonna change the feel of the trigger big time, so I said screw it and put the Century back in, got an exchange on the trigger group for some mags. I may try another brand, and modify it if I have to.
Be warned. I also have a Century M70B1 with the Century trigger group. Ordered a Tapco G2 and installed it. Went to the range, chambered a round, gun fires but would not fire the second round. Hammer would not stay back, and after further observation it was "riding home". I posted about it here on ARFCOM, and come to find out the Nodak Spud receiver it is built on sometimes has a problem with these trigger groups. Bottom line the G2 trigger is incompatible with my gun. It works for some folks, others it doesn't. Pulled it back out and used it in a Polish underfolder w/ no problems.
Chapter 2: Bought a Red Star group, expensive but damn nice as I have one in my SAR1. Tore it down, assembled the gun with the Red Star, and the trigger locks up. The Red Star trigger is too long, and binds against the trigger guard. The Yugo trigger guard is a different shape, and is not as tall. SHIT. To make it work you would have to grind the trigger down and shorten it, then smooth it up & re-blue. This is gonna change the feel of the trigger big time, so I said screw it and put the Century back in, got an exchange on the trigger group for some mags. I may try another brand, and modify it if I have to.
I use Red Stars quite a bit and like them, but as you mentioned they don't fit all without some modification. In my Romanians they fit fine. In my Yugos I have to take nearly 1/8th inch off the trigger. In my PSL I had to remove some of the hump immediately behind the trigger to get it to rock/swing like it should (when I contacted them they confirmed that would be necessary). I bought my Red Stars for my Romies from Copes. I got the rest directly from Power Custom because they had it so you could select your specific rifle from the drop down. It cost me more and the trigger group was exactly the same (not worth going with Power Custom directly). I have gotten great groups with them and love the fact that you can adjust everything. Others in my build group simply copied the trigger group and make their own adjustable trigger groups. I still plan on ordering Red Stars for the rest of my builds.
3/26/2010 11:18:30 PM
The stock TAPCO single hook is about as good as an AKM trigger can get.
Make sure that the mating surfaces on the trigger and sear are polished mirror smooth. Don't remove any more metal than necessary. Use a fine stone BY HAND!! slowly to smooth the bearing surfaces, then polish with red rouge.
Also, a spot that causes some gritty feeling is the hooked legs of the trigger return spring. The legs will rub on the unpolished "as cast" top of the trigger. Smooth that spring bearing surface mirror bright.
Apply some Brownells Action Magic to the trigger and sear bearing points, and to the top of the trigger where the spring legs ride on them.
Then off to Camp Perry for the 600 Yard competition.
Make sure that the mating surfaces on the trigger and sear are polished mirror smooth. Don't remove any more metal than necessary. Use a fine stone BY HAND!! slowly to smooth the bearing surfaces, then polish with red rouge.
Also, a spot that causes some gritty feeling is the hooked legs of the trigger return spring. The legs will rub on the unpolished "as cast" top of the trigger. Smooth that spring bearing surface mirror bright.
Apply some Brownells Action Magic to the trigger and sear bearing points, and to the top of the trigger where the spring legs ride on them.
Then off to Camp Perry for the 600 Yard competition.
3/30/2010 12:33:44 PM
Originally Posted By DaffyDuck:
Be warned. I also have a Century M70B1 with the Century trigger group. Ordered a Tapco G2 and installed it. Went to the range, chambered a round, gun fires but would not fire the second round. Hammer would not stay back, and after further observation it was "riding home". I posted about it here on ARFCOM, and come to find out the Nodak Spud receiver it is built on sometimes has a problem with these trigger groups. Bottom line the G2 trigger is incompatible with my gun. It works for some folks, others it doesn't. Pulled it back out and used it in a Polish underfolder w/ no problems.
Be warned. I also have a Century M70B1 with the Century trigger group. Ordered a Tapco G2 and installed it. Went to the range, chambered a round, gun fires but would not fire the second round. Hammer would not stay back, and after further observation it was "riding home". I posted about it here on ARFCOM, and come to find out the Nodak Spud receiver it is built on sometimes has a problem with these trigger groups. Bottom line the G2 trigger is incompatible with my gun. It works for some folks, others it doesn't. Pulled it back out and used it in a Polish underfolder w/ no problems.
You SURE you installed the FCG correctly?
It sounds like your disconnector and/or disconnector spring is having an issue cause that's the part that locks the hammer back after a round is fired.
My buddy had the same issue and it turns out the disconnector spring broke in half and it wasn't long enough anymore. It wasn't until I compared it to a new disconnector spring that I realized it actualy broke in 1/2 and wasn't long enough.
3/31/2010 6:42:13 PM
Originally Posted By MillerSHO:
You SURE you installed the FCG correctly?
It sounds like your disconnector and/or disconnector spring is having an issue cause that's the part that locks the hammer back after a round is fired.
My buddy had the same issue and it turns out the disconnector spring broke in half and it wasn't long enough anymore. It wasn't until I compared it to a new disconnector spring that I realized it actualy broke in 1/2 and wasn't long enough.
Originally Posted By DaffyDuck:
Be warned. I also have a Century M70B1 with the Century trigger group. Ordered a Tapco G2 and installed it. Went to the range, chambered a round, gun fires but would not fire the second round. Hammer would not stay back, and after further observation it was "riding home". I posted about it here on ARFCOM, and come to find out the Nodak Spud receiver it is built on sometimes has a problem with these trigger groups. Bottom line the G2 trigger is incompatible with my gun. It works for some folks, others it doesn't. Pulled it back out and used it in a Polish underfolder w/ no problems.
Be warned. I also have a Century M70B1 with the Century trigger group. Ordered a Tapco G2 and installed it. Went to the range, chambered a round, gun fires but would not fire the second round. Hammer would not stay back, and after further observation it was "riding home". I posted about it here on ARFCOM, and come to find out the Nodak Spud receiver it is built on sometimes has a problem with these trigger groups. Bottom line the G2 trigger is incompatible with my gun. It works for some folks, others it doesn't. Pulled it back out and used it in a Polish underfolder w/ no problems.
You SURE you installed the FCG correctly?
It sounds like your disconnector and/or disconnector spring is having an issue cause that's the part that locks the hammer back after a round is fired.
My buddy had the same issue and it turns out the disconnector spring broke in half and it wasn't long enough anymore. It wasn't until I compared it to a new disconnector spring that I realized it actualy broke in 1/2 and wasn't long enough.
Yes, install was correct. I have installed FCG in 5 AK's, 4 of my own and one for my brother. It is the Nodak Spud receiver vs the G2. I may order one of the Teas triggers, I have sent them an e-mail with a couple of questions, awaiting a response.
