Archived Posts » 60,595,333
Ruptured cases with CMMG dedicated upper
12/12/2011 9:48:13 PM
I have a dedicated upper with 2-3000 rounds through it. Twice I have experienced ruptured cases.
The first occurred with CCI Mini Mags and it blew the entire rear of the case off.
The second occurred today with CCI Blazers. The case is intact but severely ruptured.
It is obviously firing out of battery, but what can be done to remedy the situation?
The first occurred with CCI Mini Mags and it blew the entire rear of the case off.
The second occurred today with CCI Blazers. The case is intact but severely ruptured.
It is obviously firing out of battery, but what can be done to remedy the situation?
12/12/2011 9:55:33 PM
Out of battery discharge usually occurs due to build up in or around the chamber, keeping the round from fully seating. CMMG recommends buzzing the chamber frequently. Use a bore brush chucked in a drill with oil on it. Run in the chamber until warm. Don't go into the rifling.
Dave N
Dave N
12/12/2011 10:00:43 PM
Definitely firing out of battery. I have experienced it with another brand. Try the technique listed above.
12/12/2011 10:06:21 PM
Thanks Dave. I'll give that a try.
The first rupture occurred during my first session with the upper and within the first 50 rounds.
I figured it just needed a little break in.
Today the rifle should be broken in, but the chamber is very likely dirty.
I have fired about 30 rounds of CCI total through it and had 2 ruptures. It shouldn't take too many rounds to see if buzzing the chamber helps.
The first rupture occurred during my first session with the upper and within the first 50 rounds.
I figured it just needed a little break in.
Today the rifle should be broken in, but the chamber is very likely dirty.
I have fired about 30 rounds of CCI total through it and had 2 ruptures. It shouldn't take too many rounds to see if buzzing the chamber helps.
12/12/2011 10:25:22 PM
Good SUGGESTIONS, Good Luck....
Dave S
Dave S
12/13/2011 1:05:00 AM
.22 rifles do not get cleaned enough. There is always some Mall Commando that swears he has NEVER cleaned his .22 and it runs great. Bad advice! .22 ammo is dirty. There is lube on the bullets and then the dirty powder that escapes on any blow back type firearm. Between the two you get a build up at the mouth of the case. Since the case is moving rearward as the bullet leaves (blow back...remember?) this ring starts to move back every so slightly in the chamber. After a number of rounds this ring will no long allow the next round to fully seat as far forward as it should. Result: The rear of the case is not supported in the chamber and it finally over stresses and pops.
The idea is to never allow the chamber area to get that dirty to begin with. So, disregard anyone who tells you that you don't have to clean your .22 ! I clean mine with some Hoppe's #9 after each range session. On some days I may run several hundred rounds thought the rifle. On those days I will actually run a patch and some cleaner though the barrel after 300 rounds or so. I have a little brush that goes up in the chamber area and I give it a few quick strokes. Back at the home armory (my workshop, actually) I periodically put the brass brush on the drill and, using #9, give it a spin in the chamber area. It must work, my rifles run perfectly each and every time, or at least since I started this regiment.
Prior to this I got burned a couple of times on some days when we put a few too may rounds of some not-so-good ammo thought the .22's. I had four different .22's suffer feeding problems after 300 to 400 rounds in one day. Also, with a certain brand of ammo I had leading in the barrel issues too. It pays NOT to ignore you chambers and barrels.
The idea is to never allow the chamber area to get that dirty to begin with. So, disregard anyone who tells you that you don't have to clean your .22 ! I clean mine with some Hoppe's #9 after each range session. On some days I may run several hundred rounds thought the rifle. On those days I will actually run a patch and some cleaner though the barrel after 300 rounds or so. I have a little brush that goes up in the chamber area and I give it a few quick strokes. Back at the home armory (my workshop, actually) I periodically put the brass brush on the drill and, using #9, give it a spin in the chamber area. It must work, my rifles run perfectly each and every time, or at least since I started this regiment.
