AR15.Com Archives
 Syrac Ordnance Adjustable Gas Blocks
Jason_Syrac_Ordnance  [Industry Partner]
3/27/2012 10:51:03 AM
Syrac Ordnance is proud to offer our Adjustable Low Pro Gas Blocks



Syrac Ordnance Adjustable Gas Blocks:

Syrac adjustable gas blocks allow you to slow down the speed of your bolt carrier, by reducing the amount of gas flow through your system. A slower bolt carrier decreases the amount of recoil. Less recoil equals faster follow up shots. The gas blocks have two main features: adjustability from the front of the block and multiple adjustment settings by a detent locking mechanism. The block mechanism consists of a set screw and a detent. The block has a set screw that regulates the amount of gas that flows through the block. It can be adjusted repeatedly in the field without the need of using a thread-locker like Loctite™. You can regulate the amount of gas flow by unscrewing (opening) and screwing (closing) the set screw. Once you obtain the proper setting, the screw is locked into place by a detent. To adjust the set screw you push in the detent, use a Hex Key to turn the screw to the proper setting, and release the detent. The screw is locked in place by the detent. The screw will not turn (move) until the detent is manually pressed in.

The blocks also have a start hole location flat on one side. This faced off location is to be used to locate an end mill to break through the melonited surface. After you break through the surface you then use a drill to make a hole to pin the block to the barrel if you desire.

We currently have three SKUs:




.750” Adjustable Low Pro Clamp-On Gas Block

SKU# SO-10002

Cost: $113.20

Description:

This is a low profile adjustable gas block that clamps-on to AR15/AR10 barrels that have a .750” gas pad diameter. The adjustment screw has a detent locking mechanism.

Technical Information:

Material: 416 SS
Finish: Melonite
Barrel Diameter: 0.750”
Weight: 1.78 oz.
Length: 1.00”
Attachment Type: Clamp-on
Adjustment: Front of Block



Includes:

Gas Block
(2) 8-32 X 5/16” Socket Head Cap Screws
(2) Gas Tube Roll Pins
(2) 5/64 X 6” L-Shaped Hex Keys
Installation Instructions







.750” Adjustable Low Pro Gas Block

SKU# SO-10001

Cost: $106.95

Description:

This is a low profile adjustable gas block that fits AR15/AR10 barrels that have a .750” gas pad diameter. The adjustment screw has a detent locking mechanism.

Technical Information:

Material: 416 SS
Finish: Melonite
Barrel Diameter: 0.750”
Weight: 1.68 oz.
Length: 1.00”
Attachment Type: Set Screws
Adjustment: Front of Block



Includes:

Gas Block
(2) 10-32 x 1/4" Set Screws
(2) Gas Tube Roll Pins
(2) 5/64 X 6” L-Shaped Hex Keys
Installation Instructions








.625” Adjustable Low Pro Gas Block

SKU# SO-10005

Cost: $106.95

Description:

This is a low profile adjustable gas block that fits AR15/AR10 barrels that have a .625” gas pad diameter. The adjustment screw has a detent locking mechanism.

Technical Information:

Material: 416 SS
Finish: Melonite
Barrel Diameter: 0.625”
Weight: 1.39 oz.
Length: 1.00”
Attachment Type: Set Screws
Adjustment: Front of Block



Includes:

Gas Block
(2) 10-32 x 3/16" Set Screws
(2) Gas Tube Roll Pins
(2) 5/64 X 6” L-Shaped Hex Keys
Installation Instructions

We offer a 15 day money back guarantee if you do not like the product. We offer a 100% life time warranty for material and manufactures defects. Please see our website for the terms of these assurances.

If you are interested in ordering please call us at 727-487-2676 or email us at sales@syracordnance.com
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durabo  [Team Member]
3/27/2012 11:38:22 AM
Looks nice.

Give me a .650 Clamp-On FSB version please.
Jason_Syrac_Ordnance  [Industry Partner]
3/27/2012 12:02:27 PM
Thanks.

