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Anyone ever done this before
5/26/2012 4:21:27 PM
I bought a dsa Mil spec buffer tube. While installing it I may have went a little too tight. The end plate crushed the threads and the tube started spinning as a result. I didn't even crank on it. Anyone else ever do this and is cheap material a contributing factor? I've never had this problem before. I always used spikes or larue, never dsa before.
5/26/2012 4:33:38 PM
Originally Posted By Pma531:
I bought a dsa Mil spec buffer tube. While installing it I may have went a little too tight. The end plate crushed the threads and the tube started spinning as a result. I didn't even crank on it. Anyone else ever do this and is cheap material a contributing factor? I've never had this problem before. I always used spikes or larue, never dsa before.
I bought a dsa Mil spec buffer tube. While installing it I may have went a little too tight. The end plate crushed the threads and the tube started spinning as a result. I didn't even crank on it. Anyone else ever do this and is cheap material a contributing factor? I've never had this problem before. I always used spikes or larue, never dsa before.
Sounds like the endplate key and tube slot did not match up and allowed the tube to spin ?
5/26/2012 4:42:42 PM
On the tube there is threads. And a slot where the endplate slides into. The notch on the endplate dug into and broke some of the threads.
5/26/2012 6:38:00 PM
I have not done it but I can see where it could easily happen.
To prevent this, before I run the tube in, I back the locknut up to the end of the threads.
After getting the tube to the correct depth and orientation, I rub some grease into the buffer tub threads approximately the width of the locknut.
This way, the nut spins more freely on the tube than the tube spins in the lower.
The slight amount of key engagement, plus holding on to the stock, are enough to keep the buffer tube from spinning relative to the lower.
Other than it being a little ugly, I don't see why it's not still useable, if you back the nut off, orient the tube correctly, grease the buffer tube threads, and with the help of a friend to hold the stock and lower down on a bench together, crank the nut good 'n tight.
A black Sharpie marker is your friend.
Joe
To prevent this, before I run the tube in, I back the locknut up to the end of the threads.
After getting the tube to the correct depth and orientation, I rub some grease into the buffer tub threads approximately the width of the locknut.
This way, the nut spins more freely on the tube than the tube spins in the lower.
The slight amount of key engagement, plus holding on to the stock, are enough to keep the buffer tube from spinning relative to the lower.
Other than it being a little ugly, I don't see why it's not still useable, if you back the nut off, orient the tube correctly, grease the buffer tube threads, and with the help of a friend to hold the stock and lower down on a bench together, crank the nut good 'n tight.
A black Sharpie marker is your friend.
Joe
5/26/2012 7:18:44 PM
I did that on my first build, using a Tapco commercial buffer tube. It still worked, but I eventually replaced it with a Spike's mil-spec tube and an MOE stock.
5/26/2012 8:51:32 PM
It sounds like the end-plate key notch was not long enough to sit deep enough in the buffer tube key way. Improperly made end-plate maybe? 
5/27/2012 12:22:15 AM
Did something similar when I installed a collapsable stock on my rifle right after the ban expired.its ugly but it lived.
