Tightening the castle nut...
I bought a mil-spec CTR stock, and needed to put a milspec tube on, so I bought it and stripped the living shit out of the threads with my slap plate in the process.
Then I bought another tube, which looks identical to a commercial tube, but it fits milspec stocks.
Anyhow, I tightened the castle nut to the point that it began to turn the tube and stopped, is this good enough?
Also, I didn't put any loctite or the like on there, is this necessary?
thanks guys.
I tighten mine up pretty damn tight and then stake the castle nut. Believe it or not, I've had a staked nut come loose before.

No Loctite.
Staked if you want, or want to be correct.
A lot of guys don't stake because they change their stuff a lot.
I have 2 carbines I've been swapping from collapsible to A1 and back, so no stake for those.
Originally Posted By kaos:
No Loctite.
Staked if you want, or want to be correct.
A lot of guys don't stake because they change their stuff a lot.
I have 2 carbines I've been swapping from collapsible to A1 and back, so no stake for those.
This^
I stake my SHTF and HD guns, my plinkers and frankenrifles I don't worry about.
I torque to 40ftlbs and call it good. I change stuff to often to stake the nut.
Unless you have a lower vise block, kind of a two man job.
With a lower vise block, you have that holding the lower receiver so you can hang onto the tube to keep if from creeping/rotating, then use your other hand to tighten the castle nut.
Originally Posted By Assault-Rifle-City:
I bought a mil-spec CTR stock, and needed to put a milspec tube on, so I bought it and stripped the living shit out of the threads with my slap plate in the process.
Then I bought another tube, which looks identical to a commercial tube, but it fits milspec stocks.
Anyhow, I tightened the castle nut to the point that it began to turn the tube and stopped, is this good enough?
Also, I didn't put any loctite or the like on there, is this necessary?
thanks guys.
You stripped it from use because the metal link was always rubbing against the buffer tube threads?
Thanks for the good info guys.
What would it cost me at a gunsmith to get the castle nut staked? (just looking for a rough figure)
Originally Posted By Dano523:
Unless you have a lower vise block, kind of a two man job.
With a lower vise block, you have that holding the lower receiver so you can hang onto the tube to keep if from creeping/rotating, then use your other hand to tighten the castle nut.
I've never seen one, where do you get them?
http://giantoutfitters.com/products/Promag-Ar15-Lower-Reciver-Vise-Block.html
Note: may be able to get one cheaper from Brownells, and just did the above link to show photo's of how it works.
Thanks, I've got one. I envisioned something else
Originally Posted By Assault-Rifle-City:
I bought a mil-spec CTR stock, and needed to put a milspec tube on, so I bought it and stripped the living shit out of the threads with my slap plate in the process.
Then I bought another tube, which looks identical to a commercial tube, but it fits milspec stocks.
Anyhow, I tightened the castle nut to the point that it began to turn the tube and stopped, is this good enough?
Also, I didn't put any loctite or the like on there, is this necessary?
thanks guys.
Use a receiver block or an old crappy steel mag, secure the receiver in the vise, install the tube, plate and castle nut as you've done. At this point, I would install the CTR stock and use it as mean to keep the tube from turning while tighten the castle nut. Some castle nut/tube combination don't fit as tight so a VERY SMALL drop of blue lock tight would help.
I've had my share of castle nut issues so I went with a PWS Enhanced Buffer Tube because I just hate the castle nut design. It's expensive but I think it's well worth it, and it would probably cost more to take it to a gunsmith to have the castle nut staked or to use a vice block, especially if you don't already have a vice already.