Working on it. Will not be a FSB, will be a low pro. I will let you know when it is available. Sometime mid summer.
core15rifles  [Industry Partner]
3/27/2012 12:22:30 PM

Originally Posted By Jason_Syrac_Ordnance:
Thanks.

Working on it. Will not be a FSB, will be a low pro. I will let you know when it is available. Sometime mid summer.

Killer looking product guys! Glad to see a fellow Floridian joining the AR market
Jason_Syrac_Ordnance  [Industry Partner]
3/27/2012 12:25:50 PM
Originally Posted By core15rifles:

Originally Posted By Jason_Syrac_Ordnance:
Thanks.

Working on it. Will not be a FSB, will be a low pro. I will let you know when it is available. Sometime mid summer.

Killer looking product guys! Glad to see a fellow Floridian joining the AR market


Thank you Sir. Please tell Norm I said hello.

Jason Adams

Gamma762  [Team Member]
3/27/2012 2:51:15 PM
Why melonited stainless?
Jason_Syrac_Ordnance  [Industry Partner]
3/27/2012 3:25:12 PM
Originally Posted By Gamma762:
Why melonited stainless?


Because it is awesome. I like melonite and if you use the proper stainless it holds its hardness because the tempering temperature is higher than the melonite processing temp, where a carbon steel like 4140 or 4150 would loose some internal hardness because the tempering temp. of those steels are lower than the melonite processing temp. Melonite is great for surface hardness, and with the mechanism on the block I need hard surfaces within the part. Melonite gets in holes.
sinlessorrow  [Team Member]
3/27/2012 3:31:05 PM
Originally Posted By Jason_Syrac_Ordnance:
Originally Posted By Gamma762:
Why melonited stainless?


Because it is awesome. I like melonite and if you use the proper stainless it holds its hardness because the tempering temperature is higher than the melonite processing temp, where a carbon steel like 4140 or 4150 would loose some internal hardness because the tempering temp. of those steels are lower than the melonite processing temp. Melonite is great for surface hardness, and with the mechanism on the block I need hard surfaces within the part. Melonite gets in holes.


i have to agree, having seen what a PWS barrel can do, 1MOA after 20,000 rounds melonited stainless is the shit
EMTCharlie  [Member]
3/28/2012 12:05:47 AM
Looks like a great product. I assume you would recommend the set screw type for a hard use rifle.
Gamma762  [Team Member]
3/28/2012 12:44:39 AM
Originally Posted By Jason_Syrac_Ordnance:
Originally Posted By Gamma762:
Why melonited stainless?

Because it is awesome. I like melonite and if you use the proper stainless it holds its hardness because the tempering temperature is higher than the melonite processing temp, where a carbon steel like 4140 or 4150 would loose some internal hardness because the tempering temp. of those steels are lower than the melonite processing temp. Melonite is great for surface hardness, and with the mechanism on the block I need hard surfaces within the part. Melonite gets in holes.

My concern is the known issue of loss of corrosion protection of melonited stainless vs melonited carbon steels (the M&P slide corrosion problem), as well as the different thermal expansion coefficients of a stainless gas block on a carbon steel barrel. Just curious is all what the rationale was for that combo.
AF2CHP  [Member]
3/28/2012 5:44:42 AM
Does midway sellyour product labeled under the name of AR-Stoner? I bought one and it looks just like yours. I am at work right now so its not sotting in front of me but I believe it is. Very nice design and product guys!
Jason_Syrac_Ordnance  [Industry Partner]
3/28/2012 9:46:22 AM
Originally Posted By AF2CHP:
Does midway sellyour product labeled under the name of AR-Stoner? I bought one and it looks just like yours. I am at work right now so its not sotting in front of me but I believe it is. Very nice design and product guys!


Yes Sir. The block they sell is manufactured by us. Thank you for the feed back!

