My New SGL21-62

I very recently purchased a new SGL21-62. I field stripped and cleaned it last night for the first time after reading the sticky in the cleaning forum and watching some YouTube videos. The lock/release leaver for the gas tube was very very stiff. My thumb and finger are still a little sore and I had to carefully wrap some pliers to use on it to get it to fully lock back in place. Is that normal?

Thank you,

Curt

yes.

I had the exact same problem the first time I field stripped my SGL 31. The lever is too tight to move with your bare hands - you'll need a mallet or small hammer to get it going. Even after I moved the lever to the unlock position, the gas tube would not come off.

I used a blackhawk sling (placing it through the two handguards and pulling up hard on it) to finally remove the gas tube.

By the way, if you do use a hammer or mallet, make sure to protect the finish by placing a piece of cloth or something soft around the lever.

There is a slot cut in the bolt carrier and the gas tube lever will slide right into it. Then you can use the carrier as a fulcrum to move the gas tube lever very easily. My googlefu is weak at the moment but there are videos showing this very technique for tight gas tube levers. It's been assumed the Russians did this same thing for tight fitting levers. In time it will loosen enough to move with your bare hands. Mine was the same way the first few times. Now with use it is just right.

There is a slot cut in the side of AK cleaning kits that fit in wood stocks. Use that to move the gas tube lever- you will have no problems...

+1 on this. The kit also allegedly fits in the polymer stocks. I almost could not get it out of my Kvar stock. I hear the cleaning kit fits just right in a surplus stock though.

My WASR's kit fit in its new K-var stock with no problems!

Thanks for the replies. Who sells a good AK-103 cleaning kit that will match this rifle and hopefully fit well in my K-var Warsaw length stock? Also how do I remove the cleaning rod? Do I just bend it down below the ?compensator? I don't like to use too much pressure unless I know it is normal.

Thanks,

Curt

You are supposed to remove the comp. then the rod. As for the cleaning kit, I wound up switching the one on my 107 with Sgl to make it work right.
You may have to get one of a different make to work.

How is the comp properly removed? I can see the little grey tab and assume i push down on it with something then the comp unscrews off? Also how is a bayonet properly attached?

Thanks,

Curt

Yeah. In the cleaning kit there a flat blade "screw driver" that you can use to press the plunger in and unscrew the brake. Bayonet slips over the step down on the brake and locks on to the lug on the FSB. It may be very tight at first and difficult to install and remove until the parts are broken in a bit.

ETA: reinstalling the brake - press the plugger all the way in and screw the brake all the way on, until it contacts the FSB. Then back it off until the plunger locks back into the slot. Sometimes you luck out and the brake will time just right and will thread on almost all the way to contact the FSB right as the plunger locks (might need to snug it down to fully lock). I've found that groups improve if the brake is tight, if the brake doesn't time all the way carbon buildup will tighen it after a couple hundred rounds.

I use a paint mixer as a chisel and lightly tap it with a rubber mallet and it works just fine

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