User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
TX, USA
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Posted: 5/15/2024 2:37:50 PM EDT
I need to learn better prints. We'll talk about cooling here.
Assume I know nothing about cooling or fan use, and my Slicer (orca) is using whatever was preset. We'll say PLA+ and PETG-CF is being used. |
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Posted: 5/15/2024 2:56:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Rat_Patrol]
[#1]
Petg CF is awesome where it only needs cooling to bridge. If you leave cooling off and keep the layer times conservative, you can get incredible layer adhesion.
More cooling, in general, means better looking but weaker prints. Generally you run a temp tower and cooling tower to dial in settings, then use that as a baseline and adjust as needed for the particular print. |
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Posted: 5/15/2024 6:33:29 PM EDT
[#2]
What RP said.
Generally PLA+ isn't terribly bothered by cooling but do print it hot enough to get good heat on the layer as it's being cooled. Run CF PETG fan off and HOT. Slow print times way down and use sacrificial parts towers as needed to get acceptable layer times. I print PLA at 70% fan if not strictly cosmetic, 100% if cosmetic. CF PETG is 0% except bridges. PETG is anywhere from 0-70% depending on strength needed and part geometry. There isn't a hard and fast rule. |
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Posted: 5/15/2024 7:23:22 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Petg CF is awesome where it only needs cooling to bridge. If you leave cooling off and keep the layer times conservative, you can get incredible layer adhesion. More cooling, in general, means better looking but weaker prints. Generally you run a temp tower and cooling tower to dial in settings, then use that as a baseline and adjust as needed for the particular print. That has been my experience with pla so far. I run slightly higher bed temp for the initial layer and slightly slower. Between that and running an ABL, I'm getting perfect adhesion on the first try now with a stock aquila fan shroud. |
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