_Iceman_  [Industry Partner]
3/28/2012 11:10:40 AM
I have one of each clamp and set screw models. Perfect for SBR's suppressed and unsuppressed. I have been extremely pleased with the quality and will be a repeat customer. Can't believe no one has pulled this off before. Best of luck with your new business!
USMC2147  [Team Member]
3/28/2012 11:11:56 AM
Do you plan on making a piston system like you did at Adams? Are you still affiliated with Adams?
Gifters  [Member]
3/28/2012 11:58:09 AM
Do the set screws line up with dimples used by other common gas blocks like the YHM low profile gas block? Also have you tested the fit of the gas block under different free float tubes? IF so which ones?


Thanks in advance
badazzar15  [Team Member]
3/28/2012 12:15:56 PM
Originally Posted By Gifters:
Do the set screws line up with dimples used by other common gas blocks like the YHM low profile gas block? Also have you tested the fit of the gas block under different free float tubes? Is so which ones?


The rear hole is always in the same spot because it's directly under the gas port.
heavily_armed  [Team Member]
3/28/2012 1:08:52 PM
Cool product

Can you describe the process to change the gas setting? Press in a detent while turning an allen screw, something like that? Just trying to imagine how that would work on a midlength gas system under a rifle length handguard.
AF2CHP  [Member]
3/28/2012 2:28:28 PM
They provide 2 long allens. One you can use to press in the detent and the other 2 turn or you can use a skinny flat screw driver and put it through the holes in the rails and then turn it with an allen wrench. Set it to where it will lock your BCG to the rear the. Turn the detent 1-3 turns for your liking.
Jason_Syrac_Ordnance  [Industry Partner]
3/28/2012 2:44:34 PM
Originally Posted By USMC2147:
Do you plan on making a piston system like you did at Adams? Are you still affiliated with Adams?


I am not permitted to discuss piston systems at this time. I am no longer affiliated with Adams Arms.

badazzar15  [Team Member]
3/28/2012 3:06:51 PM
Originally Posted By Jason_Syrac_Ordnance:
Originally Posted By USMC2147:
Do you plan on making a piston system like you did at Adams? Are you still affiliated with Adams?


I am not permitted to discuss piston systems at this time. I am no longer affiliated with Adams Arms.




Thank god..
USMC2147  [Team Member]
3/28/2012 11:31:19 PM
Originally Posted By Jason_Syrac_Ordnance:
Originally Posted By USMC2147:
Do you plan on making a piston system like you did at Adams? Are you still affiliated with Adams?


I am not permitted to discuss piston systems at this time. I am no longer affiliated with Adams Arms.



Sorry If I struck a chord.... Nice product you have here, and I look forward to what is going to be coming out in the future.
pegleggreg  [Team Member]
3/29/2012 12:30:43 AM
Originally Posted By Gamma762:
Originally Posted By Jason_Syrac_Ordnance:
Originally Posted By Gamma762:
Why melonited stainless?

Because it is awesome. I like melonite and if you use the proper stainless it holds its hardness because the tempering temperature is higher than the melonite processing temp, where a carbon steel like 4140 or 4150 would loose some internal hardness because the tempering temp. of those steels are lower than the melonite processing temp. Melonite is great for surface hardness, and with the mechanism on the block I need hard surfaces within the part. Melonite gets in holes.

My concern is the known issue of loss of corrosion protection of melonited stainless vs melonited carbon steels (the M&P slide corrosion problem), as well as the different thermal expansion coefficients of a stainless gas block on a carbon steel barrel. Just curious is all what the rationale was for that combo.

As I understand it, melonite decreases corrosion resistance on some stainless alloys, while enhancing it on others. Other mfgs dont have M&P probs........ As far as the thermal expansion on barrels goes, I prefer to use melonited SS barrels under the melonited SS gas block. Of course, I usually countersunk set screw holes into the barrel, red loctite the block on & use locking screws - I'm funny like that, but have a torch if it ever needs to come apart.
BlahBlah  [Team Member]
3/30/2012 9:38:06 AM
I'm in for a .750" set-screw block! Just what I've been looking for to go on my newest 6.5 Grendel build.
Gifters  [Member]
3/31/2012 8:05:41 AM
Does anyone have this gas block, and can review it? Pictures are always good because I'm not that good at reading. Would like to know what rail you have it under as well.