Prior to this I got burned a couple of times on some days when we put a few too may rounds of some not-so-good ammo thought the .22's. I had four different .22's suffer feeding problems after 300 to 400 rounds in one day. Also, with a certain brand of ammo I had leading in the barrel issues too. It pays NOT to ignore you chambers and barrels.
12/13/2011 4:41:50 AM
Originally Posted By forever4:
.22 rifles do not get cleaned enough. There is always some Mall Commando that swears he has NEVER cleaned his .22 and it runs great. Bad advice! .22 ammo is dirty. There is lube on the bullets and then the dirty powder that escapes on any blow back type firearm. Between the two you get a build up at the mouth of the case. Since the case is moving rearward as the bullet leaves (blow back...remember?) this ring starts to move back every so slightly in the chamber. After a number of rounds this ring will no long allow the next round to fully seat as far forward as it should. Result: The rear of the case is not supported in the chamber and it finally over stresses and pops.
The idea is to never allow the chamber area to get that dirty to begin with. So, disregard anyone who tells you that you don't have to clean your .22 ! I clean mine with some Hoppe's #9 after each range session. On some days I may run several hundred rounds thought the rifle. On those days I will actually run a patch and some cleaner though the barrel after 300 rounds or so. I have a little brush that goes up in the chamber area and I give it a few quick strokes. Back at the home armory (my workshop, actually) I periodically put the brass brush on the drill and, using #9, give it a spin in the chamber area. It must work, my rifles run perfectly each and every time, or at least since I started this regiment.
Prior to this I got burned a couple of times on some days when we put a few too may rounds of some not-so-good ammo thought the .22's. I had four different .22's suffer feeding problems after 300 to 400 rounds in one day. Also, with a certain brand of ammo I had leading in the barrel issues too. It pays NOT to ignore you chambers and barrels.
.22 rifles do not get cleaned enough. There is always some Mall Commando that swears he has NEVER cleaned his .22 and it runs great. Bad advice! .22 ammo is dirty. There is lube on the bullets and then the dirty powder that escapes on any blow back type firearm. Between the two you get a build up at the mouth of the case. Since the case is moving rearward as the bullet leaves (blow back...remember?) this ring starts to move back every so slightly in the chamber. After a number of rounds this ring will no long allow the next round to fully seat as far forward as it should. Result: The rear of the case is not supported in the chamber and it finally over stresses and pops.
The idea is to never allow the chamber area to get that dirty to begin with. So, disregard anyone who tells you that you don't have to clean your .22 ! I clean mine with some Hoppe's #9 after each range session. On some days I may run several hundred rounds thought the rifle. On those days I will actually run a patch and some cleaner though the barrel after 300 rounds or so. I have a little brush that goes up in the chamber area and I give it a few quick strokes. Back at the home armory (my workshop, actually) I periodically put the brass brush on the drill and, using #9, give it a spin in the chamber area. It must work, my rifles run perfectly each and every time, or at least since I started this regiment.
Prior to this I got burned a couple of times on some days when we put a few too may rounds of some not-so-good ammo thought the .22's. I had four different .22's suffer feeding problems after 300 to 400 rounds in one day. Also, with a certain brand of ammo I had leading in the barrel issues too. It pays NOT to ignore you chambers and barrels.
All true....
12/13/2011 6:59:15 AM
Originally Posted By forever4:
.22 rifles do not get cleaned enough. There is always some Mall Commando that swears he has NEVER cleaned his .22 and it runs great. Bad advice! .22 ammo is dirty. There is lube on the bullets and then the dirty powder that escapes on any blow back type firearm. Between the two you get a build up at the mouth of the case. Since the case is moving rearward as the bullet leaves (blow back...remember?) this ring starts to move back every so slightly in the chamber. After a number of rounds this ring will no long allow the next round to fully seat as far forward as it should. Result: The rear of the case is not supported in the chamber and it finally over stresses and pops.
The idea is to never allow the chamber area to get that dirty to begin with. So, disregard anyone who tells you that you don't have to clean your .22 ! I clean mine with some Hoppe's #9 after each range session. On some days I may run several hundred rounds thought the rifle. On those days I will actually run a patch and some cleaner though the barrel after 300 rounds or so. I have a little brush that goes up in the chamber area and I give it a few quick strokes. Back at the home armory (my workshop, actually) I periodically put the brass brush on the drill and, using #9, give it a spin in the chamber area. It must work, my rifles run perfectly each and every time, or at least since I started this regiment.
