AR15.Com Archives
 Unknown Olympic Arms AR build (pictures)
Finity1  [Member]
6/4/2010 12:08:29 PM EST
Greetings all,
I bought an Olympic Arms AR, 16" 5.56 from a FFL dealer last year. I believe the exact type is the Olympic Arms Plinker Plus, however the manual that came with the weapon is very generic. Having scoured the internet for an Olypmic Arms AR that looks like my weapon, I believe that I have an upper and lower that may not both be from the factory, and/or were modded by the dealer. I have been able to identify on the upper an Anchor Harvey symbol:







Can anyone confirm from these pictures that the weapon is in fact an Olympic Arms Plinker Plus rifle with? (Front hand grip, sites and one point sling adapter have been added by me). I have a good amount of experience in dealing with the AR platform as a weapon, but am fairly naive on buying and dealing with 3rd party ARs. I have been having stove pipe issues with the weapon but I decided that I would create a different post for that problem, assuming that a mismatching upper and lower is not the problem. Thanks to anyone that may have a clue!
Finity1





Paid Advertisement
--
a308garand  [Team Member]
6/4/2010 12:34:38 PM EST
Contacting Olympic Arms would be the best way to tell what you have....

Stovepiping issue, are the empty casings failing to exit the ejection port and getting caught by the following round from the magazine?
If so, failure to extract could be fixed by looking over the extractor. Replace the extractor spring and insert with the heavy spring and black insert from Bravo Company.
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-Extractor-Spring-Uprade-Kit-p/bcm%20extractor%20spring%20upgrade.htm

And Welcome to the site
doc_Zox  [Team Member]
6/4/2010 12:42:24 PM EST
how clean is the chamber?
lets see the gas block and the carrier
is the gas key properly staked?

altopwescap  [Member]
6/4/2010 12:42:28 PM EST
I'd say it is a complete Oly rifle. They used Anchor Harvey forging for their upper receivers. Does the bolt or carrier have a Y in a circle marking?
Finity1  [Member]
6/4/2010 12:48:31 PM EST
a308garand,
Apologies, I should have clarified my stovepipe issue, and your are correct (spent round getting caught by new round being pushed into chamber). I actually started another threat on the actual problem, because I did not want this post to become to large and try to deal with too many problems. I have pictures of my extractor/extractor spring assembly in my other post on the stovepiping problem (http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=66&t=499617). Thank you for the suggestions and the link, as well as the warm welcome
Finity1  [Member]
6/4/2010 1:08:23 PM EST
Thank you all for the quick responses.
@ altopwescap: Yes, there is a y with a cirlce around it on the top of the bcg:



@ doc_Zox: The gas block, I have never removed one on an AR before.. and I am not exactly sure how to tell if the gas key is properly stacked. My chamber is also usually fairly clean.





doc_Zox  [Team Member]
6/4/2010 1:26:31 PM EST
It looks wet as heck and the key is not staked

can you crank the allen bolts any tighter?
It could be under powered from a leak at the key

What does the front gas block look like?
How is it attached? taper pins or bolt on?
does it look aligned?
doc_Zox  [Team Member]
6/4/2010 1:27:26 PM EST
http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&rlz=&q=gas%20key%20staking&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi
Finity1  [Member]
6/4/2010 1:43:46 PM EST
Well, I just screwed myself royally. While attempting to tighten the allen screw closest to the head of the bolt, the screw snapped in half in the well. So now do I buy a new gas key or just say screw it all and buy a new bcg?
doc_Zox  [Team Member]
6/4/2010 2:33:25 PM EST
easy out

can you back the other one off, remove the key and get ahold of the stub?
Eric  [Member]
6/4/2010 3:04:12 PM EST
Plinker Plus

Does your barrel have any marks?
a308garand  [Team Member]
6/4/2010 3:39:18 PM EST
Originally Posted By Finity1:
a308garand,
Apologies, I should have clarified my stovepipe issue, and your are correct (spent round getting caught by new round being pushed into chamber). I actually started another threat on the actual problem, because I did not want this post to become to large and try to deal with too many problems. I have pictures of my extractor/extractor spring assembly in my other post on the stovepiping problem (http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=66&t=499617). Thank you for the suggestions and the link, as well as the warm welcome


No worries, I posted further in your other thread. Hope you get the rifle up and running without spending a bunch of cash.

Finity1  [Member]
6/4/2010 3:43:32 PM EST
@ eric: The only markings I can find on the barrel say 556, located on the top of the barrel just in front of the gas block.

@ doc_Zox: I was able to get the key off of the carrier, but the stub that broke is stuck inside the well. Right now I am debating to buy an easy out and get new bolts, but then I am very inexperienced in stacking gas keys (this would be my first) and I am lacking the equipment to do so, and I am unsure how much torque I should apply to the bolts.

I have the money to buy a new bcg, but if you guys think buying bolts for the gas key at bravocompany and then reinstalling the gas key would be a better fix, let me know...
Dano523  [Moderator]
6/4/2010 11:39:50 PM EST
Yes, pull the broken part of the bolt out of the carrier so you can install new bolts. The snapped section of the bolt is no longer under tension, so drill and removal tool should be a quick.

Carrier and key should be fine, so no need to replace them.

So with new key bolts in hand, make sure that the top of the carrier and the bottom of the key are clean/smooth/flat, and get ready to reinstall the key.

Start off by laying a thing layer of Blue loctite on the top of the carrier key mating surface. The loctite is not going to be used as a bonding agent, but instead as a thin gasket. Next lay the key in place and while working both bolts, tighten them to 37 inch lbs (work back and forth until you hit the 37 in lbs. Once the bolt are tightened, blow down the key to remove any loctite that may have found it's way into the gas passage of both.

The next thing you will do is to flow metal from the key into the side splines of the bolts. Here is a write on on just that.
And if you missed it the first time, do not flow the bolt metal into the key, but the key metal into the sides of the bolt heads (read bolt head is not to be struck with the punch).
http://www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=122
Eric  [Member]
6/5/2010 3:53:09 AM EST
The only markings I can find on the barrel say 556, located on the top of the barrel just in front of the gas block.
Which is consistent with a factory OA barrel.

B_R  [Team Member]
6/5/2010 7:43:14 AM EST
Originally Posted By a308garand:
Contacting Olympic Arms would be the best way to tell what you have....

Stovepiping issue, are the empty casings failing to exit the ejection port and getting caught by the following round from the magazine?
If so, failure to extract could be fixed by looking over the extractor. Replace the extractor spring and insert with the heavy spring and black insert from Bravo Company.
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-Extractor-Spring-Uprade-Kit-p/bcm%20extractor%20spring%20upgrade.htm

And Welcome to the site


edit
Finity1  [Member]
6/5/2010 6:35:53 PM EST
Thanks everyone for the input. I'll probably order new bolts as well as a new bcg, to have a functioning bolt in case * #@( up attempting to put the gas key back on the old bcg.

@ Eric: Thank you for confirming the marking on the barrel for me.

I'll work forward from here and see what I can do
Paid Advertisement
--