Thanks is advance
badazzar15  [Team Member]
3/31/2012 11:19:33 AM
Originally Posted By Gifters:
Does anyone have this gas block, and can review it? Pictures are always good because I'm not that good at reading. Would like to know what rail you have it under as well.


Thanks is advance


Jason's been manufacturing a ton of adjustable gas blocks for our OEM use, actually for quite a while now. It's by far the best design on the market that's capable of being adjusted from no gas, to full gas, and every where in between. The gas valve is detented in 4 for positions for 1/4 turn adjustments. These are also designed to use a standard non-modified Mil-Spec gas tube which is a huge benefit IMO. They are machined on high end equipment using high quality materials with an excellent surface treatment (on all parts). The springs are 17-7 stainless steel and shot peened. They are 100% designed and manufactured in the USA. It's a great product that's manufactured by a great guy with very innovated designs. Let me know if you have any questions and if I missed anything I'm sure Jason will fill in the blanks.

Here's a little review someone posted in our industry section,

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_2_282/216218_very_brief_review_of_Spike_s_adjustable_gas_block__spoiler__it_s_great_.html




Gifters  [Member]
3/31/2012 12:10:55 PM
Originally Posted By badazzar15:
Originally Posted By Gifters:
Does anyone have this gas block, and can review it? Pictures are always good because I'm not that good at reading. Would like to know what rail you have it under as well.


Thanks is advance


Jason's been manufacturing a ton of adjustable gas blocks for our OEM use, actually for quite a while now...

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_2_282/216218_very_brief_review_of_Spike_s_adjustable_gas_block__spoiler__it_s_great_.html






Thanks for the link and response, I have one of your MidLength gas tubes on backorder from brownells... I'm curious to see if their are any interferences with common FF rail options.
badazzar15  [Team Member]
3/31/2012 12:33:39 PM
Originally Posted By Gifters:
Originally Posted By badazzar15:
Originally Posted By Gifters:
Does anyone have this gas block, and can review it? Pictures are always good because I'm not that good at reading. Would like to know what rail you have it under as well.


Thanks is advance


Jason's been manufacturing a ton of adjustable gas blocks for our OEM use, actually for quite a while now...

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_2_282/216218_very_brief_review_of_Spike_s_adjustable_gas_block__spoiler__it_s_great_.html






Thanks for the link and response, I have one of your MidLength gas tubes on backorder from brownells... I'm curious to see if their are any interferences with common FF rail options.


These gas blocks are micro in size so they will fit under pretty much any rail system that a regular non-adjustable micro (or low profile) gas block will fit under. The only combination I can think of that may be an issue is using a KAC URX rail with a carbine length gas system, it may not have the proper clearance for the detent button sense the gas block sits into a pocket in the underside of the rail.

Also these gas blocks are adjustable from the front so you don't have to worry about accessing it through one of the side cut outs. The side cut outs vary in size and location depending on the rail, and different gas system lengths will also allow the gas block to land in many different locations. So having front adjustability is a huge benefit.

futuremodal  [Team Member]
3/31/2012 1:18:25 PM
How hard would it be to access one of these under an extra long forearm? Could accurate adjustments still be made from the front opening of the forearm with a long screwdriver et al?
badazzar15  [Team Member]
3/31/2012 2:25:27 PM
Originally Posted By futuremodal:
How hard would it be to access one of these under an extra long forearm? Could accurate adjustments still be made from the front opening of the forearm with a long screwdriver et al?