Prior to this I got burned a couple of times on some days when we put a few too may rounds of some not-so-good ammo thought the .22's. I had four different .22's suffer feeding problems after 300 to 400 rounds in one day. Also, with a certain brand of ammo I had leading in the barrel issues too. It pays NOT to ignore you chambers and barrels.
.22 rifles do not get cleaned enough. There is always some Mall Commando that swears he has NEVER cleaned his .22 and it runs great. Bad advice! .22 ammo is dirty. There is lube on the bullets and then the dirty powder that escapes on any blow back type firearm. Between the two you get a build up at the mouth of the case. Since the case is moving rearward as the bullet leaves (blow back...remember?) this ring starts to move back every so slightly in the chamber. After a number of rounds this ring will no long allow the next round to fully seat as far forward as it should. Result: The rear of the case is not supported in the chamber and it finally over stresses and pops.
The idea is to never allow the chamber area to get that dirty to begin with. So, disregard anyone who tells you that you don't have to clean your .22 ! I clean mine with some Hoppe's #9 after each range session. On some days I may run several hundred rounds thought the rifle. On those days I will actually run a patch and some cleaner though the barrel after 300 rounds or so. I have a little brush that goes up in the chamber area and I give it a few quick strokes. Back at the home armory (my workshop, actually) I periodically put the brass brush on the drill and, using #9, give it a spin in the chamber area. It must work, my rifles run perfectly each and every time, or at least since I started this regiment.
Prior to this I got burned a couple of times on some days when we put a few too may rounds of some not-so-good ammo thought the .22's. I had four different .22's suffer feeding problems after 300 to 400 rounds in one day. Also, with a certain brand of ammo I had leading in the barrel issues too. It pays NOT to ignore you chambers and barrels.
I won't argue that point. But I will say that I have ruger, marlin and various other .22's that I have fired 10's and 10's of thousands of .22's through and have never had a ruptured .22 case before....ever...and yes they are dirty and don't get cleaned often enough. Failure to fire is one thing...failure to feed is another...explosions that close to the face due to firing out of battery is a totally different issue.
12/13/2011 10:57:05 PM
Prior to this I got burned a couple of times on some days when we put a few too may rounds of some not-so-good ammo thought the .22's. I had four different .22's suffer feeding problems after 300 to 400 rounds in one day. Also, with a certain brand of ammo I had leading in the barrel issues too. It pays NOT to ignore you chambers and barrels.
"I won't argue that point. But I will say that I have ruger, marlin and various other .22's that I have fired 10's and 10's of thousands of .22's through and have never had a ruptured .22 case before....ever...and yes they are dirty and don't get cleaned often enough. Failure to fire is one thing...failure to feed is another...explosions that close to the face due to firing out of battery is a totally different issue."
You are 100% correct in what you say about explosions next to your face being dangerous. No rational person would argue that. BUT, go back to your original question, the part where you ask:
"but what can be done to remedy the situation? "
The answer was presented in great detail. Clean the rifle. Now, its easy to tell the tale of the Ruger 10/22 that shot XXX thousands of rounds and never got cleaned. The problem with that argument is, you are shooting a .22 AR, not a Ruger 10/22 or a Marlin 60 , etc. For the record those rifles have failed due to not being cleaned. Maybe not yours or your buddies or your cousin's friend's sister-in-law's old man's rifle, but there are example of them failing. I know.....mine have...and it was due to fouling of the ammo in the barrel. I am happy for anyone who has not had this occur. But, I have had it turn up in four of my .22's over the years, mainly due to ammo that left some lead in the barrel. One example occurred during a range session with a firearm that started perfectly clean. After about 200-300 rounds that day the gun started getting very inaccurate and not functioning well. Anyway, it was dirt and lead in the mouth of the chamber and I was reminded of a valuable lesson, check the barrel often and clean as needed.
