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Air Hammer to Press in Barrel?
12/3/2011 10:22:59 PM
I seem to remember seeing pictures of someone pressing a trunnion onto a barrel with an air hammer. Has anyone here used that method? If so how effective do you find it? I'm going to be helping put together a PSL kit but I don't think the barrel/receiver will fit in my 20 ton press (at least not easily!).
12/3/2011 10:28:56 PM
You don't need an air hammer, just a hand held hammer.
I pressed a barrel into a riveted trunion with a block of 2x4 and a hammer with the butt stock on the concrete.
It's an AK, just oil it up and wack it into the right spot. Just go slow so you don't bend anything.
I pressed a barrel into a riveted trunion with a block of 2x4 and a hammer with the butt stock on the concrete.
It's an AK, just oil it up and wack it into the right spot. Just go slow so you don't bend anything.
12/3/2011 10:38:22 PM
it should fit.
Originally Posted By Rich219:
I seem to remember seeing pictures of someone pressing a trunnion onto a barrel with an air hammer. Has anyone here used that method? If so how effective do you find it? I'm going to be helping put together a PSL kit but I don't think the barrel/receiver will fit in my 20 ton press (at least not easily!).
I seem to remember seeing pictures of someone pressing a trunnion onto a barrel with an air hammer. Has anyone here used that method? If so how effective do you find it? I'm going to be helping put together a PSL kit but I don't think the barrel/receiver will fit in my 20 ton press (at least not easily!).
12/3/2011 10:41:05 PM
Originally Posted By Rich219:
I seem to remember seeing pictures of someone pressing a trunnion onto a barrel with an air hammer. Has anyone here used that method? If so how effective do you find it? I'm going to be helping put together a PSL kit but I don't think the barrel/receiver will fit in my 20 ton press (at least not easily!).
I seem to remember seeing pictures of someone pressing a trunnion onto a barrel with an air hammer. Has anyone here used that method? If so how effective do you find it? I'm going to be helping put together a PSL kit but I don't think the barrel/receiver will fit in my 20 ton press (at least not easily!).
Sounds like a really bad idea.
There has got to be a way that you can use your press, even if you need to fabricate something.
12/4/2011 12:50:01 AM
If you have a press, it shouldn't be that hard and is certain to work. I agree, our PSL builds were a bit large for our press but we did it. 
12/4/2011 8:39:58 AM
Use the "all-thread" method to install the barrel. It is easy and allows precise installation for head-spacing.
There are multiple posts and tutorials on this and other forums.
This is the only method I have ever used, and it has worked flawlessly for me. It also works well for barrel "jewelry".
There are multiple posts and tutorials on this and other forums.
This is the only method I have ever used, and it has worked flawlessly for me. It also works well for barrel "jewelry".
12/4/2011 9:04:37 AM
Yes, go with the "all-thread" method to press in your barrel on the PSL.
This is the only way I press barrels in all of my 7.62 builds.
I use the 1/4x28 grade 8 all-thread not the 1/4x20 it gives a much smoother press to the barrels, I can actually press in barrels using only one finger without any popping or jumping.
Here is a link to see it if you are interested.
http://www.gunco.net/forums/f3/amazing-allthread-barrel-press-37833/
This is the only way I press barrels in all of my 7.62 builds.
I use the 1/4x28 grade 8 all-thread not the 1/4x20 it gives a much smoother press to the barrels, I can actually press in barrels using only one finger without any popping or jumping.
Here is a link to see it if you are interested.
http://www.gunco.net/forums/f3/amazing-allthread-barrel-press-37833/
12/4/2011 9:52:16 AM
Originally Posted By BillofRights:
Sounds like a really bad idea.
There has got to be a way that you can use your press, even if you need to fabricate something.
Originally Posted By Rich219:
I seem to remember seeing pictures of someone pressing a trunnion onto a barrel with an air hammer. Has anyone here used that method? If so how effective do you find it? I'm going to be helping put together a PSL kit but I don't think the barrel/receiver will fit in my 20 ton press (at least not easily!).
I seem to remember seeing pictures of someone pressing a trunnion onto a barrel with an air hammer. Has anyone here used that method? If so how effective do you find it? I'm going to be helping put together a PSL kit but I don't think the barrel/receiver will fit in my 20 ton press (at least not easily!).
Sounds like a really bad idea.
There has got to be a way that you can use your press, even if you need to fabricate something.
Run that by Gunplumber, I think you may fine he has a different opinion.
12/4/2011 12:19:56 PM
Originally Posted By crashlanding:
Run that by Gunplumber, I think you may fine he has a different opinion.
Originally Posted By BillofRights:
Sounds like a really bad idea.
