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Carbon build up on my gas piston and removing my muzzel break
8/27/2009 7:24:35 PM
I have a fair amount of actual carbon on the end of the piston. Is there anything wrong with using a wire wheel to remove it? Also, I can't remove the slant break that is on my rifle. I is definately not welded in place. I don know they are left handed threads and that I have to depress the plunger on the sight block.
8/27/2009 8:17:35 PM
"anything wrong with using a wire wheel to remove"
YES.
The military pistons are hard chrome plated. Scraping with steel or wire brushing will damage the plating and the piston will foul even worst.
Commercial pistons are stainless. Wire brushing can round off the sharp forward edge of the piston and scratch it up also.
To clean the piston, you can scrap with a scraper made from BRASS. With a real brass cartridge case with the mouth smashed shut and sharpened or a piece of brass sheet made into a scraper.
A real easy method is to buy a "lead-away" type cloth from the gun store.
This is a heavy cloth that's used to wipe leading and carbon off STAINLESS or hard chrome guns.
Simply wipe the piston with the cloth and the carbon comes right off.
(NEVER use these on a blued or painted gun. It also peels bluing and gun coatings right off).
YES.
The military pistons are hard chrome plated. Scraping with steel or wire brushing will damage the plating and the piston will foul even worst.
Commercial pistons are stainless. Wire brushing can round off the sharp forward edge of the piston and scratch it up also.
To clean the piston, you can scrap with a scraper made from BRASS. With a real brass cartridge case with the mouth smashed shut and sharpened or a piece of brass sheet made into a scraper.
A real easy method is to buy a "lead-away" type cloth from the gun store.
This is a heavy cloth that's used to wipe leading and carbon off STAINLESS or hard chrome guns.
Simply wipe the piston with the cloth and the carbon comes right off.
(NEVER use these on a blued or painted gun. It also peels bluing and gun coatings right off).
8/27/2009 8:56:32 PM
A little carbon on the piston isn't a problem. As dfariswheel said though, if you're gonna try to scrape it off, just be sure to use something soft to do it with.
8/28/2009 8:14:54 AM
Empty .38 Special case.
8/28/2009 10:02:21 PM
just use a brass wire wheel, you'll be fine. many cleanings later i don't have any pistons that have lost their mojo.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93467&xcamp=google&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc&zmam=33951326&zmas=12&zmac=112&zmap=93467
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93467&xcamp=google&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc&zmam=33951326&zmas=12&zmac=112&zmap=93467
8/29/2009 8:09:07 AM
Don't forget that you can use the combination tool in the EG cleaning kit to remove the carbon from the grooves. Apparently the E Germans thought that the hard chrome on the piston was harder than mild steel.
9/4/2009 2:51:58 PM
Better living through chemistry: Try M-Pro7 Gun Cleaner. It does a great job on the forcing cone of my revolver.
9/8/2009 2:06:12 PM
To answer your 2nd question about removing the brake, there should be a small pin that you have to press in to start unscrewing the brake. And it is back-asswards 
as in righty loosy, lefty tighty
as in righty loosy, lefty tighty9/17/2009 8:38:52 PM
dont they take a handful of dirt and while holding it in your hand twist the piston and dirt until clean
9/29/2009 10:09:15 PM
Originally Posted By Mikegigabyte:
dont they take a handful of dirt and while holding it in your hand twist the piston and dirt until clean
dont they take a handful of dirt and while holding it in your hand twist the piston and dirt until clean
Cheap and easy, and environmentally friendly! I love it. Just make sure there's no rocks or pebbles in the dirt.
Hows about a wet scotch pad sponge (blue).
9/29/2009 10:20:14 PM
You are better off leaving the carbon on than using abrasives.
10/29/2009 9:30:44 AM
Originally Posted By strat81:
Better living through chemistry: Try M-Pro7 Gun Cleaner. It does a great job on the forcing cone of my revolver.
Better living through chemistry: Try M-Pro7 Gun Cleaner. It does a great job on the forcing cone of my revolver.
+1 on MPro 7. Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner would work too. I've also seen people use Flitz Metal Polish for that purpose.
10/29/2009 10:54:46 AM
It's a frackin AK! It's not meant to be kept perfectly clean. Been using them for 40 years, it's fine. Leave the brake alone. It protects the crown.
I've never had to remove one, ever.
I might clean one after 1k rounds usually 2k.
I have one that has not been cleaned in 10 years, works just fine.
I've never had to remove one, ever.
I might clean one after 1k rounds usually 2k. I have one that has not been cleaned in 10 years, works just fine.
12/2/2009 5:06:16 PM
I use hoppes, and a piece of synthetic steel wool for this. Wet, squeeze, and twist. Done and sparkly in 10 seconds, and it's plastic, no abrasive.
Works on an AR15 bolt nipple too.
––Fargo007
Works on an AR15 bolt nipple too.
––Fargo007
12/2/2009 11:08:53 PM
Actually, there are abrasives embedded in the plastic.
12/3/2009 8:44:36 PM
Since I just got my SGL 20 and have noticed after one shooting where the fouling is, I believe I can use the same cleaning procedure I use to clean my AR bolt/carrier group. 1 part CLP and roughly 6-8 parts oderless mineral spirits. Wipe down all parts quickly with flannel/paper/old shirt cloth, then set them in a rectangular tray with the CLP/OMS solution (or a big ziploc bag) for a good 15-30 minutes while you clean the rifle action and barrel.. Take out the parts, blow them off with compressed air, lube and assemble gun.
The carbon buildup on an AR15 bolt near the gas rings is pretty much the same carbon buildup on the piston head, so the solution will pull that away nicely no doubt..especially if the surface is chromed!
What's nice is that this solution is cheap, and lasts many, many times..until the solution turns pure black and get's thick. You can also just let the solution settle and all the sediment will go to the bottom, then pour off the top part, then add a little more CLP/OMS and you're good to go. Store the solution in a mason jar until each cleaning. There's little fouling OMS can't break up in 30 minutes..the CLP is just to keep a little oil and solvent to the base.
The carbon buildup on an AR15 bolt near the gas rings is pretty much the same carbon buildup on the piston head, so the solution will pull that away nicely no doubt..especially if the surface is chromed!
What's nice is that this solution is cheap, and lasts many, many times..until the solution turns pure black and get's thick. You can also just let the solution settle and all the sediment will go to the bottom, then pour off the top part, then add a little more CLP/OMS and you're good to go. Store the solution in a mason jar until each cleaning. There's little fouling OMS can't break up in 30 minutes..the CLP is just to keep a little oil and solvent to the base.