Now, a Ruger 10/22 was designed from day one to be a .22. A Model 60 was designed from the start to be a .22. When Mr. Stoner finished work on the AR 10 (pappy to the AR-15) in 1955 he did not have a .22 rimfire in mind. The .22 part came years later as a modification. If we were designing a new .22 AR today we could build in all sorts of features, such as an interlock that would not let the hammer fall unless the bolt was fully into battery. But, since the .22 AR upper has to work with a lower that was designed over 50 years ago to be a center-fire rifle we have compromises. We are working with a lower and upper that was set in stone (Mil-spec) before we got there. We have to adapt a magazine to work with with this setup but feed a cartridge it was never intended to feed. Same for the bolt. The AR was not designed for the rails and bolts we have today. Eugene just didn't plan all the features you want today.
So, we have some options here. 1) we could totally redesign the lower and upper with interlocks that would prevent the action from firing unless the bolt was fully into battery. 2) we could redesign the lower so that if the hammer fell before the bolt was fully into battery it would strike the bolt in such a fashion as to not contact the firing pin. (similar to #1) This might require extensive modifications. In fact, if we do items 1 and 2 we might be better off to just design an all new firearm and throw out the old AR-15 parts all together.
OR,. the simple answer to your original question "but what can be done to remedy the situation? " is quite clear....we could just clean the darn rifle periodically and eliminate all the problems. And I add part two to the answer: If you want a .22 rifle you don't have to clean....go shoot a Ruger 10/22 or a Marlin 60. (But...they will still get dirty and malfunction under certain conditions and with certain ammo). Do some research on the Remington 597 in .17 Mag or the Ruger 10/22's that were converted to .17 Mach2. They ran into serious issues with OBD if not cleaned regularly. Again, a rifle that was modified from its original designed caliber.
The question was asked and it was answered. Regular cleaning solves the problem. If you don't want to clean it, shoot something else or redesign the rifle. With proper care, it works and works great for many thousands of rounds. Its NOT a Ruger 10/22 so comparisons between the two are a pointless exercise. Every machine is different and at times we have to adapt to the needs of the machine we are using.
12/13/2011 11:22:57 PM
Some links on cleaning of .22's. These guys are not as nice to the poster as I am. His OBD was in a .22 Smith:
Cleaning your .22
In that thread one person replied:
"And finally, for Goddess sake, DO NOT think of this as a Ruger 10-22, or insert whatever .22LR rifle that “feeds anything and 100% reliable”, with a new exterior and then proceed to bag on how it does not measure up. If you wish to get a Ruger 10-22 or what have you get that instead instead of bagging on a rifle that quite a few of us are happy with warts and all."
The point is: Its a machine. It needs care. An AK-47 can be beat to pieces, full of dirt, etc. and still function where a M-4 (M-16) would have jammed and quit. Does that make the AK the better firearm? If you plan on running it dirty and not maintaining it, then "yes". But then the AK was designed for a bunch of illiterate and poorly trained troops. The AR rifles are much more accurate and better machined but also require maintenance. Give me accurate....I can spare five minutes to inspect and clean my firearm.
Cleaning your .22
In that thread one person replied:
"And finally, for Goddess sake, DO NOT think of this as a Ruger 10-22, or insert whatever .22LR rifle that “feeds anything and 100% reliable”, with a new exterior and then proceed to bag on how it does not measure up. If you wish to get a Ruger 10-22 or what have you get that instead instead of bagging on a rifle that quite a few of us are happy with warts and all."
The point is: Its a machine. It needs care. An AK-47 can be beat to pieces, full of dirt, etc. and still function where a M-4 (M-16) would have jammed and quit. Does that make the AK the better firearm? If you plan on running it dirty and not maintaining it, then "yes". But then the AK was designed for a bunch of illiterate and poorly trained troops. The AR rifles are much more accurate and better machined but also require maintenance. Give me accurate....I can spare five minutes to inspect and clean my firearm.
12/14/2011 4:39:13 PM
I know many have their own methods and reasons for the cleaning, or lack of cleaning
of their firearms, and will do as they wish. I offer an alternate method to buzzing that
is very low in risk to the chamber. For those who are in a rush, you won't like this because it takes 20 minutes.
