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VEPR II 7.62x39 barrel threading question???
9/10/2010 1:53:51 AM
I purchased a VEPR II 7.62x39 a few years ago. It did not come with a threaded barrel. I know that certain versions of the VEPR II come with a muzzle device on a threaded barrel, but my barrel hardly extends past the front sight assembly at all. I'd be surprised if it was one-half inch long past the front sight. Would anyone happen to know if that is enough barrel to thread for the purposes of using a suppressor?
I'm trying to find an economical way to accomplish this without having to have any major gunsmithing done. I'd be attaching a YHM muzzle brake that is also a quick detach for the suppressor, so the suppressor would not be screwing directly onto the barrel.
Does anyone have any experience with this? Does anyone have any experience putting a suppressor on a VEPR II 7.62x39 that DID originally come with a threaded barrel?
Thanks.
I'm trying to find an economical way to accomplish this without having to have any major gunsmithing done. I'd be attaching a YHM muzzle brake that is also a quick detach for the suppressor, so the suppressor would not be screwing directly onto the barrel.
Does anyone have any experience with this? Does anyone have any experience putting a suppressor on a VEPR II 7.62x39 that DID originally come with a threaded barrel?
Thanks.
10/11/2010 9:14:50 PM
Anyone? Anyone?
10/17/2010 12:25:31 PM
Have your can manufacturer or someone they recommend thread the barrel. If it's done wrong, you'll get some rub at best...strikes and a damaged can on the other end. I know, time and money. It'll end up costing you more time and money if it's half assed. 
10/17/2010 2:51:49 PM
None of the gunsmiths I've contacted will touch it. They'd have to remove the front sight assembly, which is a huge ordeal, in order to thread it. I was hoping I could get some sort of sleeve that I could slip over the end of the barrel, but the only ones I've seen are thread pitch adapters that are meant to be threaded on in the first place.
I'm at a loss.
I'm at a loss.
10/19/2010 11:42:35 PM
Originally Posted By Dreban:
None of the gunsmiths I've contacted will touch it. They'd have to remove the front sight assembly, which is a huge ordeal, in order to thread it. I was hoping I could get some sort of sleeve that I could slip over the end of the barrel, but the only ones I've seen are thread pitch adapters that are meant to be threaded on in the first place.
I'm at a loss.
None of the gunsmiths I've contacted will touch it. They'd have to remove the front sight assembly, which is a huge ordeal, in order to thread it. I was hoping I could get some sort of sleeve that I could slip over the end of the barrel, but the only ones I've seen are thread pitch adapters that are meant to be threaded on in the first place.
I'm at a loss.
Plenty of people have threaded AK barrels without removing the front sight base. If the 'smiths you talked to think otherwise, they're not experienced with AKs
If the supposed 'smiths you've contacted think removing a fsb is a "huge ordeal", they've less competent than some ameteurs I know, including me. Find a truly competent 'smith. He won't have any problem threading the barrel.
11/8/2010 4:42:35 PM
Jim at Rifle Dynamics
or
Will at Red Stick / Jacket
I have had work done from the both of them. Both Stand Up Joes...
or
Will at Red Stick / Jacket
I have had work done from the both of them. Both Stand Up Joes...
11/13/2010 8:54:18 AM
Originally Posted By Dreban:
None of the gunsmiths I've contacted will touch it. They'd have to remove the front sight assembly, which is a huge ordeal, in order to thread it. I was hoping I could get some sort of sleeve that I could slip over the end of the barrel, but the only ones I've seen are thread pitch adapters that are meant to be threaded on in the first place.
I'm at a loss.
None of the gunsmiths I've contacted will touch it. They'd have to remove the front sight assembly, which is a huge ordeal, in order to thread it. I was hoping I could get some sort of sleeve that I could slip over the end of the barrel, but the only ones I've seen are thread pitch adapters that are meant to be threaded on in the first place.
I'm at a loss.
Sounds like the ones you have contacted thus far are sissies that aren't worth their weight in shit. You will probably have to send it to someone located outside of your area.
12/12/2010 3:19:33 PM
while one can thread a barrel without removing the FSB, it is hard to do it well.
The typical die for hand threading has a taper to it, which means if you thread up to the FSB, the last few threads will be oversize. And that's assuming you've reduced the barrel diameter to the thread diameter concentrically. You can do it by hand with a lot of patience and a steady hand and careful measurements, but that would take a heck of a lot longer than doing it right.
Correct is to thread past the FSB 2-3 threads, although you can also make a relief cut removing the last couple threads, or counter-boring your muzzle device a few threads - if you don't care about retaining the original specifications.
It is critical when using any long muzzle device like a suppressor that the exit port be exactly in line with the muzzle. Failing to do so can cause baffle strikes.
I would do it by pulling the barrel, and lathe-turning to thread diameter indexing off the bore, and then threading also indexing off the bore (with pilot if doing by hand). I'm going to guess the can costs more than the barrel - certainly a bigger hassle if repairs are needed from a poorly aligned muzzle thread.
I'd decline the job too if the customer wanted a procedure that was less than the best I could do - I'll leave the halfd-ass work to those with lower standards, there is surly a market for it.
The typical die for hand threading has a taper to it, which means if you thread up to the FSB, the last few threads will be oversize. And that's assuming you've reduced the barrel diameter to the thread diameter concentrically. You can do it by hand with a lot of patience and a steady hand and careful measurements, but that would take a heck of a lot longer than doing it right.
Correct is to thread past the FSB 2-3 threads, although you can also make a relief cut removing the last couple threads, or counter-boring your muzzle device a few threads - if you don't care about retaining the original specifications.
It is critical when using any long muzzle device like a suppressor that the exit port be exactly in line with the muzzle. Failing to do so can cause baffle strikes.
I would do it by pulling the barrel, and lathe-turning to thread diameter indexing off the bore, and then threading also indexing off the bore (with pilot if doing by hand). I'm going to guess the can costs more than the barrel - certainly a bigger hassle if repairs are needed from a poorly aligned muzzle thread.
I'd decline the job too if the customer wanted a procedure that was less than the best I could do - I'll leave the halfd-ass work to those with lower standards, there is surly a market for it.
12/12/2010 11:20:56 PM
Thanks for the info. I know it's the sort of thing for a pro to do. I definitely want it done right and not risk ruining my can. Just need to find a gunsmith who is willing to removing the fsb, thread the barrel and reattaching the fsb back a bit. Sounds difficult and expensive. If it's even possible.
