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Question about hardieboard siding
6/20/2012 11:19:58 PM
I was asked to help a family member with a house renovation. He was supposed to be around and do the siding on the small garage, any way he has to be gone. He ran over it with me, but I need to clarify on the angle cut for the peak of the roof. It will need a double angle, for about 4 or 5 rows. Could I simply figure out the angle on one side and then cut the angle on one square side, get that into place and pencil in the left side angle and then cut it?
He mentioned a different way, and I didn't like it.
He mentioned a different way, and I didn't like it.
6/20/2012 11:47:30 PM
Originally Posted By Chromekilla:
I was asked to help a family member with a house renovation. He was supposed to be around and do the siding on the small garage, any way he has to be gone. He ran over it with me, but I need to clarify on the angle cut for the peak of the roof. It will need a double angle, for about 4 or 5 rows. Could I simply figure out the angle on one side and then cut the angle on one square side, get that into place and pencil in the left side angle and then cut it?
He mentioned a different way, and I didn't like it.
I was asked to help a family member with a house renovation. He was supposed to be around and do the siding on the small garage, any way he has to be gone. He ran over it with me, but I need to clarify on the angle cut for the peak of the roof. It will need a double angle, for about 4 or 5 rows. Could I simply figure out the angle on one side and then cut the angle on one square side, get that into place and pencil in the left side angle and then cut it?
He mentioned a different way, and I didn't like it.
You need to know the angle that you will be cutting first.
For instance, I just did 12 in 12 pitch roof (45 degrees) so I cut a short piece of Hardi-board (9" Hardi-Plank technically) with a 45 degree angle on one end and a 90 degree cut on the other end.
I positioned the short 45 degree piece (leaving about an 1/8" for caulking ) and also with (in my case) a 2" overlap on the previous row and put a pencil mark on the previous row at the 90 degree end, I flipped the piece over and did the same on the other end of the wall, which was also at 45 degrees. Then I measured the distance between the two pencil marks and added the length of the "test piece" x 2 and there you have it....the correct length for that new row.
I used hot dipped galv. nails in my nail gun (recommended by Hardi).
That's how I did it.
Wear a dust mask and eye protection when cutting that stuff.
Hope that helped.
6/21/2012 12:25:41 AM
Sweet I've got all that.
I really appreciate the info it was hard out there listening after 12 hours in the hot sun. We've got a miter saw (the skil saw on a stand) that I have run for angles. Just wanted to check if I could do what I was hoping I could do.
I really appreciate the info it was hard out there listening after 12 hours in the hot sun. We've got a miter saw (the skil saw on a stand) that I have run for angles. Just wanted to check if I could do what I was hoping I could do.
6/21/2012 12:35:39 AM
You could always measure the piece you're about to put up for the longpoint of the next piece.
For instance, IIRC the overlap is 1 1/4", scribe that on the lower piece, measure it and that should be the length of the bottom of the next piece if your angle is correct. This would be faster than measuring up in the gable for every piece.
You'll want to leave a 1/8" gap between the siding and the soffit or eave for expansion and contraction, I caulk it after with Big Stretch caulking.
6/21/2012 12:41:33 AM
DTM,
I know about the overlap and he explained that to me in terms of what you are describing I think. With the overlap 8 inch from corner to where I need the angle to end isn't correct. So if I add my overlap to each measurement ie angle needs to be 8 inch from bottom corner to top corner, I go 9.25 inch which with over lap is 8 inch. Is that basically correct?
I know about the overlap and he explained that to me in terms of what you are describing I think. With the overlap 8 inch from corner to where I need the angle to end isn't correct. So if I add my overlap to each measurement ie angle needs to be 8 inch from bottom corner to top corner, I go 9.25 inch which with over lap is 8 inch. Is that basically correct?
6/21/2012 1:06:18 AM
Not 100% sure what you're asking... I'll try to explain as best I can.
Let's just say the roof was a 3 and 12. That would = 14 degrees, that's the angle at which you cut each end of siding. Now you have to scribe your overlap onto that piece either before or after you put it up, for the sake of measuring for the next piece you should scribe it before. So you draw a line parallel to the top of the piece 1 1/4 inches down from the top, that line will represent the bottom of your next piece.
So measure that line, where it intersects with your rake cuts and you have the long point measurement of your next piece. Forget about how long the rake cut measures, that doesn't matter.
As far as getting your first gable piece measured, I would do like the first poster mentioned, cut the rake on a scrap piece, fit it into each side and scribe a line where the piece ends. Measure between the lines + 2x the length of your scrap piece and you're good. Don't forget your gaps- those gaps are necessary between butt joints as well if you want Hardi to warranty the product.
6/22/2012 11:54:29 AM
Got about 75% done, before I ran out of material. It took some ice cream cones and some thinking and creative engineering to get it cut and hung, but got er done. Appreciate the help guys.
6/25/2012 7:36:09 PM
Entire thing is done! Trim is done, but paint is coming tomorrow. Raining way too bad when I left.
Learned a new fun skill, to include the proper use of a speed square and not just for a straight edge lol.
Learned a new fun skill, to include the proper use of a speed square and not just for a straight edge lol.
