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Any machinests with a mill, CNC router, waterjet or ...? Trying to get a couple parts made...
6/15/2012 8:49:58 PM
Trying to get a few parts made for my super budget minded desktop CNC router I designed. Its based off the ShapeOko, and just a test bed design for further exploration with 3 and 4 axis CNC tables.
I'm looking for the following:
.25" THK steel
4x of the X-Axis Plates
3x of the vertical risers
1x Z-Axis Motor Mount
FINISH: Raw, deburred if you feel bored and squirrely.
This is my first desktop CNC I'm building and will be a testbed for bigger designs down the road. I have SLDPRT and DXFs of the parts, and would REALLY appreciate someone help in getting me started in exploring homebrew CNCs.
I'm looking for the following:
.25" THK steel
4x of the X-Axis Plates
3x of the vertical risers
1x Z-Axis Motor Mount
FINISH: Raw, deburred if you feel bored and squirrely.
This is my first desktop CNC I'm building and will be a testbed for bigger designs down the road. I have SLDPRT and DXFs of the parts, and would REALLY appreciate someone help in getting me started in exploring homebrew CNCs.
6/19/2012 7:52:18 PM
BTT? Any love?
6/19/2012 7:56:12 PM
All I can do is wood. 
I'm building another CNC tho. Hopefully, I'll be able to do some light aluminum cutting with it.
I'm building another CNC tho. Hopefully, I'll be able to do some light aluminum cutting with it.
6/19/2012 7:57:40 PM
Any drawings?
6/19/2012 7:59:36 PM
There are lots of good machinists here. I'm sure one will be along shortly to help you.
6/19/2012 8:01:33 PM
Send me an email with the DXFs.
6/19/2012 8:01:43 PM
I have the DXFs, and SolidWorks files. I can do up drawings if someone is going to do them manually.
6/19/2012 8:02:30 PM
Originally Posted By JSteensen:
Trying to get a few parts made for my super budget minded desktop CNC router I designed. Its based off the ShapeOko, and just a test bed design for further exploration with 3 and 4 axis CNC tables.
I'm looking for the following:
.25" THK steel
4x of the X-Axis Plates
3x of the vertical risers
1x Z-Axis Motor Mount
FINISH: Raw, deburred if you feel bored and squirrely.
This is my first desktop CNC I'm building and will be a testbed for bigger designs down the road. I have SLDPRT and DXFs of the parts, and would REALLY appreciate someone help in getting me started in exploring homebrew CNCs.
Trying to get a few parts made for my super budget minded desktop CNC router I designed. Its based off the ShapeOko, and just a test bed design for further exploration with 3 and 4 axis CNC tables.
I'm looking for the following:
.25" THK steel
4x of the X-Axis Plates
3x of the vertical risers
1x Z-Axis Motor Mount
FINISH: Raw, deburred if you feel bored and squirrely.
This is my first desktop CNC I'm building and will be a testbed for bigger designs down the road. I have SLDPRT and DXFs of the parts, and would REALLY appreciate someone help in getting me started in exploring homebrew CNCs.
You looking for free parts for a collaborative fun project or do you need a reference to shops that can do the work.
6/19/2012 8:03:43 PM
Originally Posted By Dehammer:
You looking for free parts for a collaborative fun project or do you need a reference to shops that can do the work.
Originally Posted By JSteensen:
<snip>
<snip>
You looking for free parts for a collaborative fun project or do you need a reference to shops that can do the work.
its a collaborative fun project, but I don't expect free at all. At the very least I'd insist on paying for material, even if someone is bored enough to donate their expertise.
6/19/2012 8:05:02 PM
Originally Posted By JSteensen:
its a collaborative fun project, but I don't expect free at all. At the very least I'd insist on paying for material, even if someone is bored enough to donate their expertise.
Originally Posted By Dehammer:
You looking for free parts for a collaborative fun project or do you need a reference to shops that can do the work.
