I'm having a few issues. with # 000583

I took it out again on Sat the 7th had many of the fail to feed failures. Always the same, the bolt is against the case head but the round stopped while entering the chamber causing major case damage with the front of the case bent upward and 2 grooves dug into the case from the bbl extension. By upward I mean trying to enter the chamber hard enough to bend it offset to parallel. I have almost 20 of them that I saved and could not get through a 5-6 round burst and many were 1 or 2.
Colt M-16A1 with either self regulating or adj. reg bbl on. H-2 buffer and quarter size spacer as recommended in manual.
I have fired approx 500 rds now . All either some LC-87 M-855 ( cant remember where i got it) :-) or LC xm-193 09 stamp 55gr and win Q-3131 and also tried some PMC 55gr. The PMC has worked the best so far and is the only 100rd belt to run all the way through. The second belt of PMC gave me stoppages.
I am hoping you might be able to assist me in a solution.
Sincerely
Shawn Stewart

What gas setting did you use?

largest

Look at my failure to feed from links #2 pictures, sounds very similar.

CLW

Shawn,
The issues that you are describing sound very much like either tight links (damaged/deformed/corroded) or insufficient link stripping force. Without the benefit of personal examination, I would lean toward tight links since you indicate that the cases are being deformed. If push-through links are tight then the case cannot strip through them properly and the result is for the cartridge tip to be biased upward from the force of the top bolt lug against the bottom of the cartridge base. If links are somewhat tight then you may experience sluggish function and if they are VERY tight, then it can result in the issues you describe. Please verify that you are using the main action spring that was supplied with your unit and that the links you're using are either marked "ALK", "WM", "IOT" or "S63". Be SURE that you are not attempting to use links marked "MFT". My personal favorite combination is Federal XM-193 or LC M-855 with good clean (new is preferred) links marked "WM" or "ALK". A good source for the ammo is Jamin at Palmetto Armory.

If you try the above and are still experiencing difficulty, then we're happy to have you send it in for diagnoses. Thanks and please keep us posted.

Ares,
How about checking A00664. After following your suggestions it was returned for your inspection/repair on March 11th.
Would this be the normal response to a warranty issue?

I wanted to give an update here since I finally got around to going out with it again. I followed mgdoc8307 advice and picked up an LMG hyd buffer and an MG-34 recoil spring. and tried that combination with fantastic results. It runs at a very even 650-700rpm and the only malfunctions I had were with tula and the self regulating barrel. the tula ran fine in the adjustable barrel. I put 500 rds through it and had a video of it but my camera is a pos and the focus is bad so I won't try to post it.

I did 1 complete 175 rd burst non-stop. and then swapped bbls and did another using PMC bronze 55gr. Then tried the tula and it wouldn't eject completely like its underpowered . After cooling down the first (adjustable) bbl I put it back in and ran the 80 rds in 5-7 rd bursts of tula. When I get a chance to get out again with a friend who had a nice camera I will get a video or 2 and get them posted.

I'm glad my suggestion worked out for you! I'm still having fun with that combo-remains very reliable. MGDOC

Where did you get the MG 34 spring? I'm liking the idea of 650-700 rpm.

Yes, more information please. Also what is this buffer you describe? Is this a full stock or collapsible stock setup?

Factory COLT LMG hydraulic buffer for the 750 open bolt LMG. <http://www.autoweapons.com/photosn/photosjul04/coltbuffer.htm>l
MG-34 mainspring( http://www.robertrtg.com/mg34mainspring.html)
Full length stock with a Magpul PRS on it and don't forget the quarter size spacer but NOT the full length ARES Spacer.
I guess you'll need to cut and paste the links?

$510 ?

Yeah.. My search was quite disappointing.. $350 plus for the buffer.. Not gonna happen.

In a regular M16, the AAC Super Slow rate reducer comes very close to matching the LMG buffer in cyclic rates (only 15 RPM faster per my PACT timer) and is a lot cheaper, but with the Shrike you HAVE to use a stronger spring, so I don't know if it would work with the MG34 spring or not. The diameter of the SS rate reducer (for reasons known only to AAC) is slightly too big for a standard M16 spring, so it has to be turned down to use one. How it would work with the MG34 spring, I have no idea but it's at least a possibility.

Sorry, the SS buffer won't run even turned down to fit the MG 34 spring-I've already tried it! Believe me the Colt buffer I use is the trick-I know it is expensive but so is every thing else about this sport!