1) Using a coated one piece rod and your AR bore guide, attach a good (not
worn out) brush soaked in a bore cleaner that is compatible with your barrel (remember
some cleaners will actually eat stainless steel) and partially insert it in the chamber so
only the last few bristles show. Now give it another dose of cleaner, then slowly run it out the bore,
and remove the brush, withdraw the rod and guide. This scores the residue and makes it easy for
your cleaner to get under it and separate it from the metal. It helps if the barrel is warm.
2) Wrap a Q-tip with a patch and soak it with cleaner. Insert the Q-tip in the chamber where the rifling
meets the chamber. Let it sit for ten minutes, pull out the Q-tip, the patch should stay in the bore. You can
also use just a soaked bore mop, just don't run it past the chamber until ten minutes have passed, you want the chemical
to have time to work.
3) Get your guide, rod, and screw a jag on the rod and push the patch (if you used one) all the way out the muzzle. Soak
a new patch with cleaner and run it out. Soak another patch with your choice of gun oil ( I use CLP but
any quality gun oil will do). Then run a dry patch and you are done.
This will get all but the most severly caked and hardened residue out of the chamber and remove fouling from the bore
in the process without doing the buzz or intensive bore cleaning.
Ted
of their firearms, and will do as they wish. I offer an alternate method to buzzing that
is very low in risk to the chamber. For those who are in a rush, you won't like this because it takes 20 minutes.
1) Using a coated one piece rod and your AR bore guide, attach a good (not
worn out) brush soaked in a bore cleaner that is compatible with your barrel (remember
some cleaners will actually eat stainless steel) and partially insert it in the chamber so
only the last few bristles show. Now give it another dose of cleaner, then slowly run it out the bore,
and remove the brush, withdraw the rod and guide. This scores the residue and makes it easy for
your cleaner to get under it and separate it from the metal. It helps if the barrel is warm.
2) Wrap a Q-tip with a patch and soak it with cleaner. Insert the Q-tip in the chamber where the rifling
meets the chamber. Let it sit for ten minutes, pull out the Q-tip, the patch should stay in the bore. You can
also use just a soaked bore mop, just don't run it past the chamber until ten minutes have passed, you want the chemical
to have time to work.
3) Get your guide, rod, and screw a jag on the rod and push the patch (if you used one) all the way out the muzzle. Soak
a new patch with cleaner and run it out. Soak another patch with your choice of gun oil ( I use CLP but
any quality gun oil will do). Then run a dry patch and you are done.
This will get all but the most severly caked and hardened residue out of the chamber and remove fouling from the bore
in the process without doing the buzz or intensive bore cleaning.
Ted
12/14/2011 6:09:37 PM
I use "Spray Brake Cleaner" on all of my AR's from .22LR to .458 Socom,
then a coat of Hoppe's #9 (a dab behind each ear)
On a trip to the range for "heavy fire time" I carry a pocket oiler of ATF.
Burns like H@ll if you get it in your eyes.
Works for me...Jack...
then a coat of Hoppe's #9 (a dab behind each ear)
On a trip to the range for "heavy fire time" I carry a pocket oiler of ATF.
Burns like H@ll if you get it in your eyes.
Works for me...Jack...
12/15/2011 10:47:01 AM
Originally Posted By AFSC2W171Z:
I know many have their own methods and reasons for the cleaning, or lack of cleaning
of their firearms, and will do as they wish. I offer an alternate method to buzzing that
is very low in risk to the chamber. For those who are in a rush, you won't like this because it takes 20 minutes.
1) Using a coated one piece rod and your AR bore guide, attach a good (not
worn out) brush soaked in a bore cleaner that is compatible with your barrel (remember
some cleaners will actually eat stainless steel) and partially insert it in the chamber so
only the last few bristles show. Now give it another dose of cleaner, then slowly run it out the bore,
and remove the brush, withdraw the rod and guide. This scores the residue and makes it easy for
your cleaner to get under it and separate it from the metal. It helps if the barrel is warm.
