AR15.Com Archives
 CLP vs. Rem Oil
MSC182  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 7:02:37 PM EST
Help settle a friendly argument.

Which would you prefer and why?

If you use another product, feel free to post about it and why you like it better.

Edit for clarity: Do you prefer to use just CLP for cleaning and lube or a combination of Hoppes / Rem Oil?
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deuce_22  [Member]
8/3/2010 7:05:34 PM EST
Rem oil is too damn thin to be good for much of anything
SouthEndXGF  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 7:05:36 PM EST
poll fail. Hoppe's and Rem Oil TOGETHER > CLP, IMO.


just givin' ya crap about it, I'm sure CLP is good stuff too.

I like Hoppe's, and it'll work on corrosive ammo.
TheGerman  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 7:10:20 PM EST
Google gun oil corrosion test.

CLP usually comes in higher than RemOil but not by too much.

Eezox seems to be the winner almost every time.

For what its worth, I run CLP on everything from my AR to my precision rifle to my K98s and have had zero issues, ever.
bcw107  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 7:12:29 PM EST
CLP

http://madogre.com/interviews/breakfree.htm

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
MSC182  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 7:12:52 PM EST
Originally Posted By TheGerman:
Google gun oil corrosion test.

CLP usually comes in higher than RemOil but not by too much.

Eezox seems to be the winner almost every time.

For what its worth, I run CLP on everything from my AR to my precision rifle to my K98s and have had zero issues, ever.


This has been my experience as well. For me it's a one bottle solution to all my cleaning / lubrication needs save for corrosive ammo and I can use boiling water for that.
AZ_Sky  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 7:19:12 PM EST
I keep and use them both.
CLP usually for mechanism lubrication and Rem as a similar substitute to Sheath wipedown.
ThatSickRip  [Member]
8/3/2010 7:19:33 PM EST
So if you guys are just using CLP, how are you using it? Do you use it as a solvent, wipe, then re apply as a lube? Or do you use it as a solvent, wipe and leave as is?
MSC182  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 7:25:18 PM EST
Originally Posted By ThatSickRip:
So if you guys are just using CLP, how are you using it? Do you use it as a solvent, wipe, then re apply as a lube? Or do you use it as a solvent, wipe and leave as is?


This
SouthEndXGF  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 7:25:28 PM EST

Originally Posted By ThatSickRip:
So if you guys are just using CLP, how are you using it? Do you use it as a solvent, wipe, then re apply as a lube? Or do you use it as a solvent, wipe and leave as is?

I think some of them fap with it....

just sayin.
bluetick357  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 7:27:09 PM EST
Originally Posted By ThatSickRip:
So if you guys are just using CLP, how are you using it? Do you use it as a solvent, wipe, then re apply as a lube? Or do you use it as a solvent, wipe and leave as is?


I use it for everything exept the bore,I use hoppes for that,I do swap the bore after with clp though to keep it lubed.Edit...then I use it for a vigorous fap session and laugh on into the night.
GlutealCleft  [Member]
8/3/2010 7:27:39 PM EST
Of the two, I like Rem Oil. Primarily for the fact that if I spray it on and put the rifle in the safe for a couple of months, 90% of the oil hasn't evaporated, like CLP seems to do.
sigp226  [Member]
8/3/2010 7:31:45 PM EST
I use both and both of them work very well. CLP has one disadvantage - it stinks. I use RemOil on hunting guns.
CRC  [Member]
8/3/2010 7:35:00 PM EST
WD 40
zhick  [Member]
8/3/2010 7:37:19 PM EST
Originally Posted By CRC:
WD 40



BLASPHEMEY It will make everything a jamomatic when it sets up into a sticky scum. REALLY.
CaptSchofield  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 7:37:39 PM EST
Originally Posted By GlutealCleft:
Of the two, I like Rem Oil. Primarily for the fact that if I spray it on and put the rifle in the safe for a couple of months, 90% of the oil hasn't evaporated, like CLP seems to do.


CLP is designed to evaporate and leave a dry protective layer that will not accumulate dust and grime

zhick  [Member]
8/3/2010 7:38:58 PM EST
Originally Posted By sigp226:
I use both and both of them work very well. CLP has one disadvantage - it stinks. I use RemOil on hunting guns.



Absolutely, Want my business forever, come up with CLP that smell like rem oil for the win win. I use both.
Kuraki  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 7:42:02 PM EST
I've used a lot of different lubes, Rem Oil, Hoppes brand oil, CLP, greases from lithium to custom blends for high volume punch presses, and I really don't have a preference any more. It all works. Temperatures have been the only difference (some of the greases got a little too solid in cold, some oils too runny when hot). I think most if not all of the major players in firearm lubrication put out a product that does just fine.

