Archived Posts » 59,789,155
Cant sight on WASR 10
4/26/2009 2:49:57 PM
How do i fix cant sight on the WASR10, barrel change will fix the problem?
4/26/2009 4:55:38 PM
Barrel change is not needed.
Here's some info on sight cant and how to fix it yourself:
First, the Romanian AK site:
http://www.gunsnet.net/linx310/
Read the links on the left on "Identifying Cant: and farther down "Straightening a Canted FSB".
Basically, you drive out the FSB pins, tap the base straight, then drill and install slightly larger pins.
The only "look outs" are to be sure you don't drift off with the drill bit when drilling the new pin holes. Remember, the idea is to drill new grooves in the barrel, NOT drill out the FSB holes crooked or even larger than really needed.
Here's some info on sight cant and how to fix it yourself:
First, the Romanian AK site:
http://www.gunsnet.net/linx310/
Read the links on the left on "Identifying Cant: and farther down "Straightening a Canted FSB".
Basically, you drive out the FSB pins, tap the base straight, then drill and install slightly larger pins.
The only "look outs" are to be sure you don't drift off with the drill bit when drilling the new pin holes. Remember, the idea is to drill new grooves in the barrel, NOT drill out the FSB holes crooked or even larger than really needed.
9/30/2009 7:50:03 AM
This link doesnt work:
http://www.gunsnet.net/linx310/
I keep getting
Forbidden
You don't have permission to access /linx310/ on this server.
Anyone have a working link?
Thanks
http://www.gunsnet.net/linx310/
I keep getting
Forbidden
You don't have permission to access /linx310/ on this server.
Anyone have a working link?
Thanks
9/30/2009 9:55:01 AM
looks like the site is down?
9/30/2009 3:05:40 PM
Sites down. Give it a couple of days.
Until then, here's some basic instruction on front sight support cant.
You basically eyeball the front sight assembly to determine if the sight support is tilted or canted to one side. Compare the sight assembly to the flats of the receiver or other barrel parts.
If it is tilted, you can fix it yourself, or send it back to the importer for repair.
To fix it, put the disassembled rifle on hard wood support blocks in a no bounce-no move setup.
If the rifle moves or bounces the pins may be difficult to remove.
Get a good pin punch and cut it off to about a 1/2" working length. This is called a "starter punch". The short length prevents the punch from flexing or bending and directs all the force to the pins. Once the pins are moving out, switch to a standard length punch to remove them.
Give the front sight assembly a good shot of a penetrating lube like Kroil or commercial penetrating fluid. Soak the joint between the barrel and the support and let it soak over night.
Drive the two front sight support pins out from LEFT to RIGHT, as you'd sight down the barrel, using the hard wood block to support the rifle.
Use a rubber, brass, or rawhide mallet to move the sight over until its straight. These supports can be very resistant to moving so you may have to hit it hard. DO NOT hit it so hard that the front sight bends, deforms or breaks. Hit ONLY below the "ears" of the sight. You can brace the barrel on blocks and use a large brass or nylon drift to hit the support under the ears.
If it refuses to move, you can warm the barrel with a torch.
DO NOT OVERHEAT. WARM, not red hot. Then while its hot bump it over.
Once you have the sight properly aligned, use a drill to re-drill the barrel. As above, the idea is to drill/cut new slots in the barrel for the pins, not drill out the holes larger. Careful to not allow the drill to drift off
Once you have the holes re-drilled, drive in new pins made of drill rod and cut to length.
Until then, here's some basic instruction on front sight support cant.
You basically eyeball the front sight assembly to determine if the sight support is tilted or canted to one side. Compare the sight assembly to the flats of the receiver or other barrel parts.
If it is tilted, you can fix it yourself, or send it back to the importer for repair.
To fix it, put the disassembled rifle on hard wood support blocks in a no bounce-no move setup.
If the rifle moves or bounces the pins may be difficult to remove.
Get a good pin punch and cut it off to about a 1/2" working length. This is called a "starter punch". The short length prevents the punch from flexing or bending and directs all the force to the pins. Once the pins are moving out, switch to a standard length punch to remove them.
Give the front sight assembly a good shot of a penetrating lube like Kroil or commercial penetrating fluid. Soak the joint between the barrel and the support and let it soak over night.
Drive the two front sight support pins out from LEFT to RIGHT, as you'd sight down the barrel, using the hard wood block to support the rifle.
Use a rubber, brass, or rawhide mallet to move the sight over until its straight. These supports can be very resistant to moving so you may have to hit it hard. DO NOT hit it so hard that the front sight bends, deforms or breaks. Hit ONLY below the "ears" of the sight. You can brace the barrel on blocks and use a large brass or nylon drift to hit the support under the ears.
If it refuses to move, you can warm the barrel with a torch.
DO NOT OVERHEAT. WARM, not red hot. Then while its hot bump it over.
Once you have the sight properly aligned, use a drill to re-drill the barrel. As above, the idea is to drill/cut new slots in the barrel for the pins, not drill out the holes larger. Careful to not allow the drill to drift off
Once you have the holes re-drilled, drive in new pins made of drill rod and cut to length.
10/11/2009 1:46:15 AM
Have done it before and it can be a pain in the ass to get the pins out.
One trick I saw on another AK thread is after the pins are out( and the fsb has soaked in oil for a while) is to get a deep well socket and using a dremel tool cut a slot along the length of the socket allowing it to slide over the fsb.
Then clamp the gun into one, or two vices that are aligned, using wood or aluminum barrel blocks. You can then slip the socket over the fsb and use a drive ratchet to torque the fsb over. Try marking where the fsb is in relation to the barrel so you will know how much progress you have made. It dosen't take much fsb correction to make a difference in the point of impact. You want to torque the fsb in the direction of the bullet holes on the target. Example: if its shooting to the left then you want to move the fsb to the left. i.e. chase the bullet holes.
One trick I saw on another AK thread is after the pins are out( and the fsb has soaked in oil for a while) is to get a deep well socket and using a dremel tool cut a slot along the length of the socket allowing it to slide over the fsb.
Then clamp the gun into one, or two vices that are aligned, using wood or aluminum barrel blocks. You can then slip the socket over the fsb and use a drive ratchet to torque the fsb over. Try marking where the fsb is in relation to the barrel so you will know how much progress you have made. It dosen't take much fsb correction to make a difference in the point of impact. You want to torque the fsb in the direction of the bullet holes on the target. Example: if its shooting to the left then you want to move the fsb to the left. i.e. chase the bullet holes.