2) Wrap a Q-tip with a patch and soak it with cleaner. Insert the Q-tip in the chamber where the rifling
meets the chamber. Let it sit for ten minutes, pull out the Q-tip, the patch should stay in the bore. You can
also use just a soaked bore mop, just don't run it past the chamber until ten minutes have passed, you want the chemical
to have time to work.
3) Get your guide, rod, and screw a jag on the rod and push the patch (if you used one) all the way out the muzzle. Soak
a new patch with cleaner and run it out. Soak another patch with your choice of gun oil ( I use CLP but
any quality gun oil will do). Then run a dry patch and you are done.
This will get all but the most severly caked and hardened residue out of the chamber and remove fouling from the bore
in the process without doing the buzz or intensive bore cleaning.
Ted
I know many have their own methods and reasons for the cleaning, or lack of cleaning
of their firearms, and will do as they wish. I offer an alternate method to buzzing that
is very low in risk to the chamber. For those who are in a rush, you won't like this because it takes 20 minutes.
1) Using a coated one piece rod and your AR bore guide, attach a good (not
worn out) brush soaked in a bore cleaner that is compatible with your barrel (remember
some cleaners will actually eat stainless steel) and partially insert it in the chamber so
only the last few bristles show. Now give it another dose of cleaner, then slowly run it out the bore,
and remove the brush, withdraw the rod and guide. This scores the residue and makes it easy for
your cleaner to get under it and separate it from the metal. It helps if the barrel is warm.
2) Wrap a Q-tip with a patch and soak it with cleaner. Insert the Q-tip in the chamber where the rifling
meets the chamber. Let it sit for ten minutes, pull out the Q-tip, the patch should stay in the bore. You can
also use just a soaked bore mop, just don't run it past the chamber until ten minutes have passed, you want the chemical
to have time to work.
3) Get your guide, rod, and screw a jag on the rod and push the patch (if you used one) all the way out the muzzle. Soak
a new patch with cleaner and run it out. Soak another patch with your choice of gun oil ( I use CLP but
any quality gun oil will do). Then run a dry patch and you are done.
This will get all but the most severly caked and hardened residue out of the chamber and remove fouling from the bore
in the process without doing the buzz or intensive bore cleaning.
Ted
Ted, great procedure. The soaking really helps and allows you to need less of that brushing that some dislike as they feel it wears the bore. Many people don't want to take the time to do this but it works. Thanks for sharing.
BTW, the buzzing of the bore was done as some rifles had a chamber that was not as smooth as they could be. The buzzing helped make them slick and eject better. Once that is done normal cleaning becomes a simpler task.
12/15/2011 10:48:48 AM
Originally Posted By Kacee:
I use "Spray Brake Cleaner" on all of my AR's from .22LR to .458 Socom,
then a coat of Hoppe's #9 (a dab behind each ear)
On a trip to the range for "heavy fire time" I carry a pocket oiler of ATF.
Burns like H@ll if you get it in your eyes.
Works for me...Jack...
I use "Spray Brake Cleaner" on all of my AR's from .22LR to .458 Socom,
then a coat of Hoppe's #9 (a dab behind each ear)
On a trip to the range for "heavy fire time" I carry a pocket oiler of ATF.
Burns like H@ll if you get it in your eyes.
Works for me...Jack...
Many people don't know about the virtues of ATF. Its a light clean oil with a high concentration of detergent (cleaner). It works great on breaking up deposits and also for cleaning up rust. Great stuff to use on firearms, I keep a bottle of it in my shop.
12/15/2011 2:28:54 PM
Originally Posted By forever4:
Many people don't know about the virtues of ATF. Its a light clean oil with a high concentration of detergent (cleaner). It works great on breaking up deposits and also for cleaning up rust. Great stuff to use on firearms, I keep a bottle of it in my shop.
Originally Posted By Kacee:
I use "Spray Brake Cleaner" on all of my AR's from .22LR to .458 Socom,
then a coat of Hoppe's #9 (a dab behind each ear)
On a trip to the range for "heavy fire time" I carry a pocket oiler of ATF.
Burns like H@ll if you get it in your eyes.
