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Rifle Won't fire brown bear (fails to ignite) but other rifles will
12/1/2011 11:34:34 PM
Was having a problem with WOLF after firing around 60 rounds or so I'd get a Failure to eject and a stuck case. I didn't have this problem with laquer coated Brown Bear but every 10ish rounds I'd have a failure to fire. We could take the rounds that didn't fire in mine and run them though multiple other rifles with no problems. Other rifles also ran though same batch of Brown Bear with no issues. I figured it was a firing pin issue.
I replaced the firing pin, extractor, extractor spring and booster and my extraction problems with WOLF ended, but my problems with Brown Bear persist.
Question is, is there anything else I can replace to potentially solve this problem? Shooting only brass ammo isn't an option I won't have a rifle that won't eat steel cased ammo. Right now I'm thinking either an out of spec bolt keeping the firing pin from traveling far enough forward or borderline out of spec head spacing.
Thanks for any help guys.
I replaced the firing pin, extractor, extractor spring and booster and my extraction problems with WOLF ended, but my problems with Brown Bear persist.
Question is, is there anything else I can replace to potentially solve this problem? Shooting only brass ammo isn't an option I won't have a rifle that won't eat steel cased ammo. Right now I'm thinking either an out of spec bolt keeping the firing pin from traveling far enough forward or borderline out of spec head spacing.
Thanks for any help guys.
12/1/2011 11:44:02 PM
Stop using wolf
And do a search. Steel cases have issues
And do a search. Steel cases have issues
12/1/2011 11:50:05 PM
Try changing your hammer spring.
12/1/2011 11:52:02 PM
Originally Posted By sd_norske:
Try changing your hammer spring.
Try changing your hammer spring.
That's what I would try.
12/1/2011 11:56:32 PM
Originally Posted By 458winmag:
Stop using wolf
And do a search. Steel cases have issues
Stop using wolf
And do a search. Steel cases have issues
Not happening ( think I covered that in the OP) I'll get another upper before I stop using WOLF. I won't trust a rifle that won't eat steel cases. I've shot enough over the years to know the issues that are abound with ARs and steel cases and I know it's a hit and miss proposition on the subject. I don't have to do a search.
The other posters thanks the helpful advice I'll pick up a new hammer spring and give'er a shot. Actually I'll just pick up a bunch of consumables and throw them on the shooting rack.
12/2/2011 1:03:46 AM
Just swapping out firing pin will not help, you should measure the protrusion of the firing pin from the boltface. Make sure its long enough without being too long.
If it is short, removing metal from the tail of the bolt a little at a time can get it to protrude enough. Go slow.
If it is short, removing metal from the tail of the bolt a little at a time can get it to protrude enough. Go slow.
12/2/2011 1:08:34 AM
Originally Posted By a308garand:
Just swapping out firing pin will not help, you should measure the protrusion of the firing pin from the boltface. Make sure its long enough without being too long.
If it is short, removing metal from the tail of the bolt a little at a time can get it to protrude enough. Go slow.
Just swapping out firing pin will not help, you should measure the protrusion of the firing pin from the boltface. Make sure its long enough without being too long.
If it is short, removing metal from the tail of the bolt a little at a time can get it to protrude enough. Go slow.
Bolts are expensive, firing pins are not.
Remove metal from the firing pin collar.
12/2/2011 1:30:43 AM
Originally Posted By ziarifleman:
Bolts are expensive, firing pins are not.
Remove metal from the firing pin collar.
Originally Posted By a308garand:
Just swapping out firing pin will not help, you should measure the protrusion of the firing pin from the boltface. Make sure its long enough without being too long.
If it is short, removing metal from the tail of the bolt a little at a time can get it to protrude enough. Go slow.
Just swapping out firing pin will not help, you should measure the protrusion of the firing pin from the boltface. Make sure its long enough without being too long.
If it is short, removing metal from the tail of the bolt a little at a time can get it to protrude enough. Go slow.
Bolts are expensive, firing pins are not.
Remove metal from the firing pin collar.