You looking for free parts for a collaborative fun project or do you need a reference to shops that can do the work.
its a collaborative fun project, but I don't expect free at all. At the very least I'd insist on paying for material, even if someone is bored enough to donate their expertise.
I should also mention, I've quoted a few shops....and I can't do $400 for the few brackets. The rest of the machine total comes out, with electronics and motors, linear rails, hardware, and all for under $400.
6/19/2012 8:25:12 PM
Jsteen, how closely does yours follow that shapeoko design?
If all you want to do is wood or plastic and you're going with a small desktop design like that, steel and aluminum is probably overkill.
If all you want to do is wood or plastic and you're going with a small desktop design like that, steel and aluminum is probably overkill.
6/19/2012 8:25:42 PM
Originally Posted By JSteensen:
I should also mention, I've quoted a few shops....and I can't do $400 for the few brackets. The rest of the machine total comes out, with electronics and motors, linear rails, hardware, and all for under $400.
Originally Posted By JSteensen:
its a collaborative fun project, but I don't expect free at all. At the very least I'd insist on paying for material, even if someone is bored enough to donate their expertise.
Originally Posted By Dehammer:
You looking for free parts for a collaborative fun project or do you need a reference to shops that can do the work.
You looking for free parts for a collaborative fun project or do you need a reference to shops that can do the work.
its a collaborative fun project, but I don't expect free at all. At the very least I'd insist on paying for material, even if someone is bored enough to donate their expertise.
I should also mention, I've quoted a few shops....and I can't do $400 for the few brackets. The rest of the machine total comes out, with electronics and motors, linear rails, hardware, and all for under $400.
Assuming you're in the PHX area quotes will vary quite a bit for the work you want. I have no idea if your budget is reasonable for what you need, at least without volunteers.
Waterjet is usually pretty easy and inexpensive, just make sure your designs are 'friendly' to the work. IM me if you can't find a volunteer, I know low people in high places.
6/19/2012 8:31:21 PM
Originally Posted By 1Andy2:
Jsteen, how closely does yours follow that shapeoko design?
If all you want to do is wood or plastic and you're going with a small desktop design like that, steel and aluminum is probably overkill.
Jsteen, how closely does yours follow that shapeoko design?
If all you want to do is wood or plastic and you're going with a small desktop design like that, steel and aluminum is probably overkill.
Its extending out the work area to a 24x36" bed. My materials are going to be wood, acrylic, PCB etching, and some minor aluminum work. The only problem with the stock ShapeOko is those long runs of maker rail get rather droopy when you start running it out to the lengths I'm after. I'm using the basic concept, slightly modified Z-axis, but a whole new frame and gantry. Running dual NEMA 23s on the Y-axis, and upgraded the Z-axis to a NEMA 23 versus a NEMA 17. I'm also going to use a DeWalt DW660 rotary tool I have laying around as the spindle.
6/19/2012 8:33:28 PM
Originally Posted By Dehammer:
<Snip>
Assuming you're in the PHX area quotes will vary quite a bit for the work you want. I have no idea if your budget is reasonable for what you need, at least without volunteers.
Waterjet is usually pretty easy and inexpensive, just make sure your designs are 'friendly' to the work. IM me if you can't find a volunteer, I know low people in high places.
<Snip>
Assuming you're in the PHX area quotes will vary quite a bit for the work you want. I have no idea if your budget is reasonable for what you need, at least without volunteers.
Waterjet is usually pretty easy and inexpensive, just make sure your designs are 'friendly' to the work. IM me if you can't find a volunteer, I know low people in high places.
Will do! I'm actually in the SV area, but I'll get in touch if I can't find it. I'm up in Scottsdale once a month for drill. (Actually will be there Friday to in-process with my reserve unit.) Thanks!