Works for me...Jack...
I use "Spray Brake Cleaner" on all of my AR's from .22LR to .458 Socom,
then a coat of Hoppe's #9 (a dab behind each ear)
On a trip to the range for "heavy fire time" I carry a pocket oiler of ATF.
Burns like H@ll if you get it in your eyes.
Works for me...Jack...
Many people don't know about the virtues of ATF. Its a light clean oil with a high concentration of detergent (cleaner). It works great on breaking up deposits and also for cleaning up rust. Great stuff to use on firearms, I keep a bottle of it in my shop.
What is it exactly?
12/15/2011 3:57:19 PM
ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid
Why is it great? Well, millions of dollars in research went into developing this stuff. Its a light weight, about 7W in car terms, oil. Nice and thin, but with good lube qualities. After all, think about automatic transmission that has to work right at 30 below zero or at over 200 above.
Next, think about the inside of the automatic transmission. It is a hydraulic computer with sensitive valves and small parts that have to be perfectly clean and rust free. ATF contains additives to desolve rust, varnish and corrosion and keep parts clean and lubricated. Its a great thing to clean parts with. In fact, when we work on dirty car parts you can actually "wash" your hands with it as it will desolve all the dirt and grime and wipe off leaving you clean.
Give it a try. You can buy a whole quart of it for a couple of bucks. Of course your local gun shop would much rather sell you four ounces of snake oil for eight bucks.
Why is it great? Well, millions of dollars in research went into developing this stuff. Its a light weight, about 7W in car terms, oil. Nice and thin, but with good lube qualities. After all, think about automatic transmission that has to work right at 30 below zero or at over 200 above.
Next, think about the inside of the automatic transmission. It is a hydraulic computer with sensitive valves and small parts that have to be perfectly clean and rust free. ATF contains additives to desolve rust, varnish and corrosion and keep parts clean and lubricated. Its a great thing to clean parts with. In fact, when we work on dirty car parts you can actually "wash" your hands with it as it will desolve all the dirt and grime and wipe off leaving you clean.
Give it a try. You can buy a whole quart of it for a couple of bucks. Of course your local gun shop would much rather sell you four ounces of snake oil for eight bucks.
12/15/2011 4:40:00 PM
I do not like any "liquid" lube at all for our Stainless CMMG..Use Rem Drilube..After cleaning spray
the bolt assembly,a little shot of it in the chamber as well as it keeps any buildup from sticking in there also..
Great stuff for .22 bolts..Liquid Lube in a .22 is just asking trouble in my opinion,we have shot tens of thousands of rounds though .22s and this stuff just works...
Give Rem Drilube a try you will like how clean everything stays after shooting many many rounds through the rifle..Never had any ill effects or wear from using it..Just the opposite,seems to not wear at all...It is
a teflon based lubricant....
the bolt assembly,a little shot of it in the chamber as well as it keeps any buildup from sticking in there also..
Great stuff for .22 bolts..Liquid Lube in a .22 is just asking trouble in my opinion,we have shot tens of thousands of rounds though .22s and this stuff just works...
Give Rem Drilube a try you will like how clean everything stays after shooting many many rounds through the rifle..Never had any ill effects or wear from using it..Just the opposite,seems to not wear at all...It is
a teflon based lubricant....
12/15/2011 5:51:39 PM
Rem Dry lube is great stuff. For those who do not use it, you can get it at WalMart and other fine gun stores. (Dick's Sporting Goods, etc.). Be sure you shake it up well before using each time as the Teflon settles to the bottom. The ATF I mentioned is for cleaning purposes. True, some lube with it and it works great. But on a .22 that runs so dirty, a good dry lube is a wise investment.
12/15/2011 7:40:45 PM
I've looked for the dry lube and just can't seem to find it around here.
12/15/2011 8:21:47 PM
Its actually named RemDriLube..My local Walmart only carrys the spray Rem Oil in the can.I tried to get Walmart here to carry it but they said we will check on it and nothing ever comes of it..I have a local Sporting goods store order it for me,he never heard of it before I asked him to order some..Hes nice enough to order a case in occasionally for me,he does carry other Rem products just not this stuff..Theres only 6 cans in a case but it is about 7.00 a 4 ounce can from my guy locally..
