Archived Posts » 59,859,448
Castle nut was easy
1/2/2012 6:39:25 PM
Just installed my single point sling and when I was removing the castle nut it was really simple to unscrew with the Tapco wrench. I was expecting it to be a battle. That common? It's a PSA ar just fyi.
1/2/2012 6:47:04 PM
Was the castle nut staked?
1/2/2012 6:50:34 PM
I think it was, but not sure how to restack it.
1/2/2012 6:57:35 PM
If it was easy to remove, I doubt it was staked (or staked well) or torqued to spec.
If it was staked, the castle nut old still show it was. How about posting a pic?
If it was staked, the castle nut old still show it was. How about posting a pic?
1/2/2012 7:05:49 PM
Ya I guess it probably wasn't then. But here are some pics.
1/2/2012 7:07:55 PM
Nope not staked...lucky you!
1/2/2012 7:10:11 PM
Did you replace the end plate when you installed the sling mount or is it the original one?
1/2/2012 7:10:12 PM
Haha ya at least for the install part. Haven't shot it yet but plan to hopefully soon. So should I stack it or go with the loctite? And best way to do it?
1/2/2012 7:11:11 PM
Originally Posted By Matt_B:
Did you replace the end plate when you installed the sling mount or is it the original one?
Did you replace the end plate when you installed the sling mount or is it the original one?
Yes I replaced it with the blackhawk single plate adaptor.
1/2/2012 7:22:57 PM
OK, I gotta ask the dumb question that everyone else knows but me, so here it is.
What is " Staked " and what does it look like, and, do I need to " Stake " mine before I shoot it. I just changed the stock on mine also?
Thanks
What is " Staked " and what does it look like, and, do I need to " Stake " mine before I shoot it. I just changed the stock on mine also?
Thanks
1/2/2012 7:34:59 PM
I'll let someone else explain it but this picture helped me get an idea.
1/2/2012 9:17:51 PM
did mine tonight. now it looks beat to hell because rra thought i necessary to use red loctite and over torque the nut. had to heat it up with my heatgun after about 5 tries/scratches and it wouldn't budge.
1/2/2012 10:27:52 PM
For a range toy it's not needed. It's not like they spin off when your not looking. Normal maintenance on the back of the tailgate will reveal any loosening.
1/2/2012 10:43:15 PM
For something so quick easy to do, it should be mandatory.
You'll never have to worry about it again for the duration of it's life.
You'll never have to worry about it again for the duration of it's life.
1/3/2012 5:49:33 AM
Originally Posted By contax_shooter:
For something so quick easy to do, it should be mandatory.
You'll never have to worry about it again for the duration of it's life.
For something so quick easy to do, it should be mandatory.
You'll never have to worry about it again for the duration of it's life.
Or at least the life of the old stock when it gets changed out.
1/3/2012 7:33:26 PM
it would just hurt me too much to stake my $20 noveske qd end plate. rather then damaging it, purple or blue lock-tite should works for me.
1/3/2012 8:32:49 PM
Purple? Enlighten me please. When I worked for a living it was just red and blue then some green stuff that was supposed to be like highly refined duct tape adhesive that made JB Weld look like something you'd send to skool with a kindergartener. Does purple fit in between the red and blue?
Jester
Jester
Originally Posted By flipsyde559:
it would just hurt me too much to stake my $20 noveske qd end plate. rather then damaging it, purple or blue lock-tite should works for me.
it would just hurt me too much to stake my $20 noveske qd end plate. rather then damaging it, purple or blue lock-tite should works for me.
1/3/2012 9:50:29 PM
Yeah... I didn't know there was purple either, until I got some that was included with my yhm free float. I believe it's rated below the blue. I don't get out to the range as often as I would like, so it works for me.
1/3/2012 10:05:26 PM
Purple is pretty much all I use - it's lower torque than blue, and is good for small fasteners too.
1/5/2012 2:27:55 PM
I thought the castle nut on my M&P 15 was gonna be tough too. Nothing a torch couldn't handle 
Heated for a minute and the castle nut just came right off.
Heated for a minute and the castle nut just came right off.
1/5/2012 5:13:46 PM
Where is the purple sold? I haven't bought any loctite in a long time. My first guess would be an auto parts store.
1/6/2012 12:02:51 AM
Just installed a Magpul ASAP plate on my Colt... used a hammer and very fine punch to move the staked metal out of the way, put the lower on the viced block and twisted the castle nut right off.
It was pretty tight, but not nearly as bad as I was expecting, given some of the stuff I've read.
1/6/2012 6:26:09 PM
Now grab your stock, put your lower between your knees, and twist.
If your stock rotates, which it will, you need to apply the proper amount of torque, and then stake it.
40 ft lbs. The manual that states 40 in lbs is a misprint, and a huge problem. These things need TORQUE, or they can rotate under pressure.
If your stock rotates, which it will, you need to apply the proper amount of torque, and then stake it.
40 ft lbs. The manual that states 40 in lbs is a misprint, and a huge problem. These things need TORQUE, or they can rotate under pressure.
1/6/2012 9:06:51 PM
Originally Posted By Marksman14:
Now grab your stock, put your lower between your knees, and twist.
If your stock rotates, which it will, you need to apply the proper amount of torque, and then stake it.
40 ft lbs. The manual that states 40 in lbs is a misprint, and a huge problem. These things need TORQUE, or they can rotate under pressure.
+1. One cannot appreciate how important doing this right is until you have the receiver extension come loose while firing the weapon.
Now grab your stock, put your lower between your knees, and twist.
If your stock rotates, which it will, you need to apply the proper amount of torque, and then stake it.
40 ft lbs. The manual that states 40 in lbs is a misprint, and a huge problem. These things need TORQUE, or they can rotate under pressure.