There has got to be a way that you can use your press, even if you need to fabricate something.
Originally Posted By Rich219:
I seem to remember seeing pictures of someone pressing a trunnion onto a barrel with an air hammer. Has anyone here used that method? If so how effective do you find it? I'm going to be helping put together a PSL kit but I don't think the barrel/receiver will fit in my 20 ton press (at least not easily!).
I seem to remember seeing pictures of someone pressing a trunnion onto a barrel with an air hammer. Has anyone here used that method? If so how effective do you find it? I'm going to be helping put together a PSL kit but I don't think the barrel/receiver will fit in my 20 ton press (at least not easily!).
Sounds like a really bad idea.
There has got to be a way that you can use your press, even if you need to fabricate something.
Run that by Gunplumber, I think you may fine he has a different opinion.
I'm pretty sure Gunplumber uses pneumatic tools a lot in his builds.
12/5/2011 12:29:37 PM
I used a stainless 1/4" all-thread that i got from the bin at home depot to press in a barrel on a romy g kit.
Strip the bolt carrier and use that to pull against. I also used a few copper washers up front so it didn't mar the crown at all.
It went on much easier than i expected it would.
If i ever do it again that is without a doubt how i would do it.
ETA Made Hot
All thread Barrel Press
Strip the bolt carrier and use that to pull against. I also used a few copper washers up front so it didn't mar the crown at all.
It went on much easier than i expected it would.
If i ever do it again that is without a doubt how i would do it.
ETA Made Hot
All thread Barrel Press
12/9/2011 3:24:10 PM
I think you can get a little more precise with an all thread than a press.. I have used both but I find the press much easier its just harder if you got to far and have to back it up....Personally I wouldn't use a air hammer but thats only one mans view.....
12/10/2011 9:05:04 AM
12/10/2011 10:22:28 AM
Interesting method!
12/10/2011 2:22:16 PM
Originally Posted By Rich219:
Interesting method!
Interesting method!
That is not actually the clamp I use.
The one I use is a pipe type clamp with one of the pressing surfaces ground so I can press a barrel into a riveted trunion.
12/10/2011 6:23:19 PM
I'm sorry, but that's awesome! I have dozens of clamps like that and never once thought of doing that. Just another example of the intuitiveness of these builders!
12/12/2011 6:40:05 PM
I don't think pressing a barrel in from the muzzle is a good idea. Even with the muzzle protected by a copper interface, they still aren't hard to bend. If I were to use a press, I'd find a way to have it sleeve the barrel and have the contact at the taper just in front of the rear trunion journal . . . of course, this means barrels with all the components on them won't work . ..
I tried the all-thread, but after breaking several , went with the air-hammer. My friend Mark (big 50) broke his hand many years ago and had to find a way to do a lot of shop tasks with one hand. He used air hammers in his other business (heavy equipment repair) so adapted them to gun work. I took his basic idea and ran with it. There is something about the vibration created by the air hammer that makes parts move much easier than the same total force applied with a press.
A few points - this is not your $20 harbor-freight air hammer with two settings: bash and off. This is a $125-$150 3x or 4x, tickle trigger, aircraft riveting hammer. I can adjust it anywhere from delicate tap to bash.
This method requires you sacrifice a bolt carrier. Try it with your original bolt carrier, and when you see why not, you'll have a perfect (ruined) bolt carrier for the job.
http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/notes/notesak/ak47build/pageak47build.shtml#anchor9
I tried the all-thread, but after breaking several , went with the air-hammer. My friend Mark (big 50) broke his hand many years ago and had to find a way to do a lot of shop tasks with one hand. He used air hammers in his other business (heavy equipment repair) so adapted them to gun work. I took his basic idea and ran with it. There is something about the vibration created by the air hammer that makes parts move much easier than the same total force applied with a press.
A few points - this is not your $20 harbor-freight air hammer with two settings: bash and off. This is a $125-$150 3x or 4x, tickle trigger, aircraft riveting hammer. I can adjust it anywhere from delicate tap to bash.
This method requires you sacrifice a bolt carrier. Try it with your original bolt carrier, and when you see why not, you'll have a perfect (ruined) bolt carrier for the job.
http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/notes/notesak/ak47build/pageak47build.shtml#anchor9
12/12/2011 11:04:25 PM
Originally Posted By Gunplumber:
I don't think pressing a barrel in from the muzzle is a good idea. Even with the muzzle protected by a copper interface, they still aren't hard to bend. If I were to use a press, I'd find a way to have it sleeve the barrel and have the contact at the taper just in front of the rear trunion journal . . . of course, this means barrels with all the components on them won't work . ..