The adjustable block comes with two extra long Allen keys, I believe they are 6" long. One is used to press the detent and the other one is used to adjust the valve. It's a little tricky at first, and if your not careful you can slip off the detent, but it's not that bad when you get the hang of it. You definitely want to make sure that the weapon is unloaded and it's usually easier to make adjustments when the upper isn't attached to the lower. It can be done as a complete weapon but your dealing with more length, more weight, and it's a little bulkier to deal with. IMO the ONLY down side to this block is, it's not super quick to make adjustments, and if you change the valves position frequently you'll have to learn the position of the valve visually or by counting the number of turns and then always verify it's position by shooting it. Like I was saying it's not really that bad once you get the hang of it but it's not something that I would call adjustable on the fly or in the field because of it's wide range of adjustment that isn't really identifiable unless it's adjusted all the way open or all the way closed. It's not your typical adjustable gas system or adjustable gas block with an on, off, or suppressed mode. This block allows for a much finer adjustment which really allows you to dial in the operating system PERFECTLY for ANY application (caliber, ammo, buffer weight, over gassed operating system, suppressed, unsuppressed, ect..).

Mordicant  [Member]
3/31/2012 11:43:51 PM
Originally Posted By badazzar15:
Originally Posted By futuremodal:
How hard would it be to access one of these under an extra long forearm? Could accurate adjustments still be made from the front opening of the forearm with a long screwdriver et al?


The adjustable block comes with two extra long Allen keys, I believe they are 6" long. One is used to press the detent and the other one is used to adjust the valve. It's a little tricky at first, and if your not careful you can slip off the detent, but it's not that bad when you get the hang of it. You definitely want to make sure that the weapon is unloaded and it's usually easier to make adjustments when the upper isn't attached to the lower. It can be done as a complete weapon but your dealing with more length, more weight, and it's a little bulkier to deal with. IMO the ONLY down side to this block is, it's not super quick to make adjustments, and if you change the valves position frequently you'll have to learn the position of the valve visually or by counting the number of turns and then always verify it's position by shooting it. Like I was saying it's not really that bad once you get the hang of it but it's not something that I would call adjustable on the fly or in the field because of it's wide range of adjustment that isn't really identifiable unless it's adjusted all the way open or all the way closed. It's not your typical adjustable gas system or adjustable gas block with an on, off, or suppressed mode. This block allows for a much finer adjustment which really allows you to dial in the operating system PERFECTLY for ANY application (caliber, ammo, buffer weight, over gassed operating system, suppressed, unsuppressed, ect..).



How many positions (clicks) would you say there are in one 360 degree rotation?
badazzar15  [Team Member]
4/1/2012 12:31:39 AM
One complete revolution would be four detented positions.
Blackwind  [Team Member]
4/2/2012 1:37:29 AM
Timely seeing I'm starting a new upper build around a Templar Custom rail. Sweet!
cgrant26  [Team Member]
4/4/2012 1:51:32 AM
Looks like a nice piece. Adjustable gas blocks in .625 are nearly non-existent so you are sure going to make a lot of LW Carbine people happy. Any plans on doing a .625 railed version in the future? I'd buy one in a heartbeat.
Gifters  [Team Member]
4/9/2012 6:24:35 AM
Jason, in your experience: how much clearance do you need between the gas block and FF rail?
culaine  [Member]
4/9/2012 7:33:31 AM
Really like the product only suggestion i would have is on the front of the detent have a small indentation that way you could use an awl or pick to push it in without the chance of it slipping off to the sides
Jason_Syrac_Ordnance  [Industry Partner]
4/10/2012 3:37:24 PM
Originally Posted By cgrant26:
Looks like a nice piece. Adjustable gas blocks in .625 are nearly non-existent so you are sure going to make a lot of LW Carbine people happy. Any plans on doing a .625 railed version in the future? I'd buy one in a heartbeat.


I do plan on offering picatinny versions. I will most likely offer it in a .750 first then the .625.

