WASR 10/63 GP failure to eject + double feed = mess
My Romanian WASR 10 experienced many, many problems yesterday at the range. Its kinda sad that my AR-15 (after an extractor upgrade) functioned better.
I got several stovepipes + double feeds yesterday while using TAPCO 30rd magazines. I recall having a few problems with a Romanian steel mag as well. It seems like the brass isn't getting ejected fast enough and the next round popping up out of the magazine is getting pushed up too early (maybe?). I had a few spent shell casings get caught by the action and get shredded, squished, or jammed up.
This would have gotten me killed in combat. I can't believe my AK is acting this way.
Has it always acted like this, or is this new behavior?
How about some pics of your extractor? When did you scrub the bolt face and extractor last?
What kind of ammo are you using?
Are you running a recoil buffer? Have you made any modifications to the rifle?
Has the rifle been cleaned and lubricated on a regular basis?
How many rounds do you have through the rifle? My WASR required a couple hundred rounds to break-in. Some folks report similar events, others run fine out of the box.
First things first. Did you clean the rifle throughly, twice, before you ever fired it?
If not, is it full of preservative?
The rifle had been fire two times prior to the start of this problem. I mean fired twice as in two range trips, about 200rds per trip. No modifications have been made. I cleaned the weapon thoroughly upon purchase. The weapon has been well cleaned after each range trip. I had a few stovepipes and doublefeeds on the second range trip.
Ammo: Wolf MC, Yugo M67, Soviet steel core surplus
I had malfunctions with multiple ammo types and magazines. Mags were Tapco 30rd and a metal Romanian 30rd. The weapon hadn't had too many rounds (maybe 30) before the first malfunction.
I broke down the extractor and found it was full of cosmoline gunk and cleaned it out but havent had a chance to get back to the range yet. The extractor can be moved with my fingers with a little effort. Is this too loose?
I have read of solutions to this problems being an upgraded spring, is this a good idea? A Wolff?
Originally Posted By DaveyJonesLockerUSN:
I cleaned the weapon thoroughly upon purchase.
I broke down the extractor and found it was full of cosmoline gunk and cleaned it out
These two statements are mutually exclusive.
If you cleaned the rifle throughly upon purchase, you wouldn't be finding preservative in the extractor after the rifle malfunctioned.
The Romanians cover these rifles with a thick coating of preservative before they ship them.
It is imperative that you get it all out.
If you don't it can cause malfunctions.
Sorry, I should have been more clear. I broke down the bolt and extractor after three range trips and the start of problems. It is now clean enough you could eat off of it. How tight should the extractor be, and where can I get an upgraded spring? The weapon will extract and eject live rounds and throw them several feet.
Originally Posted By DaveyJonesLockerUSN:
Sorry, I should have been more clear. I broke down the bolt and extractor after three range trips and the start of problems. It is now clean enough you could eat off of it. How tight should the extractor be, The best answer I can give you is that the extractor moves under pressure from my index finger, which isn't much help.and where can I get an upgraded spring? The weapon will extract and eject live rounds and throw them several feet.
It's quite likely that you've solved the problem by cleaning the preservative out of the extractor. I suggest you shoot the rifle before buying a stronger spring.
Here's a quick update: I used an empty shell casing and a live round and tried to function test the bolt/ejector/extractor.
The empty casing gets thrown just a few inches out and forward of the chamber.
The live round gets thrown several feet to the rear and right of the chamber when ejected.
I was racking the action quickly and letting it slam home, not riding it.
I noticed this one piece of uneven wear on the bolt where it meets the gas piston. Note: There is about an inch of wear (non-black) on the left side of the bolt before it meets the piston. The bullet is pointing to to wear. Is this a problem?
ETA: I can manually put a bullet in the chamber with my fingers, turn the weapon barrel side up, and the bullet will fall out of the chamber. There are no burrs, corrosion, or anything else in the chamber. It is clean and I believe to be chrome lined (the barrel is anyway)
Your gas block may be canted. When combined with Century's method of solidly mounting the piston, that can cause that part of the bolt carrier to rub the rear sight base.
I've seen WASRs run with this condition. OTOH, your's might be canted more than those and that MIGHT be contributing to the problem.
At this point, the best thing to do is to shoot the rifle and see what happens. Hand cycling simply can't always tell you how the rifle will work when it's fired.
I contacted Century this morning and got an RMA for returning the weapon. I will update the thread when I know more, thanks for the inputs.
Do you have contact information for Century?
I picked up two WASR10/63's in October. An underfolder and full stock, got to the range finally with them tuesday and could barely get them to fire.
Wood stock WASR would get the bolt locked up to the point I had to pound it open, it would fail to pull a round out of the mag and close on an empty chamber, sometimes the round would hand up and not feed into the barrel. Each type of failure happened multiple times with 4 mags I had. 3 steel surplus and a tapco.
The underfolder would also fail to fully go into battery, i'd have to pound the charging handle to get it to fully seat.
Both have mag wobble, so I think the mag wells are fucked up on both. Needless to say I was pretty pissed off that two new AK's couldnt even get through 5rds without locking up. At least the sights are straight, they shot fairly accurate when they'd function.
I as shooting brass cased FMJ, the yugo stuff I believe. I hope I dont have to pay to ship these back and forth, im pretty pissed with Century right now. I've had a SAR1 and WASR 10 in the past and they all ran fine, these two dont even work.