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DPMS .308 Reciever Block
6/1/2012 2:19:53 PM
I'm putting a Troy free float rail on my DPMS .308 carbine and didn't have an upper reciever block. So I made this one. Its a square extrusion milled to accept the upper mounting lugs and I made an internal rod the diameter of the reciever. The two bolt together from the bottom. I got the old guards off now I'm waiting for the brown truck to deliver the float tube.
6/1/2012 2:53:32 PM
Those lugs are not made to withstand the torque from tightening a barrel nut.
You don't need a receiver block at all, just put the receiver in a vice sideways (flat-top against one set of jaws) with something to protect the finish.
You don't need a receiver block at all, just put the receiver in a vice sideways (flat-top against one set of jaws) with something to protect the finish.
6/1/2012 3:10:37 PM
Originally Posted By FlyingIllini:
Those lugs are not made to withstand the torque from tightening a barrel nut.
You don't need a receiver block at all, just put the receiver in a vice sideways (flat-top against one set of jaws) with something to protect the finish.
Those lugs are not made to withstand the torque from tightening a barrel nut.
You don't need a receiver block at all, just put the receiver in a vice sideways (flat-top against one set of jaws) with something to protect the finish.
I've done this ^ twice, no problems.
6/1/2012 11:32:43 PM
I built a MEGA MA-TEN and the ONLY upper receiver vice block that is warranted to use is the 308 DPMS Panther Claw.
I bought it, used it and had absolutely no problems when clamped into a vice like you show.
You can do like what others have stated (use it sideways) and you shouldn't have any problems at all. You don't need much torque to install a barrel nut.
I bought it, used it and had absolutely no problems when clamped into a vice like you show.
You can do like what others have stated (use it sideways) and you shouldn't have any problems at all. You don't need much torque to install a barrel nut.
6/2/2012 12:08:48 AM
I dont use my block to install barrels but its nice for installing hand guards,scope mounts and other things.
6/2/2012 6:53:04 AM
Originally Posted By FlyingIllini:
Those lugs are not made to withstand the torque from tightening a barrel nut.
You don't need a receiver block at all, just put the receiver in a vice sideways (flat-top against one set of jaws) with something to protect the finish.
Those lugs are not made to withstand the torque from tightening a barrel nut.
You don't need a receiver block at all, just put the receiver in a vice sideways (flat-top against one set of jaws) with something to protect the finish.
The lugs are not taking the load. The internal bar stock bolted to the lower block takes the load.
6/2/2012 4:24:22 PM
Originally Posted By RandyStacyE:
I built a MEGA MA-TEN and the ONLY upper receiver vice block that is warranted to use is the 308 DPMS Panther Claw.
I bought it, used it and had absolutely no problems when clamped into a vice like you show.
You can do like what others have stated (use it sideways) and you shouldn't have any problems at all. You don't usually need much torque to install a barrel nut.
I built a MEGA MA-TEN and the ONLY upper receiver vice block that is warranted to use is the 308 DPMS Panther Claw.
I bought it, used it and had absolutely no problems when clamped into a vice like you show.
You can do like what others have stated (use it sideways) and you shouldn't have any problems at all. You don't usually need much torque to install a barrel nut.
Fixed it for ya. My dislike of the Claw is for rebarreling uppers that someone else installed. Break loose torque sometimes exceeds 100ft lbs, and I like more support when values get up over 75 ft/lbs.
6/2/2012 4:25:59 PM
Originally Posted By oldjack:
The lugs are not taking the load. The internal bar stock bolted to the lower block takes the load.
Originally Posted By FlyingIllini:
Those lugs are not made to withstand the torque from tightening a barrel nut.
You don't need a receiver block at all, just put the receiver in a vice sideways (flat-top against one set of jaws) with something to protect the finish.
Those lugs are not made to withstand the torque from tightening a barrel nut.
You don't need a receiver block at all, just put the receiver in a vice sideways (flat-top against one set of jaws) with something to protect the finish.
The lugs are not taking the load. The internal bar stock bolted to the lower block takes the load.
It is tough to tell from your pic, but how stout are those bolts?
6/2/2012 5:11:56 PM
Nicely done block. Would it work with armalite/similar uppers as well?
How much would you charge to make one?
6/2/2012 5:36:53 PM
Originally Posted By Bretshooter:
My dislike of the Claw is for rebarreling uppers that someone else installed. Break loose torque sometimes exceeds 100ft lbs, and I like more support when values get up over 75 ft/lbs.
My dislike of the Claw is for rebarreling uppers that someone else installed. Break loose torque sometimes exceeds 100ft lbs, and I like more support when values get up over 75 ft/lbs.
Absolutely correct.
De-barreling is when the "Claw" system can fail resulting in a destroyed receiver.
For a normal install they're OK as long as you don't run the torque way up.
Something like this (Spikes) perhaps with the carrier tunnel supported, wouldn't be bad.
6/3/2012 6:47:06 AM
Originally Posted By Bretshooter:
It is tough to tell from your pic, but how stout are those bolts?
Originally Posted By oldjack:
The lugs are not taking the load. The internal bar stock bolted to the lower block takes the load.
Originally Posted By FlyingIllini:
Those lugs are not made to withstand the torque from tightening a barrel nut.
You don't need a receiver block at all, just put the receiver in a vice sideways (flat-top against one set of jaws) with something to protect the finish.
Those lugs are not made to withstand the torque from tightening a barrel nut.
You don't need a receiver block at all, just put the receiver in a vice sideways (flat-top against one set of jaws) with something to protect the finish.
The lugs are not taking the load. The internal bar stock bolted to the lower block takes the load.
It is tough to tell from your pic, but how stout are those bolts?
Two 1/4 20 bolts going 3/4 of the way into the round bar stock. I don't want to make these, I just put this together because I wanted to see if I could make something that would work.
6/3/2012 9:45:37 AM
Originally Posted By Direct-Drive:
Absolutely correct.
De-barreling is when the "Claw" system can fail resulting in a destroyed receiver.
For a normal install they're OK as long as you don't run the torque way up.
Something like this (Spikes) perhaps with the carrier tunnel supported, wouldn't be bad.
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/6861/bw1600x450.jpg
I use something similar to this setup. As DIrect-Drive stated, for additional wall strength I insert two appropriate sized sockets from the tool box into the upper tunnel. Forget the actual size at the
moment but their OD fit is just about perfect. Better safe than sorry.
Originally Posted By Bretshooter:
My dislike of the Claw is for rebarreling uppers that someone else installed. Break loose torque sometimes exceeds 100ft lbs, and I like more support when values get up over 75 ft/lbs.
My dislike of the Claw is for rebarreling uppers that someone else installed. Break loose torque sometimes exceeds 100ft lbs, and I like more support when values get up over 75 ft/lbs.
Absolutely correct.
De-barreling is when the "Claw" system can fail resulting in a destroyed receiver.
For a normal install they're OK as long as you don't run the torque way up.
Something like this (Spikes) perhaps with the carrier tunnel supported, wouldn't be bad.
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/6861/bw1600x450.jpg
I use something similar to this setup. As DIrect-Drive stated, for additional wall strength I insert two appropriate sized sockets from the tool box into the upper tunnel. Forget the actual size at the
moment but their OD fit is just about perfect. Better safe than sorry.
