AR15.Com Archives
 Help me mount an Ed Fong to the exterior wall. Revised PVC Mount
danpass  [Team Member]
1/28/2012 9:34:20 PM
So I'm looking to mount one of these LINK


to here







That shorter overhang requires at least 18in to clear the roof. My idea so far is to mount something like this with concrete screws. I saw some heavy duty brackets in Home Depot but I didn't know how much hang I needed. What you see is a simple plywood box (open at two ends) with thru holes, an upper and a lower to provide leverage to the PVC pipe. This box would be mounted to the brackets.







Thoughts?





eta: mounted to vent instead








.






eta2: Mount revised





NUCdt04  [Team Member]
1/28/2012 9:50:44 PM
keep the penis away from the antenna








how is the underside of the roof there? you may be able to do a flat bracket sticking out bolted into the bottom of the overhang easier than into the wall
danpass  [Team Member]
1/28/2012 10:03:07 PM
its wooden, probably just 1/2in, so I like the security of the going into the cinderblock.
SCWolverine  [Team Member]
1/28/2012 10:07:58 PM


I'd go with something like that. You have a minimum of 12" from the bottom of the Antenna/PVC to mount (see pics in my thread) before you begin to mess with the signal (according to Fong). This antenna is VERY lightweight and shouldn't cause any trouble with a wind load!

Look Here just found through a Start-page search (18" and 24" offsets avail). YMMV I know they sell 'em at Radio Shack.

Bolt it up with masonry screws and you're Golden!

ETA: you could mount the antenna on a piece or two+ of antenna mast and the mast into the wall mount.

danpass  [Team Member]
1/28/2012 10:16:33 PM
interdasting .... and ready-made of course


is there any benefit in expansion (like for an HF antenna) to my design in the op?
Jax2Chl  [Team Member]
1/29/2012 5:24:15 AM
Just remember that Ed Fong advises in his article in the February 2003 issue of QST ...

"The antenna should be supported only by the lower 12 inches of the housing to avoid interaction between the matching stub and any nearby metal, such as an antenna or tower."
SCWolverine  [Team Member]
1/29/2012 9:39:05 AM
Originally Posted By Jax2Chl:
Just remember that Ed Fong advises in his article in the February 2003 issue of QST ...

"The antenna should be supported only by the lower 12 inches of the housing to avoid interaction between the matching stub and any nearby metal, such as an antenna or tower."


that was exactly what I was trying to convey in my struck through post earlier! Thanks Jax2Chl for clearing that up
danpass  [Team Member]
2/8/2012 8:51:25 PM
Originally Posted By SCWolverine:
http://www.dennysantennaservice.com/image/14402054.jpg

I'd go with something like that. You have a minimum of 12" from the bottom of the Antenna/PVC to mount (see pics in my thread) before you begin to mess with the signal (according to Fong). This antenna is VERY lightweight and shouldn't cause any trouble with a wind load!

Look Here just found through a Start-page search (18" and 24" offsets avail). YMMV I know they sell 'em at Radio Shack.

Bolt it up with masonry screws and you're Golden!

ETA: you could mount the antenna on a piece or two+ of antenna mast and the mast into the wall mount.

http://www.fotolode.com/images/SCWolverine/1201010002.jpg


ok the Ed Fong recommendation is 0.75 pipe. These mounts are for 1.25 pipe.

Recommendations for filling that gap and remain secure?
SCWolverine  [Team Member]
2/8/2012 9:40:14 PM
i used a piece of 2x4 ripped down as a wedge of sorts to fill the difference between the mast and antenna body (pipe). anything non-conductive should work...howabout a foam pool noodle...I don't know, get creative
pcsutton  [Team Member]
2/8/2012 10:10:51 PM
How about a piece of 3" schedule 80 to a flange bolted to the wall? You can cut it as long as you want, drill it for the antenna, route the coax through it, and put a cap on the outside end.

You can even paint the pvc pipe to match the soffits.

JoeRedman  [Team Member]
2/8/2012 10:19:05 PM
Originally Posted By danpass:
Originally Posted By SCWolverine:
http://www.dennysantennaservice.com/image/14402054.jpg

I'd go with something like that. You have a minimum of 12" from the bottom of the Antenna/PVC to mount (see pics in my thread) before you begin to mess with the signal (according to Fong). This antenna is VERY lightweight and shouldn't cause any trouble with a wind load!