Goes a long ways though even in the little can..You can usually find it online by the case for about 5.00 to 6.00 a can...Bass Pro Shops usually have it in stock if theres one of those close by.....
Goes a long ways though even in the little can..You can usually find it online by the case for about 5.00 to 6.00 a can...Bass Pro Shops usually have it in stock if theres one of those close by.....
12/15/2011 11:49:26 PM
Originally Posted By shadowcop:
I've looked for the dry lube and just can't seem to find it around here.
I've looked for the dry lube and just can't seem to find it around here.
I thought I got mine at WalMart...but that may have been the Rem Oil. There are other Teflon lubes out there. I will look up the ones I have and where to get them. I know they all came from common stores like Dick's, Lowes, HomeDepot, or WalMart.
12/16/2011 1:51:28 PM
Originally Posted By forever4:
ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid
Why is it great? Well, millions of dollars in research went into developing this stuff. Its a light weight, about 7W in car terms, oil. Nice and thin, but with good lube qualities. After all, think about automatic transmission that has to work right at 30 below zero or at over 200 above.
Next, think about the inside of the automatic transmission. It is a hydraulic computer with sensitive valves and small parts that have to be perfectly clean and rust free. ATF contains additives to desolve rust, varnish and corrosion and keep parts clean and lubricated. Its a great thing to clean parts with. In fact, when we work on dirty car parts you can actually "wash" your hands with it as it will desolve all the dirt and grime and wipe off leaving you clean.
Give it a try. You can buy a whole quart of it for a couple of bucks. Of course your local gun shop would much rather sell you four ounces of snake oil for eight bucks.
ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid
Why is it great? Well, millions of dollars in research went into developing this stuff. Its a light weight, about 7W in car terms, oil. Nice and thin, but with good lube qualities. After all, think about automatic transmission that has to work right at 30 below zero or at over 200 above.
Next, think about the inside of the automatic transmission. It is a hydraulic computer with sensitive valves and small parts that have to be perfectly clean and rust free. ATF contains additives to desolve rust, varnish and corrosion and keep parts clean and lubricated. Its a great thing to clean parts with. In fact, when we work on dirty car parts you can actually "wash" your hands with it as it will desolve all the dirt and grime and wipe off leaving you clean.
Give it a try. You can buy a whole quart of it for a couple of bucks. Of course your local gun shop would much rather sell you four ounces of snake oil for eight bucks.
lol... I'll give it a go... I already use High Temp Wheel bearing grease (and have done so for years)... lol
Hell grease I can ALWAYS find, it costs ~$1.50 for a 1lb tub... Anyway, I'm going to try ATF..
12/17/2011 8:54:48 PM
I "buzzed" the chamber as suggested and it seems to have worked. I fired some 250 Blazers without issue. I also miked some CCI and Federal casings fired from the CMMG upper.
The CCI's casings are slightly longer and the bullet has a significantly longer bearing surface. I suspect that as long as one shoots the same brand of ammo, these issues will occur much less often.
Firing cartridges that have longer casings and/or longer bearing surfaces after firing shorter ones may cause issues sooner than expected. (reminiscent of the steel case / brass case issues in .223)
The CCI Blazers group significantly better than the Federal bulk packs. I'll continue to experiment and post results. I plan to fire Blazers until another ruptured case occurs (or 500 rds...whichever comes first)
Thanks for the advice.
The CCI's casings are slightly longer and the bullet has a significantly longer bearing surface. I suspect that as long as one shoots the same brand of ammo, these issues will occur much less often.
Firing cartridges that have longer casings and/or longer bearing surfaces after firing shorter ones may cause issues sooner than expected. (reminiscent of the steel case / brass case issues in .223)
The CCI Blazers group significantly better than the Federal bulk packs. I'll continue to experiment and post results. I plan to fire Blazers until another ruptured case occurs (or 500 rds...whichever comes first)
Thanks for the advice.
12/17/2011 9:35:23 PM
Good to hear.