I tried the all-thread, but after breaking several , went with the air-hammer. My friend Mark (big 50) broke his hand many years ago and had to find a way to do a lot of shop tasks with one hand. He used air hammers in his other business (heavy equipment repair) so adapted them to gun work. I took his basic idea and ran with it. There is something about the vibration created by the air hammer that makes parts move much easier than the same total force applied with a press.
A few points - this is not your $20 harbor-freight air hammer with two settings: bash and off. This is a $125-$150 3x or 4x, tickle trigger, aircraft riveting hammer. I can adjust it anywhere from delicate tap to bash.
This method requires you sacrifice a bolt carrier. Try it with your original bolt carrier, and when you see why not, you'll have a perfect (ruined) bolt carrier for the job.
http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/notes/notesak/ak47build/pageak47build.shtml#anchor9
I don't think pressing a barrel in from the muzzle is a good idea. Even with the muzzle protected by a copper interface, they still aren't hard to bend. If I were to use a press, I'd find a way to have it sleeve the barrel and have the contact at the taper just in front of the rear trunion journal . . . of course, this means barrels with all the components on them won't work . ..
I tried the all-thread, but after breaking several , went with the air-hammer. My friend Mark (big 50) broke his hand many years ago and had to find a way to do a lot of shop tasks with one hand. He used air hammers in his other business (heavy equipment repair) so adapted them to gun work. I took his basic idea and ran with it. There is something about the vibration created by the air hammer that makes parts move much easier than the same total force applied with a press.
A few points - this is not your $20 harbor-freight air hammer with two settings: bash and off. This is a $125-$150 3x or 4x, tickle trigger, aircraft riveting hammer. I can adjust it anywhere from delicate tap to bash.
This method requires you sacrifice a bolt carrier. Try it with your original bolt carrier, and when you see why not, you'll have a perfect (ruined) bolt carrier for the job.
http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/notes/notesak/ak47build/pageak47build.shtml#anchor9
Any specific rivet guns you would recommend? I'm not very familiar with them but what does 3x or 4x mean?
12/12/2011 11:48:49 PM
ACAT from TheYardStore.com
3x is good for most things - riveting, most barrels. If you only have one, the 3x is the one. the 4X is heavier duty - longer "throw" on the cylinder. It is harder to use gentler, if that makes sense. I use a 4x for stubborn parts.
3x is good for most things - riveting, most barrels. If you only have one, the 3x is the one. the 4X is heavier duty - longer "throw" on the cylinder. It is harder to use gentler, if that makes sense. I use a 4x for stubborn parts.
12/14/2011 11:38:31 PM
I use a Deutsch recoilless 5x for most things. The recoilless sure makes a big difference as opposed to an air hammer. There hasn't been a barrel pin I haven't been able to drive out yet.
Mark, Interesting idea on driving the trunnion on the barrel. I have had the same issue with a PSL barrel as stated above and was wondering what would work to press it in.
Mark, Interesting idea on driving the trunnion on the barrel. I have had the same issue with a PSL barrel as stated above and was wondering what would work to press it in.
12/16/2011 2:01:12 PM
We used the all thread rod method: THANK YOU SO MUCH for recommending it. Holy moly was that a hell of a lot easier than using the press for the headspacing.
12/16/2011 3:08:59 PM
Originally Posted By radkoch:
I use a Deutsch recoilless 5x for most things. The recoilless sure makes a big difference as opposed to an air hammer. There hasn't been a barrel pin I haven't been able to drive out yet.
.
I use a Deutsch recoilless 5x for most things. The recoilless sure makes a big difference as opposed to an air hammer. There hasn't been a barrel pin I haven't been able to drive out yet.
.
How does an APT "recoiless" differ from the ACAT that I use?
http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/2,402.html
12/16/2011 7:09:08 PM
Originally Posted By Gunplumber:
How does an APT "recoiless" differ from the ACAT that I use?
http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/2,402.html
Originally Posted By radkoch:
I use a Deutsch recoilless 5x for most things. The recoilless sure makes a big difference as opposed to an air hammer. There hasn't been a barrel pin I haven't been able to drive out yet.
.
I use a Deutsch recoilless 5x for most things. The recoilless sure makes a big difference as opposed to an air hammer. There hasn't been a barrel pin I haven't been able to drive out yet.
.
How does an APT "recoiless" differ from the ACAT that I use?
http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/2,402.html
The main difference is that the barrel that holds the rivet set is free floating. The amount of felt recoil is very light. I would compare my 5x to around the recoil of a 2x if even that. Very nice trigger control. Drives rivets very well as I have even used it on Monels and had no problem whatsoever.
Here is a comparable one Recoilless