Jason
wjt1169  [Team Member]
4/10/2012 3:49:00 PM
These look very interesting. Will you be selling them exclusively, or will they be available at other retailers?
Jason_Syrac_Ordnance  [Industry Partner]
4/10/2012 3:50:31 PM
Originally Posted By Gifters:
Jason, in your experience: how much clearance do you need between the gas block and FF rail?


Are you asking about clearance at a certain location between the block and FF (i.e. between the top of the block and the FF). Or are you asking in general at any location?

Jason
Jason_Syrac_Ordnance  [Industry Partner]
4/10/2012 4:03:56 PM
Originally Posted By culaine:
Really like the product only suggestion i would have is on the front of the detent have a small indentation that way you could use an awl or pick to push it in without the chance of it slipping off to the sides


That is a very good point. The detent DOES NOT currently recess into the gas block when it is pressed in. I have gone back and forth about the following idea. I was thinking of adding a feature that does the following. Have the detent recess into the block when it is pressed in. The Hex key would protrude into the gas block detent hole. With the current design it is not that hard to keep the Hex on the detent. I will start testing the new concept and determine if there will be an update.

Jason_Syrac_Ordnance  [Industry Partner]
4/10/2012 4:05:20 PM
Originally Posted By wjt1169:
These look very interesting. Will you be selling them exclusively, or will they be available at other retailers?


Thank you. They are available at other retailers.
OdDuMet  [Team Member]
4/15/2012 6:54:13 PM
Do you have any instructions for how to best adjust it? I just bought one for a 12.5" 6.8 SPC build. The barrel is mid-gas and I bought it bec. I am running it 100% suppressed.

I adjusted the GB based on ejection angle and everything seems fine, but it dawned on me later that the OPS-4 RH side charger upper does not have a brass deflector, so I'm not sure how accurate/useful the conventional wisdom about ejection angle is related to under/over gassed. I dont recall seeing any adjustment instructions, only installation instructions. I got it from Brownells.

Right now it is ejecting at about 3:30. When I started it was about 1:30.
majorpandemic  [Member]
4/19/2012 11:50:58 AM
I picked up both the .750 versions and now have them installed on my Mega Machine/Black Hole Weaponry and Aero Precision Monolithic Upper/White Oak Builds. I pinned White Oak stainless gas tubes to both the blocks.

These are the same size as my PRI and White oak low profile gas blocks I removed... nearly identical and would work even on very shallow free float tube as it would fit under the quite skinny Mega Monolithic upper's tube if it needed to.

Very high quality gas blocks. My plan is to do a little testing/tuning with the Young Manufacturing Super light BCG and a standard National Match BCG. Currently I have adjustable gas blocks on five ARs, two of which I DIY'ed on a Spikes Tactical Mid-Length and a Model1 Dissipater. So far it seems the most dramatic results of an adjustable gas block have occured on a carbine length install, however I have had good results from my Spikes Mid-Length and JP 18" Rifle Length builds.

The method I have been using to adjust the gas system is to shoot from the bench with a single round in the magazine. Shoot, if it locks backs, reduce the gas port pressure (turn the screw in) until the bolt no longer holds back. Then increase until it does hold back for three rounds, then increase gas pressure but a 1/2 turn. Repeat above process from a standing un-rested shooting position. If the bolt fails to hold back at any point, increase the gas pressure by 1/2 turn. After that exercise I have never had an issue. I am still validating, however it seems that if you reduce gas pressures you should also revert to a standard buffer. My Spikes with a H buffer was painful to adjust, but through that process I dropped in a standard buffer and everything worked perfectly at reduced gas pressures where the h buffer would not.

Great product.
majorpandemic  [Member]
4/19/2012 11:51:40 AM
-Deleted-Double Post
Tokoloshe  [Member]
4/21/2012 9:54:13 AM
Can anyone confirm whether this gas block in 0.750 will fit under a DD light rail 9"?

Thanks in advance.