6/19/2012 8:38:19 PM
Originally Posted By JSteensen:
Its extending out the work area to a 24x36" bed. My materials are going to be wood, acrylic, PCB etching, and some minor aluminum work. The only problem with the stock ShapeOko is those long runs of maker rail get rather droopy when you start running it out to the lengths I'm after. I'm using the basic concept, slightly modified Z-axis, but a whole new frame and gantry. Running dual NEMA 23s on the Y-axis, and upgraded the Z-axis to a NEMA 23 versus a NEMA 17.
Originally Posted By 1Andy2:
Jsteen, how closely does yours follow that shapeoko design?
If all you want to do is wood or plastic and you're going with a small desktop design like that, steel and aluminum is probably overkill.
Jsteen, how closely does yours follow that shapeoko design?
If all you want to do is wood or plastic and you're going with a small desktop design like that, steel and aluminum is probably overkill.
Its extending out the work area to a 24x36" bed. My materials are going to be wood, acrylic, PCB etching, and some minor aluminum work. The only problem with the stock ShapeOko is those long runs of maker rail get rather droopy when you start running it out to the lengths I'm after. I'm using the basic concept, slightly modified Z-axis, but a whole new frame and gantry. Running dual NEMA 23s on the Y-axis, and upgraded the Z-axis to a NEMA 23 versus a NEMA 17.
Ok, you definitely want to go with at least a good aluminum extrusion like something from 80/20 for the gantry back.
On my older CNC, my bosch router was actually heavy enough to cause some significant distortion when it was in the middle of it's travel. But I was just using 3/4 inch MDF. Single sheet without any real reinforcement. My next build is going to use one of the heavier duty profiles of 80/20 for that piece, instead.
Cool thing about that stuff is they actually provide a program you can download to calculate deflection for a given length of a given extrusion at a given weight. Super handy for designing the machine.
6/19/2012 8:41:38 PM
you should at least offer to get them lunch or a small trip to the gun range or something ..
machinest's i know cost 20+ an hour and they can have many hours into even the smallest of things ..
machinest's i know cost 20+ an hour and they can have many hours into even the smallest of things ..
6/19/2012 8:42:14 PM
Originally Posted By 1Andy2:
Ok, you definitely want to go with at least a good aluminum extrusion like something from 80/20 for the gantry back.
On my older CNC, my bosch router was actually heavy enough to cause some significant distortion when it was in the middle of it's travel. But I was just using 3/4 inch MDF. Single sheet without any real reinforcement. My next build is going to use one of the heavier duty profiles of 80/20 for that piece, instead.
Cool thing about that stuff is they actually provide a program you can download to calculate deflection for a given length of a given extrusion at a given weight. Super handy for designing the machine.
Originally Posted By JSteensen:
Its extending out the work area to a 24x36" bed. My materials are going to be wood, acrylic, PCB etching, and some minor aluminum work. The only problem with the stock ShapeOko is those long runs of maker rail get rather droopy when you start running it out to the lengths I'm after. I'm using the basic concept, slightly modified Z-axis, but a whole new frame and gantry. Running dual NEMA 23s on the Y-axis, and upgraded the Z-axis to a NEMA 23 versus a NEMA 17.
Originally Posted By 1Andy2:
Jsteen, how closely does yours follow that shapeoko design?
If all you want to do is wood or plastic and you're going with a small desktop design like that, steel and aluminum is probably overkill.
Jsteen, how closely does yours follow that shapeoko design?
If all you want to do is wood or plastic and you're going with a small desktop design like that, steel and aluminum is probably overkill.
Its extending out the work area to a 24x36" bed. My materials are going to be wood, acrylic, PCB etching, and some minor aluminum work. The only problem with the stock ShapeOko is those long runs of maker rail get rather droopy when you start running it out to the lengths I'm after. I'm using the basic concept, slightly modified Z-axis, but a whole new frame and gantry. Running dual NEMA 23s on the Y-axis, and upgraded the Z-axis to a NEMA 23 versus a NEMA 17.