Look Here just found through a Start-page search (18" and 24" offsets avail). YMMV I know they sell 'em at Radio Shack.

Bolt it up with masonry screws and you're Golden!

ETA: you could mount the antenna on a piece or two+ of antenna mast and the mast into the wall mount.

http://www.fotolode.com/images/SCWolverine/1201010002.jpg


ok the Ed Fong recommendation is 0.75 pipe. These mounts are for 1.25 pipe.

Recommendations for filling that gap and remain secure?

Ductape?
danpass  [Team Member]
2/9/2012 4:02:42 PM
what diameter PVC will fit over the ed fong base?

I'm thinking of extending the 5ft section higher by slipping a larger section over the base area. This will also fit the SCWolverine clamp setup better.
danpass  [Team Member]
2/12/2012 10:07:58 AM
coax/PL-259 question:

I've google around some and wonder if this is the best example of how to terminate the ends:

http://www.hamuniverse.com/ve3vdcpl259.html

Equip list:

Razor blade. I tend to roll thick cable onto a blade for a clean cut. No rush. I don't have such a large stripper anyway lol
RG-8X equivalent from wireman.
PL-259 connector
Adapter sleeve (just like in URL)
No ferrites. Ed Fong said I wouldn't need them
Adhesive heat shrink to cover the connection
SCWolverine  [Team Member]
2/12/2012 10:39:25 AM
this



Cheapest best easy to obtain way I've found YMMV
danpass  [Team Member]
2/12/2012 11:44:20 AM
the cutting part was the least of my concerns


simple razor knife




danpass  [Team Member]
2/12/2012 11:47:00 AM
now I'm guessing that I leave a little bit of white as a gap (as mentioned in the url) and remove the foil from that area.

I think my cut is too close (see close up)
A_Free_Man  [Team Member]
2/12/2012 12:13:40 PM
First, you missed the most important thing.

First you slide on the reducer.

Then you slide on the shell.

Then you cut and trim, solder, etc.

But you must slide on the reducer and shell first thing.

Like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7m4fhs__kAI Pt 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xX6zOGP0RY4 Pt 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzXXjzmA-IE with Scott Robinson (formerly with Ten-Tec, now Vibroplex keys)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1nabA6yMoI with Scott Robinson (formerly with Ten-Tec, now Vibroplex keys)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jlPcBVg45E Pt 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agkP9YMR3Kc Pt 2

danpass  [Team Member]
2/12/2012 12:53:44 PM
Ok thanks.

I understand the concept better now, as to WHY certain things go in certain places.

I think I'll stick with the method listed in that URL lol



I need to heed the words of the first sentence in the URL I linked:

"A lot has been written over the years about the correct way to install PL259 connectors on coaxial cable. Entire flame wars have taken place on the internet and on-air about this delicate and often confusing topic."
jackinil  [Team Member]
2/12/2012 1:58:40 PM
Originally Posted By danpass:
what diameter PVC will fit over the ed fong base?

I'm thinking of extending the 5ft section higher by slipping a larger section over the base area. This will also fit the SCWolverine clamp setup better.


Here's what I did. Glued a tee with a 3/4 t0 1" adapter.Ran the coax out the tee.The bottom 12" of 1" pvc is attached to the wood with clamps.
danpass  [Team Member]
2/12/2012 7:33:34 PM
see op
HomeSlice  [Team Member]
2/12/2012 8:01:30 PM
That looks like a plumbing vent to me. I wouldn't plug it up...
stanprophet09  [Team Member]
2/12/2012 8:30:46 PM
Originally Posted By danpass:
What am I looking at here? (it is PVC)

Is it a viable mounting position lol?