Generally easier to evenly stone/file the bolt tail with hand tools. Also allows you to replace firing pin in the future without fitting it again. Besides, if the bolt is a hair too long, you just fixed it
12/2/2011 7:24:12 AM
If you are binding up on Coated ammo after 60 round, you cleaning solutions and skill blow big time.
Drop the Hoppes and use something like Sweets to clean the copper out of the bore. The chamber and rest of the rifle gets cleaned with CLP, and a chamber brush, and once you have everything cleaned (read so much that an armorer would not threw the rifle back at you to clean it again),lean hard in to lubing the upper bearing areas with CLP on the wetter side as well.
Bottom line, you have a chamber condition that is not allowing the bolt to fully lock up so the FP can full protrude, and that condition is you are not getting it fully clean.
Drop the Hoppes and use something like Sweets to clean the copper out of the bore. The chamber and rest of the rifle gets cleaned with CLP, and a chamber brush, and once you have everything cleaned (read so much that an armorer would not threw the rifle back at you to clean it again),lean hard in to lubing the upper bearing areas with CLP on the wetter side as well.
Bottom line, you have a chamber condition that is not allowing the bolt to fully lock up so the FP can full protrude, and that condition is you are not getting it fully clean.
12/2/2011 7:55:56 AM
Originally Posted By Dano523:
If you are binding up on Coated ammo after 60 round, you cleaning solutions and skill blow big time.
Drop the Hoppes and use something like Sweets to clean the copper out of the bore. The chamber and rest of the rifle gets cleaned with CLP, and a chamber brush, and once you have everything cleaned (read so much that an armorer would not threw the rifle back at you to clean it again),lean hard in to lubing the upper bearing areas with CLP on the wetter side as well.
Bottom line, you have a chamber condition that is not allowing the bolt to fully lock up so the FP can full protrude, and that condition is you are not getting it fully clean.
If you are binding up on Coated ammo after 60 round, you cleaning solutions and skill blow big time.
Drop the Hoppes and use something like Sweets to clean the copper out of the bore. The chamber and rest of the rifle gets cleaned with CLP, and a chamber brush, and once you have everything cleaned (read so much that an armorer would not threw the rifle back at you to clean it again),lean hard in to lubing the upper bearing areas with CLP on the wetter side as well.
Bottom line, you have a chamber condition that is not allowing the bolt to fully lock up so the FP can full protrude, and that condition is you are not getting it fully clean.
Thanks for new replies guys :) Filing of the parts will be a last resort type of situation to make it run. I can't get a new hammer spring before this weekend but I'll throw another known good/new lower on it and see if it'll fire Brown Bear though the same upper and see if my lower will cause an issue with the other upper.
The weapon isn't getting any cleaner without swapping in new parts. 8 and a half years in the Marine Corps so far I know how to clean a weapon till it's clean by even the most anal person's standards. The issue I had with Wolf getting stuck was remidied with a new extractor/spring/and booster, now the only problem I'm having is with Brown Bear.
12/2/2011 9:16:26 PM
Going to go out on a limb then if the rifle is clean, and if the barrel is a BM barrel (and a few others come to mind), then the cross walls of the chamber are too tight (will break in through threw live fire though).
Bm and a few others love to chamber on the tighter side to promote accuracy, but it's a cost of reliability, and just don't run well with coated ammo until they have seen about 1K of brass ammo through them (read would not have this problem with a Colt or FN barrel, since they use a Nato type chamber, in the cross wall dimensions as well, which are a tad looser).
Bm and a few others love to chamber on the tighter side to promote accuracy, but it's a cost of reliability, and just don't run well with coated ammo until they have seen about 1K of brass ammo through them (read would not have this problem with a Colt or FN barrel, since they use a Nato type chamber, in the cross wall dimensions as well, which are a tad looser).
12/3/2011 5:22:25 PM
Thanks for the help guys. Replaced the hammer spring this morning and it solved my problems ran rough 250 rounds of brown bear ammo in the rain lol and it ran flawlessly. 
12/4/2011 8:19:45 PM
Originally Posted By sd_norske:
Try changing your hammer spring.
Try changing your hammer spring.
This.
Wolf XP hammer spring.