Ok, you definitely want to go with at least a good aluminum extrusion like something from 80/20 for the gantry back.
On my older CNC, my bosch router was actually heavy enough to cause some significant distortion when it was in the middle of it's travel. But I was just using 3/4 inch MDF. Single sheet without any real reinforcement. My next build is going to use one of the heavier duty profiles of 80/20 for that piece, instead.
Cool thing about that stuff is they actually provide a program you can download to calculate deflection for a given length of a given extrusion at a given weight. Super handy for designing the machine.
Definitely. I am going to use a doubled up chunk of the maker rail for the gantry Y-axis rail, gives me about equivalent to the 4040 extrusions, which is nice and stiff. Once I finish mating all my hardware into the model, I'll post some screenies here, and post a copy of the CAD over on GrabCAD.
6/19/2012 8:43:34 PM
Originally Posted By Harleyfx69:
you should at least offer to get them lunch or a small trip to the gun range or something ..
machinest's i know cost 20+ an hour and they can have many hours into even the smallest of things ..
you should at least offer to get them lunch or a small trip to the gun range or something ..
machinest's i know cost 20+ an hour and they can have many hours into even the smallest of things ..
Like I said, I'm definitely not asking for free. :-) If there is anything they have interest in bartering with, I am always open to that too!
6/19/2012 8:45:39 PM
Originally Posted By Harleyfx69:
you should at least offer to get them lunch or a small trip to the gun range or something ..
machinest's i know cost 20+ an hour and they can have many hours into even the smallest of things ..
you should at least offer to get them lunch or a small trip to the gun range or something ..
machinest's i know cost 20+ an hour and they can have many hours into even the smallest of things ..
20 bucks an hour sounds incredibly cheap. I'm in a small town in an area with a median household income well below the national average and the machinist here charges 50 an hour.
6/19/2012 8:48:37 PM
Originally Posted By 1Andy2:
20 bucks an hour sounds incredibly cheap. I'm in a small town in an area with a median household income well below the national average and the machinist here charges 50 an hour.
Originally Posted By Harleyfx69:
you should at least offer to get them lunch or a small trip to the gun range or something ..
machinest's i know cost 20+ an hour and they can have many hours into even the smallest of things ..
you should at least offer to get them lunch or a small trip to the gun range or something ..
machinest's i know cost 20+ an hour and they can have many hours into even the smallest of things ..
20 bucks an hour sounds incredibly cheap. I'm in a small town in an area with a median household income well below the national average and the machinist here charges 50 an hour.
Ya it is cheap, thats why i meant "cheapest i have seen" .. and this old guy was doing the work for a friend of his that was takin advantage of him..
Doing it for the fun of it,
Its expensive to pay for it, but the knowledge it takes to do it off a manual machine takes a lot of learning to get right ..
6/19/2012 8:52:59 PM
Solution_Zero is taking care of me. Thanks so much! Still interested in talking homebuilt CNC theory though!
6/19/2012 8:55:30 PM
Jsteen, I'm curious about your two-motor approach. I've actually incorporated the same thing into my design, but I'm worried about what will happen if a step is lost on one motor but not the other.
What I've seen other people do is a single motor two leadscrew design. Motor in the middle powers two belts or chains to power the leadscrews. I kind of have to go with two motors, simply because of how heavy my gantry is, tho.
Your thoughts?
I guess the only way a step would be lost for one motor but not the other would be through EM interference, correct? Assuming both motors are powered by the same driver.
What I've seen other people do is a single motor two leadscrew design. Motor in the middle powers two belts or chains to power the leadscrews. I kind of have to go with two motors, simply because of how heavy my gantry is, tho.
Your thoughts?
I guess the only way a step would be lost for one motor but not the other would be through EM interference, correct? Assuming both motors are powered by the same driver.
