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Okay I am ready
10/7/2011 11:12:41 PM
After soaking the front site and the gas block that are both attached to a cut barrel I give up. I soaked for 4 days so I am going to break down and buy a jig if they make one for toothpick pins. LOL So I will be ever grateful if somebody would steer me in the right direction.
10/8/2011 12:00:50 AM
punch the pins out and put it in a press. support with with some scrap angle and press them out.
10/8/2011 12:12:51 AM
Send them to me and pay for return shipping and I'll get them off for you.
10/8/2011 5:25:22 AM
Support the barrel stub securely, take a small "finishing nail-set" and a BFH and smack the nail-set to start the pin moving. Then take a pin punch of the right size and continue to drive it out.
I have never found a pin I could not intimidate!!
I have never found a pin I could not intimidate!!
10/8/2011 9:11:08 PM
Originally Posted By centralflguns:
After soaking the front site and the gas block that are both attached to a cut barrel I give up. I soaked for 4 days so I am going to break down and buy a jig if they make one for toothpick pins. LOL So I will be ever grateful if somebody would steer me in the right direction.
After soaking the front site and the gas block that are both attached to a cut barrel I give up. I soaked for 4 days so I am going to break down and buy a jig if they make one for toothpick pins. LOL So I will be ever grateful if somebody would steer me in the right direction.
Just to make sure I'm clear on what you are asking, you are talking about the barrel pin, correct? If so I haven't done them with anything other than a standard pin and press (never had to soak them). Other ways of doing barrel pins include large hammers, punches, air jacks, gear pullers and similar tools. Good luck and have fun!
10/9/2011 10:36:07 AM
My method for removing the front sight pins, gas block pins and barrel pin is simple. First, use a high quality straight non tapered pin punch. Not the soft made in China junk. The punch must be slightly smaller in diameter than the pin. Turn the punch down if necessary, you can use a drll press, file and emery cloth to do this if you don't have a lathe. Make sure that the end of the punch is flat. As far as punch length goes, shorter is better. Important, lock the barrel "solid" in a vice. It must not be allowed to bounce, you want 100% of the hammer blow energy on the pin with NO movement of the other parts. Lock the punch in vice-grips and use a BIG hammer. Align punch on pin and hit it like you mean it !!! This first blow is very important to get the pin to move. No love taps, this will only mushroom the pin. If you mushroom the pin on one side, stop, turn it over and hit it again from the other side. If you mushroom both ends of the pin due to "love taps", its over...you must drill the pin out. Remember, lock it SOLID, and first strike....hit it HARD.
10/9/2011 4:53:40 PM
I soak the overnight in WD-40 or Break Her Loose foam and then with a short punch I get it moving and finish with a bigger one.... Oh i should say longer punch... Dont try to use a long one from the get go because you will break it or get it stuck on the hole and then you have a bigger mess......
10/9/2011 8:37:20 PM
It also helps to soak the pins for about a week prior to pin removal. A product called 'KROIL' is the best penetrating oil to use.
