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Tapco G2 trigger disconnector replacement/disassembly
3/31/2010 4:27:03 PM
I've been getting double feeds (2-rd bursts) with my AK occasionally. I called Tapco and they said to send the disconnector in for replacement if it is out of spec.
My question is: How hard is to remove the disconnector? I've never messed with trigger installation/removal. Is there a way to check to see if it is in spec while it's in place (without removing it)?
Thanks!
My question is: How hard is to remove the disconnector? I've never messed with trigger installation/removal. Is there a way to check to see if it is in spec while it's in place (without removing it)?
Thanks!
4/1/2010 8:43:22 AM
There's no way I know of to determine the depth of the hole for the disconnector spring without removing the disconnector.
Taking it out isn't difficult, if you do it correctly.
Taking it out isn't difficult, if you do it correctly.
4/2/2010 1:55:14 AM
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
There's no way I know of to determine the depth of the hole for the disconnector spring without removing the disconnector.
Taking it out isn't difficult, if you do it correctly.
There's no way I know of to determine the depth of the hole for the disconnector spring without removing the disconnector.
Taking it out isn't difficult, if you do it correctly.
Link to instructions?
4/2/2010 11:08:11 AM
Many of the online guides I've seen are incorrect.
If you have the common wire retainer ("Shepard's Hook") which is visible on the inside of the receiver on the left side, you can use the instructions for detail stripping the rifle found in the Soviet service manual. It can be found at www.box.net/shared/cu2djae1zb.
Of course your rifle doesn't have the auto sear so those instructions don't apply.
If you have the common wire retainer ("Shepard's Hook") which is visible on the inside of the receiver on the left side, you can use the instructions for detail stripping the rifle found in the Soviet service manual. It can be found at www.box.net/shared/cu2djae1zb.
Of course your rifle doesn't have the auto sear so those instructions don't apply.
4/2/2010 6:01:47 PM
4/3/2010 9:03:33 AM
That's one of the online instructions that is wrong.
It's probably contributed more to the sale of retainer plates than any thing else on earth.
4/3/2010 11:37:49 AM
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
That's one of the online instructions that is wrong.
It's probably contributed more to the sale of retainer plates than any thing else on earth.
That's one of the online instructions that is wrong.
It's probably contributed more to the sale of retainer plates than any thing else on earth.
Can you reference any instructions that are correct and don't apply to Soviet select fire weapons?
4/3/2010 12:51:37 PM
Originally Posted By FightingHellfish:
Can you reference any instructions that are correct and don't apply to Soviet select fire weapons?
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
That's one of the online instructions that is wrong.
It's probably contributed more to the sale of retainer plates than any thing else on earth.
That's one of the online instructions that is wrong.
It's probably contributed more to the sale of retainer plates than any thing else on earth.
Can you reference any instructions that are correct and don't apply to Soviet select fire weapons?
What's wrong with detail stripping the rifle the way the Soviets intended it? It's not confusing and it's much easier than struggling with the wire retainer the way most online instructions have you do it.
1. Remove the trigger and disconnector.
2. Remove the Hammer.
SKIP the removal of the auto/safety sear, since you don't have one.
3. Remove safety.
This can be done with the tools in the maintenance kit. In fact it's been done many times by poorly trained conscripts supervised by recent graduates of third rate Soviet military academies. Surely well educated Americans can perform the same task after reading the manual.
4. Reassemble in reverse order.
4/4/2010 12:51:33 AM
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
What's wrong with detail stripping the rifle the way the Soviets intended it? It's not confusing and it's much easier than struggling with the wire retainer the way most online instructions have you do it.
1. Remove the trigger and disconnector.
2. Remove the Hammer.
SKIP the removal of the auto/safety sear, since you don't have one.
3. Remove safety.
This can be done with the tools in the maintenance kit. In fact it's been done many times by poorly trained conscripts supervised by recent graduates of third rate Soviet military academies. Surely well educated Americans can perform the same task after reading the manual.
4. Reassemble in reverse order.
Originally Posted By FightingHellfish:
Can you reference any instructions that are correct and don't apply to Soviet select fire weapons?
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
That's one of the online instructions that is wrong.
It's probably contributed more to the sale of retainer plates than any thing else on earth.
That's one of the online instructions that is wrong.
It's probably contributed more to the sale of retainer plates than any thing else on earth.
Can you reference any instructions that are correct and don't apply to Soviet select fire weapons?
What's wrong with detail stripping the rifle the way the Soviets intended it? It's not confusing and it's much easier than struggling with the wire retainer the way most online instructions have you do it.
1. Remove the trigger and disconnector.
2. Remove the Hammer.
SKIP the removal of the auto/safety sear, since you don't have one.
3. Remove safety.
This can be done with the tools in the maintenance kit. In fact it's been done many times by poorly trained conscripts supervised by recent graduates of third rate Soviet military academies. Surely well educated Americans can perform the same task after reading the manual.
4. Reassemble in reverse order.
So if I understand you correctly, I don't need to remove the shepherd's hook at all? I just take a pin punch and tap out the pin on the trigger group and then pull out the trigger, leaving the hammer spring in place? If I'm replacing just the trigger (say upgrading from a KVAR trigger to a Tapco G2 on an SGL rifle), do I just leave the hammer in there? Will it then be hard to get the hammer spring back into place on the trigger?
I looked at the old AK47 manual you posted; it has words but no pictures. However, it does sound easy––too easy.