6/19/2012 8:57:23 PM
I'd love to have the space :(
6/19/2012 9:00:08 PM
Originally Posted By 1Andy2:
Jsteen, I'm curious about your two-motor approach. I've actually incorporated the same thing into my design, but I'm worried about what will happen if a step is lost on one motor but not the other.
What I've seen other people do is a single motor two leadscrew design. Motor in the middle powers two belts or chains to power the leadscrews. I kind of have to go with two motors, simply because of how heavy my gantry is, tho.
Your thoughts?
I guess the only way a step would be lost for one motor but not the other would be through EM interference, correct? Assuming both motors are powered by the same driver.
Jsteen, I'm curious about your two-motor approach. I've actually incorporated the same thing into my design, but I'm worried about what will happen if a step is lost on one motor but not the other.
What I've seen other people do is a single motor two leadscrew design. Motor in the middle powers two belts or chains to power the leadscrews. I kind of have to go with two motors, simply because of how heavy my gantry is, tho.
Your thoughts?
I guess the only way a step would be lost for one motor but not the other would be through EM interference, correct? Assuming both motors are powered by the same driver.
I guess my first question would be mechanically losing a step (IE cutting something you shouldn't be) or electrically? I don't see steps being lost via EMI, as I am shielding my cable bundles (I have an ungodly amount of shielding sleeving laying about), and I actually am using two separate drivers, but slaving them together in the micro controller. I think that driving via one motor is definitely doable, if you don't have to spend an arm and a leg upgrading your electronics to support the larger motor?
6/19/2012 9:02:23 PM
Originally Posted By learath:
I'd love to have the space :(
I'd love to have the space :(
If will fit on my workbench in the garage, right next to my drill press. The tricky part methinks is going to be getting the spoil board perfectly parallel with the tool face. Its going to take a LONG time to get the wood ran perfectly parallel with a 1/8" end mill....(Using my dremel to start, then will upgrade to the dewalt. Dewalt is 3.5 lbs, though I do want to design a vacuum collar for it that will plug into my shop vac.)
6/19/2012 9:04:07 PM
By slaving them together at the microcontroller, you mean you have two drivers going to the same pins on the breakout board, correct?
Glad I popped into this thread. Though now that I think about it, running both off a single driver probably would not have worked because it would have been too much current draw from a single driver.
Glad I popped into this thread. Though now that I think about it, running both off a single driver probably would not have worked because it would have been too much current draw from a single driver.
6/19/2012 9:13:41 PM
Originally Posted By 1Andy2:
By slaving them together at the microcontroller, you mean you have two drivers going to the same pins on the breakout board, correct?
Glad I popped into this thread. Though now that I think about it, running both off a single driver probably would not have worked because it would have been too much current draw from a single driver.
By slaving them together at the microcontroller, you mean you have two drivers going to the same pins on the breakout board, correct?
Glad I popped into this thread. Though now that I think about it, running both off a single driver probably would not have worked because it would have been too much current draw from a single driver.
Yeah, not sure that's a good idea. I think in most systems, two motors, even if nearly identical, will be different enough to not work well.
6/19/2012 9:16:26 PM
Originally Posted By 1Andy2:
By slaving them together at the micro controller, you mean you have two drivers going to the same pins on the breakout board, correct?
Glad I popped into this thread. Though now that I think about it, running both off a single driver probably would not have worked because it would have been too much current draw from a single driver.
By slaving them together at the micro controller, you mean you have two drivers going to the same pins on the breakout board, correct?
Glad I popped into this thread. Though now that I think about it, running both off a single driver probably would not have worked because it would have been too much current draw from a single driver.
Effectively. My controller board (Link, $63 bucks or less on eBay, with controller and drivers on board) lets me set dips to slave axis. Some people do run two off one driver, but the rule I'm most comfortable with is one stepper per driver. That controller is Mach3 compatible, though it is pretty no frills. (You can do limit switches, but no home switches, unless you decide that you want to run the CNC to the limits as your home position...which is what I'm planning on doing.)