The best I could measure, it is 2" OD and 1.75" ID. I can stick the PVC pipe in about 6"


http://www.danpassaro.com/img/s11/v36/p614574112.jpg

http://www.danpassaro.com/img/s3/v40/p855401716.jpg


You could mount it directly to the pipe using a stainless hose clamps
danpass  [Team Member]
2/12/2012 8:34:01 PM
that crossed my mind too lol
stanprophet09  [Team Member]
2/12/2012 8:35:29 PM
Page 14 of this manual.

http://manuals.solidsignal.com/AntInstallGuide.pdf
SCWolverine  [Team Member]
2/13/2012 8:41:45 AM
Originally Posted By stanprophet09:
Page 14 of this manual.

http://manuals.solidsignal.com/AntInstallGuide.pdf


That-Again!

and again

danpass  [Team Member]
2/13/2012 11:39:45 AM
Antenna has arrived
SCWolverine  [Team Member]
2/13/2012 11:51:33 AM
ok, so like in 5 min you'll be back and it'll be assembled....easiest thing you'll do all day

for kicks, tie a little rope around the top end and toss over a branch and pull up/tie off.

it'll get you by. or tag onto you ext ladder:



edit:moar bad speeling
danpass  [Team Member]
2/17/2012 11:55:02 PM
Originally Posted By A_Free_Man:
First, you missed the most important thing.

First you slide on the reducer.

Then you slide on the shell.

Then you cut and trim, solder, etc.


despite my earlier statement I went with this method.

As I played with it further it became pretty obvious, that while the other connection is fine electrically, doing it this way provides more mechanical advantage to the connection.


It worked the first time

What a relief


So yeah I terminated the entire length and haven't yet drilled thru cinderblock. I'm trying to avoid drilling at all anyway so maybe I can snake it in the house thru somewhere else, we'll see lol.

I'll probably keep this as my portable PL-259 cable. It is wireman's RG-8x so I think I'll go with the -400 equivalent from wireman and then drill.


I ended up strapping the Ed Fong to that vent on the outside.

So yeah, in the dark ..................... ran the cable ...... in the dark


Got some good signal reports.

I'll get some digital hieroglyphs in the morning.

danpass  [Team Member]
2/18/2012 8:41:13 AM
see op
phurba  [Life Member]
2/18/2012 2:03:46 PM
Are those zip ties or cable clamps? Most plastics aren't UV stable so they'll break down after a while. What are you using for a ground plane? Or does that antenna not need one?
SCWolverine  [Team Member]
2/18/2012 2:53:07 PM
no ground plane required on the Fong PVC...Love mine
danpass  [Team Member]
2/18/2012 3:44:27 PM
Those are zip ties

Will metal clamps be a lightning issue at all (or it doesn't matter in this case because the antenna overshadows?)
phurba  [Life Member]
2/18/2012 3:58:26 PM
Originally Posted By danpass:
Those are zip ties

Will metal clamps be a lightning issue at all (or it doesn't matter in this case because the antenna overshadows?)


The antenna is full of metal You should still disconnect (and preferably ground) the antenna when there's a chance of lightning or high winds.
danpass  [Team Member]
2/18/2012 4:56:52 PM
Ok. I figured it wouldn't matter since its already sticking up in the air lol.

Disconnect coax from unit I take it?

For the foreseeable future I'll be running a rig 'by appointment' lol. Whenever I want to get on the air I'll be connecting the rig at that time. The line is just coming into the living room
danpass  [Team Member]
2/25/2012 11:15:33 PM
Does an N connector fit onto the antenna?

Are 259 and N interchangeable?
HomeSlice  [Team Member]
2/25/2012 11:29:37 PM

Originally Posted By danpass:

Are 259 and N interchangeable?

No. Not even close. Apples and buicks.

JoeRedman  [Team Member]
2/26/2012 10:56:10 AM
Originally Posted By HomeSlice:

Originally Posted By danpass:

Are 259 and N interchangeable?

No. Not even close. Apples and buicks.



danpass  [Team Member]
2/26/2012 4:11:45 PM
revised PVC mount in op
Mojo_Jojo  [Team Member]
2/26/2012 4:59:45 PM

Originally Posted By danpass:
revised PVC mount in op

Nice looking mount. Not sure if those two bolts are big enough though....
danpass  [Team Member]
2/26/2012 5:29:50 PM
Originally Posted By Mojo_Jojo:

Originally Posted By danpass:
revised PVC mount in op

Nice looking mount. Not sure if those two bolts are big enough though....

friggen Home Depot ............. stainless 1/4x20 ......too long or too short