4/4/2010 9:19:59 AM
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
That's one of the online instructions that is wrong.
It's probably contributed more to the sale of retainer plates than any thing else on earth.
That's one of the online instructions that is wrong.
It's probably contributed more to the sale of retainer plates than any thing else on earth.
I've done 3 FCG groups now and this article seems to point in the right direction.
It's all common sense anyways.
<––––shrugs
4/4/2010 11:36:40 AM
Originally Posted By dgposton:
So if I understand you correctly, I don't need to remove the shepherd's hook at all? [redPer the instructions, it needs to be moved out of the groove in the pin.][/red] I just take a pin punch and tap out the pin on the trigger group[red] No.[/red] and then pull out the trigger, leaving the hammer spring in place? [red] The "legs" of the hammer/trigger spring are usually placed behind the "ears" of the hammer. however, that is not absolutely necessary. [/red] If I'm replacing just the trigger (say upgrading from a KVAR trigger to a Tapco G2 on an SGL rifle), do I just leave the hammer in there? [red]I don't recommend mixing fcg parts, due to some negative experiences with hammer follow.[/red] Will it then be hard to get the hammer spring back into place on the trigger?[red] No.[/red]
I looked at the old AK47 manual you posted; it has words but no pictures. However, it does sound easy––too easy.
So if I understand you correctly, I don't need to remove the shepherd's hook at all? [redPer the instructions, it needs to be moved out of the groove in the pin.][/red] I just take a pin punch and tap out the pin on the trigger group[red] No.[/red] and then pull out the trigger, leaving the hammer spring in place? [red] The "legs" of the hammer/trigger spring are usually placed behind the "ears" of the hammer. however, that is not absolutely necessary. [/red] If I'm replacing just the trigger (say upgrading from a KVAR trigger to a Tapco G2 on an SGL rifle), do I just leave the hammer in there? [red]I don't recommend mixing fcg parts, due to some negative experiences with hammer follow.[/red] Will it then be hard to get the hammer spring back into place on the trigger?[red] No.[/red]
I looked at the old AK47 manual you posted; it has words but no pictures. However, it does sound easy––too easy.
Detail stripping as intended is much easier than attempting to do it wrong.
In fact, putting the wire retainer in last (as recommended in most on line "guides"), is virtually impossible if it is placed correctly, so the "guide" instructs you to do it incorrectly. If you put it in incorrectly, it fails to immobilize the pins. In effect the hammer pin and trigger pin turn in the receiver.
The trigger and hammer are supposed to rotate around the pins.
4/5/2010 4:16:01 PM
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
Detail stripping as intended is much easier than attempting to do it wrong.
In fact, putting the wire retainer in last (as recommended in most on line "guides"), is virtually impossible if it is placed correctly, so the "guide" instructs you to do it incorrectly. If you put it in incorrectly, it fails to immobilize the pins. In effect the hammer pin and trigger pin turn in the receiver.
The trigger and hammer are supposed to rotate around the pins.
Originally Posted By dgposton:
So if I understand you correctly, I don't need to remove the shepherd's hook at all? [redPer the instructions, it needs to be moved out of the groove in the pin.][/red] I just take a pin punch and tap out the pin on the trigger group[red] No.[/red] and then pull out the trigger, leaving the hammer spring in place? [red] The "legs" of the hammer/trigger spring are usually placed behind the "ears" of the hammer. however, that is not absolutely necessary. [/red] If I'm replacing just the trigger (say upgrading from a KVAR trigger to a Tapco G2 on an SGL rifle), do I just leave the hammer in there? [red]I don't recommend mixing fcg parts, due to some negative experiences with hammer follow.[/red] Will it then be hard to get the hammer spring back into place on the trigger?[red] No.[/red]
I looked at the old AK47 manual you posted; it has words but no pictures. However, it does sound easy––too easy.
So if I understand you correctly, I don't need to remove the shepherd's hook at all? [redPer the instructions, it needs to be moved out of the groove in the pin.][/red] I just take a pin punch and tap out the pin on the trigger group[red] No.[/red] and then pull out the trigger, leaving the hammer spring in place? [red] The "legs" of the hammer/trigger spring are usually placed behind the "ears" of the hammer. however, that is not absolutely necessary. [/red] If I'm replacing just the trigger (say upgrading from a KVAR trigger to a Tapco G2 on an SGL rifle), do I just leave the hammer in there? [red]I don't recommend mixing fcg parts, due to some negative experiences with hammer follow.[/red] Will it then be hard to get the hammer spring back into place on the trigger?[red] No.[/red]
I looked at the old AK47 manual you posted; it has words but no pictures. However, it does sound easy––too easy.
Detail stripping as intended is much easier than attempting to do it wrong.
In fact, putting the wire retainer in last (as recommended in most on line "guides"), is virtually impossible if it is placed correctly, so the "guide" instructs you to do it incorrectly. If you put it in incorrectly, it fails to immobilize the pins. In effect the hammer pin and trigger pin turn in the receiver.
The trigger and hammer are supposed to rotate around the pins.
So what's the right way to do it? Do I simply start tapping out the pins with the shepherd's crook in place?
4/18/2010 5:18:54 PM
You can go to the Topco web site - to their support page and look at the instructions for installing their triggers - it has usefil instruction on assembly and disassembly. I put in a trigger following them and I am no gunsmith.
www.tapco.com/support/supportPI_ak.php
www.tapco.com/support/supportPI_ak.php