ETA: The only ones I don't like are "dry film" lubricants. I don't want a dry film. Carbon doesn't cause as many stoppages when it remains wet.
Alien  [Member]
8/3/2010 7:46:39 PM EST
I've always used Breakfree CLP with zero problems and the smell doesn't bother me. Weapon Shield CLP is supposed to be a bit better though as is SLiP 2000 EWL (doesn't evaporate as quickly). If they were readily available in my area I'd give them a try. I'll try and remember to see if the next retailer I place an internet order with has them as well.
MSC182  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 7:54:05 PM EST
Originally Posted By SouthEndXGF:

Originally Posted By ThatSickRip:
So if you guys are just using CLP, how are you using it? Do you use it as a solvent, wipe, then re apply as a lube? Or do you use it as a solvent, wipe and leave as is?

I think some of them fap with it....

just sayin.


Rem Oil tends to burn a little too much.
SouthEndXGF  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 8:00:54 PM EST

Originally Posted By MSC182:
Originally Posted By SouthEndXGF:

Originally Posted By ThatSickRip:
So if you guys are just using CLP, how are you using it? Do you use it as a solvent, wipe, then re apply as a lube? Or do you use it as a solvent, wipe and leave as is?

I think some of them fap with it....

just sayin.


Rem Oil tends to burn a little too much.

So I hear... It does that, "for your pleasure"

TheGerman  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 8:12:40 PM EST
Originally Posted By ThatSickRip:
So if you guys are just using CLP, how are you using it? Do you use it as a solvent, wipe, then re apply as a lube? Or do you use it as a solvent, wipe and leave as is?


CLP for lube.

Hoppe's Benchrest (whatever one dissolves copper) for solvent.
dryflash3  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 8:23:24 PM EST
CLP for everything except the bore.

Hoppes #9 there.
The_Gooch  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 8:30:21 PM EST
CLP is my general purpose cleaner/lube. I will use Hoppes #9 if the gun is really dirty or I shoot corrosive ammo. Barnes CR-10 if there is heavy copper fouling. Most guns get lubed with CLP or FP10 unless grease is needed. Sometimes I will use Tetra oil. Ballistol for my black powder firearms
DannyGlover  [Team Member]
8/3/2010 8:34:27 PM EST
GunZilla

look it up, thank me later
MosinitisHasNoCure  [Member]
8/3/2010 8:37:39 PM EST
Neither lubricate well and serve better as a cleaner.I prefer G96 or FP-10.
billclo  [Member]
8/4/2010 2:18:31 AM EST
Neither. Slip 2000 EWL is what I use.
EvanWilliams  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 2:26:32 AM EST
Originally Posted By SouthEndXGF:
poll fail. Hoppe's and Rem Oil TOGETHER > CLP, IMO.


just givin' ya crap about it, I'm sure CLP is good stuff too.

I like Hoppe's, and it'll work on corrosive ammo.


This is the answer.
Bentley8  [Member]
8/4/2010 7:57:33 AM EST
I use Ed's Red with lanolin for all cleaning. If I'm putting up the gun for an extended period I use either Sheath or Eezox as a preventative, otherwise I let the lanolin do it's job.

For lubrication I use grease, usually Plastilube as I've got over 300 of the little pots left, but only in areas that require it. I don't slather it everywhere, just a bit here, a bit there. I'm thinking of picking up some Lubriplate so I can have enough grease for two lifetimes.
Nulllogik  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 8:07:45 AM EST
Originally Posted By deuce_22:
Rem oil is too damn thin to be good for much of anything


DerekCB  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 8:09:32 AM EST
SLIP 2000 EWL for every gun I own.
Evilsmurfkilla  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 8:20:17 AM EST

Originally Posted By DannyGlover:
GunZilla

look it up, thank me later

Just got some about a week ago, we'll see how it goes.
oulufinn  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 8:20:42 AM EST
Corrosion X. I've been using it for over ten years on everything from saltwater fishing reels to AR-15's. It's damn good stuff.

http://www.corrosionx.com/marine.html



diggerwolf  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 8:21:04 AM EST
GTwannabe  [Member]
8/4/2010 8:22:27 AM EST
CLP... Rem Oil has too much solvent and doesn't lubricate well. It also evaporates very quickly.

I switched to LP, as CLP likes to weep out everywhere while in storage. LP stays put and cleaning is as easy as wiping the metal parts down with a paper towel, then re-lubing.
Blackhawk101  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 8:27:22 AM EST
Here is the problem with CLP- it stands for "Clean, Lubricate and Protect" so it is basically a 3 in 1. The problem is that such products never do anything well.