I actually bought an Ednine (sp) hyd buffer to try first due to the cost and its a fail. There is something about the weight of the COLT unit that makes all the difference. It's built like a tank. I remember when R-guns had the Colt 750 uppers for 695. and you could get the buffer and green spring for another 125. . I think I'm gonna have to get a set of open bolt fire control parts from D.Todd and get ARES to make a a carrier with the open bolt sear notch in it. That is my next project. I'mgoing out again this weekend and should be able to get a vid or 2 to post.

I had fairly good luck using the Rock River Arms 5.7oz 9mm two piece mechanical buffer ($25).

Did the ednine buffer slow it down a little? Or it didn't work at all? I already have a Ednine carbine buffer standing by to try out when I get my Shrike.

Sorry, the edine hyd.buffer does function either- I've tried it with many different springs and no dice-no function!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the Enidine buffer SSBiggun & mgdoc8307 are referring to here is the full-length buffer..........not the carbine length buffer. In my couple trips to the range with the Enidine installed, the carbine length buffer works very well at both reducing the rate of fire AND smoothing the recoil cycle.

Yesterday was the 1st time I had one of my Shrikes and my MM23e at the range at the same time. Previously, my impression was the MM23e was both smoother and slightly slower than the Shrike with a standard "H" buffer installed in the Shrike.........and smoother at least makes sense b/c the MM23e is quite a bit heavier than the Shrike. The 1st time I had the Shrike at the range with the Enidine installed I didn't take the MM23e b/c I wanted to focus on working with different buffer / spring combos for the Shrike. I found the Shrike was slower and smoother with the Enidine carbine buffer than with the standard buffer............but that was the only comparision I had. Yesterday, I took both to the range and much to my surprise, the Shrike was actually slower and smoother than the MM23e! The Enidine makes a huge difference.....at least in my gun. Am I ready to get rid of the MM23e? H*ll no.......the MM23e is a great weapon and built to a quality standard I would put up against a German gun.......and an absolute joy to shoot. And not that I was dissatisfied with the Shrike before..........I've had my 1st one for almost 6 years now and fell in love with it from day 1. I'm excited I've added another layer of "character" to the platform.

Both the Shrike and MM23e were flawless and the ammo used in both was 62gr Brown Bear

My Shrike was set up on a DPMS lower with RDIAS, ACE M4-7 RET buffer tube with standard Shrike spring with spacer installed.

I also have full-length Enidine and Colt LMG hydraulic buffers........and per mgdoc8307's posts I am going to attempt to get those to work with a mg34 spring / full length buffer tube / standard stock setup. 1st time working with these, I didn't cut the spring and function with both full-length hydraulic buffers was sporatic or not at all........just not enough juice in the system to move those heavy buffers against an uncut mg34 spring. Next time at the range, I will begin to systematically cut coils off the mg34 spring till I get reliable function.......hopefully with both, but will settile for either of the 2. I'm hoping I can get it to run with the Enidine full-length buffer b/c the Colt LMG buffers are hard to find, expensive and eventually will leak down from what I've read and heard.........Enidine's are currently produced and relatively inexpensive.

Anyway, than's my experience thus far......ymmv

That's good to know. I'll start with the recommended H2 buffer than switch to the enedine carbine hydrolic buffer and see what happens.

I've only tried the Enidine full-length buffer in a regular M16 and it didn't do much to slow anything down. I haven't tried it in the Shrike yet.

I just had the Shrike out last Monday and it chugged along fine with the Colt hydraulic buffer and a full-length MG34 spring. I was using a 16" barrel with the gas plug set on position 2. The spring does seem awfully strong, so I wouldn't mind getting info on shortening it some.

I've cut my MG 34 spring down to 34 coils-but I suggest you start by cutting one coil at a time and stop when you are happy with reliability and function and speed.

Thanks for the info. I'll start clipping when I get a chance.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EbVmAEKvS8[/youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EbVmAEKvS8
If you watch the vids it still gave me a couple of FTE's. The case never made it all the way out of the ejection port leaving a partial feed. On the last one I had the barrel so hot I started to worry about cook-off. In 700 rds I had 5 malfunctions all FTE's. Still, not bad compared to what I was getting before. I did try to run the adj bbl on 1 and it will not cycle even on mags. So 2 for mags and 3 for belts.

you do know its not good for the barrel to run off 200rd belts like that?

I wouldent do that myself but its your upper.

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