Archived Posts » 59,821,464
Installing rails.
1/26/2012 6:52:20 AM
Got around to spot welding my rail on my P/U folder....
H/F 110 spot welder....Been used 3 times.
AK spot welding tong is a MUST! in my book.
1/4in drill bit for the left side, and 15/64 for the right.
My 1st build.....
Took 9months to build.....
.....But it shoot like a dream....My son shoots it more then the AR..
H/F 110 spot welder....Been used 3 times.
AK spot welding tong is a MUST! in my book.
1/4in drill bit for the left side, and 15/64 for the right.
My 1st build.....
Took 9months to build.....
.....But it shoot like a dream....My son shoots it more then the AR..
1/26/2012 12:12:52 PM
9 months seems to be about right. That's how long it took us to build our first from folding the flats all the way to getting it assembled (and we were building 1-2 a week). It also seems to be how long it took my wife to have a child. Maybe that's why the AKs I have built feel more like children to me. And I have to say, damn sexy build! Say that about one of my daughters in my presence and I may have to go back to prison. 
1/26/2012 12:48:25 PM
I get less crap from my guns than from my children.... I wish it took me a month or more to build one.... In a week I have one built and only a couple of hours every day... Dammit I have to make more kids they take longer. Nahhhhh guns are easier to afford. Only thing I can stress on using the spot welder is sand and clean the contact points before each use and order an extra lower tang or screw contact point since that is the only part that wears out......and depending on your welder it takes about three to five seconds or counts per weld.
1/26/2012 1:54:46 PM
Originally Posted By PDshooter:
Got around to spot welding my rail on my P/U folder....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/PDshooter/Polish%20AK/Spotwelds002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/PDshooter/Polish%20AK/Spotwelds004.jpg
H/F 110 spot welder....Been used 3 times.
AK spot welding tong is a MUST! in my book.
1/4in drill bit for the left side, and 15/64 for the right.
My 1st build.....http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/PDshooter/AK47/AK47002-1.jpg
Took 9months to build..........But it shoot like a dream....My son shoots it more then the AR..
Got around to spot welding my rail on my P/U folder....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/PDshooter/Polish%20AK/Spotwelds002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/PDshooter/Polish%20AK/Spotwelds004.jpg
H/F 110 spot welder....Been used 3 times.
AK spot welding tong is a MUST! in my book.
1/4in drill bit for the left side, and 15/64 for the right.
My 1st build.....http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/PDshooter/AK47/AK47002-1.jpg
Took 9months to build.....
.....But it shoot like a dream....My son shoots it more then the AR..Nice stick... what's going on with the muzzle device? Is that a slant brake pointing 90 degrees to the right?
1/26/2012 7:34:17 PM
Question
Why two different size drill bits?
Why two different size drill bits?
1/26/2012 7:42:14 PM
Originally Posted By country_boy87:
Question
Why two different size drill bits?
Question
Why two different size drill bits?
cause one rail sits higher than the other.
1/26/2012 11:25:16 PM
Originally Posted By GlockA-Molee:
The top of the optic rail should be parallel with the top rail of the receiver. .
The top of the optic rail should be parallel with the top rail of the receiver. .
Doing this doesn't always work, it will only work if you have the receiver riveted perfectly.
If your receiver is just a slight bit off you won't get enough adjustment out of your scope.
The way to do it and get it right the first time is to do the middle rivet first. When you mount it be sure it will rock just a little front to rear on that rivet. Put your scope on the mount & slide it onto the rail, take it to a range & fire a few rounds through it while sitting on a rest. Rock the rail & scope mount front to rear to get it shooting as close as you can, then scribe a line down the bottom of the rail. When you get back to the shop you can locate the rail in the same place you had it shooting right at the range, that is where you need to drill for the front & back rivets.
This is the way I mounted the rail on my AK74 & it will hit the gongs 400yds away.
1/27/2012 1:12:34 AM
Originally Posted By Paintballer:
Doing this doesn't always work, it will only work if you have the receiver riveted perfectly.
If your receiver is just a slight bit off you won't get enough adjustment out of your scope.
The way to do it and get it right the first time is to do the middle rivet first. When you mount it be sure it will rock just a little front to rear on that rivet. Put your scope on the mount & slide it onto the rail, take it to a range & fire a few rounds through it while sitting on a rest. Rock the rail & scope mount front to rear to get it shooting as close as you can, then scribe a line down the bottom of the rail. When you get back to the shop you can locate the rail in the same place you had it shooting right at the range, that is where you need to drill for the front & back rivets.
This is the way I mounted the rail on my AK74 & it will hit the gongs 400yds away.
Originally Posted By GlockA-Molee:
The top of the optic rail should be parallel with the top rail of the receiver. .
The top of the optic rail should be parallel with the top rail of the receiver. .
Doing this doesn't always work, it will only work if you have the receiver riveted perfectly.
If your receiver is just a slight bit off you won't get enough adjustment out of your scope.
The way to do it and get it right the first time is to do the middle rivet first. When you mount it be sure it will rock just a little front to rear on that rivet. Put your scope on the mount & slide it onto the rail, take it to a range & fire a few rounds through it while sitting on a rest. Rock the rail & scope mount front to rear to get it shooting as close as you can, then scribe a line down the bottom of the rail. When you get back to the shop you can locate the rail in the same place you had it shooting right at the range, that is where you need to drill for the front & back rivets.
This is the way I mounted the rail on my AK74 & it will hit the gongs 400yds away.
Or the way I do it is using a bore sighter and a PSO scope. This takes less trips to the range and has worked very well when minor adjustments were needed for windage as well as elevation.
1/27/2012 10:39:30 AM
Will install frt trunion next....
1/27/2012 11:36:41 AM
Did I mentioned how sexy that looks?
As for building, while it certainly took us nine months for our first successfully completed build now we do them in 1-2 nights (2 if we have to heat treat a receiver, we anneal it for almost a day using the sand method).
As for building, while it certainly took us nine months for our first successfully completed build now we do them in 1-2 nights (2 if we have to heat treat a receiver, we anneal it for almost a day using the sand method).
1/27/2012 11:54:07 AM
I have never heat treated the whole reciever just the areas like the pin holes and both safety holes and also the rails with a torch and a oil and water mixture. I normally heat the steel up till its nice and cherry red then let it take a dip in the mixture the clean and start again. but only thing I can say is if you don't want any pits in your welds make sure you clean the contact points well or sand them down before you start your spot welds..