To clean you need a solvent to break down carbon ,etc and lift it off the surface, to lubricate you need an oil only in those spots where friction occurs (this is important), and to protect you need a varnish (in laymans terms) that acts as a barrier between the metal and the environment. All are mutually exclusive to each other- if any single product was off sufficient strength to do the job correctly it would destroy the other two. If you are going to clean/oil/protect a weapon then use dedicated products to get the job done right and not half- assed. CLP is, in my book, half-assed.

It should be noted that a lubricant and varnish are NOT the same thing. A lubricant is used to ease the contact between areas that will wear, create friction, etc. A lubricant will also help to lift dirt, carbon, etc off these points to help ease function and cleaining (i.e. carbon suspended in a lubricant is a whole lot easier to clean/flush then carbon deposited on dry components). A varnish is not a lubricant- a lubricant would by definition be heavier in consistency thereby trapping dirt, grit, etc which could impede the function of the weapon which is why over lubricating is a no-go in my book. Instead a varnish is a thin barrier meant to be applied and when dry provide an almost dry to dry feeling (i.e. NOT oily or slick). The varnish is there simply as the first line of defense to protect against corrosion- it has zero to do with weapon function at critical wear points.

So for me I use:

Clean - Hoppe's No 9 or Shooters Choice (depending on what my local fun shop has in stock)
Lubricate - 10W-40 (or similar motor oil dependent on local temperature) on wear/friction points
Protect - Silicone cloth used to wipe off a misting of WD-40 typically on weapon exterior.

As for my lubricate- why use motor oil? Well if the oil can withstand the pressure and heat of an engine it sure as hell can take the pressure and heat of a weapon. Motor oil is also cheaper and you can vary the viscosity depending on external temperatures (i.e. if its really cold then lube it up with an appropriate motor oil!)
joemama74  [Member]
8/4/2010 9:15:44 AM EST
I mix Vagasil with Mobile One.

Really slick and it can handle the heat.
skinnysarge79  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 9:21:25 AM EST
With the obsession some members of this site have with "OMG IT HAS TO BE MILSPEC" you already know what the poll will say.
XD_Fan  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 9:24:45 AM EST
I've used Tetra for several years now and couldn't be happier. Still use Hoppe's and Butch's though.
Shawnmt6601  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 9:31:18 AM EST
I use it for lube

I clean barrels with real bore cleaner

I use Butches Boreshine for bores
AyeArr15  [Member]
8/4/2010 9:39:09 AM EST
Weapon Shield... its the SHIT
Quick_1911  [Member]
8/4/2010 9:40:32 AM EST
CLP
rhino73  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 9:43:13 AM EST
BALLISTOL.
ScoutMac  [Member]
8/4/2010 9:43:51 AM EST
Originally Posted By GTwannabe:
CLP... Rem Oil has too much solvent and doesn't lubricate well. It also evaporates very quickly.

I switched to LP, as CLP likes to weep out everywhere while in storage. LP stays put and cleaning is as easy as wiping the metal parts down with a paper towel, then re-lubing.




This.


FDC  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 9:45:07 AM EST
Originally Posted By skinnysarge79:
With the obsession some members of this site have with "OMG IT HAS TO BE MILSPEC" you already know what the poll will say.




Yeah, but you have to look what he's comparing CLP versus that watery stuff in the bottle with the green label. I have used Re Oil before, but only to assist with surface rust removal on some inherited firearms.

As far as lube goes, I use Break Free CLP exclusively on everything but my Garands.

For cleaning, I usually just let a bit of CLP(on the kitchen counter) loosen up some of the carbon/junk and then brush off. If I feel like walking downstairs, and I usually don't, I may use a bit of Hoppes #9 for solvent. If I'm in a hurry, I'll just dump some spare white gas into a pistol slide and brush off. If I want to do a thorough cleaning, I'll run a bunch of hot water through it and let dry. As usual, all cleaning will be followed by lubing.

I personally think some people put too much thought into this, but if it works for them––rock on.

Nate4635  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 9:45:17 AM EST
I use CLP on my AR's

Ballistol on pretty much everything else

danpass  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 9:46:37 AM EST
Steel Shield Weapon Shield for me (and their grease)

LUGERMAN  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 9:49:08 AM EST
CLP for the last 20+ years for me.
-Apocalypto-  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 10:06:34 AM EST
Both do good for me, but CLP does seem to be heavier and last longer.
Beachjumper12  [Team Member]
8/4/2010 10:14:34 AM EST
VVL 800.

2nd_amandment  [Member]
8/4/2010 10:37:22 AM EST
Cleaner/solvent for cleaning.
Thin oil for protection.
Grease for moving-contact parts.

All in one formulas will work fine, but I prefer more detailed work, the brand doesn't really matter, they all want your money some more than others and do the same job.
Brake cleaner, Mobil 1, and bearing grease will work just as well and it's cheaper.
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