T.
OdDuMet  [Team Member]
4/21/2012 11:08:33 AM
Mine fits under a micro sized Troy VTAC Alpha tube.
badazzar15  [Team Member]
4/21/2012 11:47:25 AM
Originally Posted By Tokoloshe:
Can anyone confirm whether this gas block in 0.750 will fit under a DD light rail 9"?

Thanks in advance.

T.


It will fit with room to spare.
OdDuMet  [Team Member]
4/26/2012 12:25:45 AM
Does anyone have in tuning instructions for these? I guess the Syrac guy is AWOL from here now.
badazzar15  [Team Member]
4/26/2012 10:29:33 PM
Originally Posted By OdDuMet:
Does anyone have in tuning instructions for these? I guess the Syrac guy is AWOL from here now.


Shoot me an email and I'll forward you the instructions.
Jason_Syrac_Ordnance  [Industry Partner]
4/30/2012 4:32:28 PM
Originally Posted By OdDuMet:
Do you have any instructions for how to best adjust it? I just bought one for a 12.5" 6.8 SPC build. The barrel is mid-gas and I bought it bec. I am running it 100% suppressed.

I adjusted the GB based on ejection angle and everything seems fine, but it dawned on me later that the OPS-4 RH side charger upper does not have a brass deflector, so I'm not sure how accurate/useful the conventional wisdom about ejection angle is related to under/over gassed. I dont recall seeing any adjustment instructions, only installation instructions. I got it from Brownells.

Right now it is ejecting at about 3:30. When I started it was about 1:30.


This is how I adjust my personal rifles:

The type of ammo you shoot through your rifle can and usually will make a difference on where you set the gas setting. I start by determining what ammo I am going to use to shoot through that rifle. Or you can use the lowest pressured ammo that you will shoot in the rifle. Using the lowest pressured ammo assures that the rifle will cycle with whatever you put in it. If you set it for the low pressured ammo and run high pressured ammo it might run faster than you want (more recoil). That is why I set it with specific ammo; The ammo I am going to usually shot through that rifle. The great thing about the gas block is that you can adjust it in the field to adjust to the ammo you are using.

I set it while the rifle is dry (no oil). This way when you are shooting it and it gets dirty it will have a bit more force to run. If you set it when it is wet (oiled) and it drys out or gets dirty because of high fired rounds it can slow the carrier down and cause function issues. So, I initially set it while it is dry. The gas hole in the block is totally open when the gas screw is showing three thread out of the front of the gas block. This is your starting position for the gas screw. Three threads showing.

Make sure the rifle is unloaded. Remove the magazine and visually inspect the chamber to make sure there is not a round in the chamber before you attempt to adjust the gas screw!! Remove the magazine, and visually clear the chamber every time you adjust the gas screw.



1. For the first adjustment of the gas screw, screw the screw IN three revolutions. If you need to repeat step 1, as defined in the following steps, then turn the screw IN one revolution. Make sure the screw is locked into place every time you adjust it.

2. Load the rifle with one round in the chamber and the magazine empty but locked in the mag well.

3. Fire a single shot. If the bolt locks back then screw the screw in a half a turn and repeat step 1 thru 3 until the bolt does not lock back. If you need to repeat step 1, then screw in the gas screw in ONE revolution. If the bolt did not lock back go to step 4.

4. If the bolt did not lock back then UNSCREW the screw one quarter of a turn. Load the rifle with one round in the chamber and an empty mag locked in the mag well.

5. Fire the single round. If the bolt locks back you are finished. If the bolt did not lock back then repeat 4 and 5 until the bolt locks back.

6. You can repeat steps 1 thru 5 with an oiled rifle to get the cycle rate down as low as possible.

Revised
BlahBlah  [Team Member]
5/2/2012 9:13:56 AM
Tracking says my .750" Syrac GB will be here on Friday. I'm looking forward to finishing-up the build and getting it to the range!
OdDuMet  [Team Member]
5/21/2012 2:56:45 PM
n/m
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