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Posted: 9/25/2023 11:15:01 PM EDT
[#1]
The Sudy 43/52 project using PPS-43 parts kits has been updated to work in semi-auto with an AR15 FCG. Available on the weird see The_Sudy_2352
Parts kits at Apex or Centerfire Systems. |
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Posted: 9/26/2023 12:58:18 AM EDT
[#2]
This weekend, I found a home for a few of these.
 Attached FileAll of the Homemade parts go in the upper half.  Attached File |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 9/26/2023 2:14:38 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote History@RV8guy That turned out nicely. I am currently working the same project. I have the lower actively printing right now. I have lost several supports already (feel over) but the actual lower looks good still so I am going to let the print finish for now. I have a new gcode set up with thicker lines on the support and slower support print speed. Ill run that one next if the one going turns out like crap. |
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Posted: 9/26/2023 9:22:06 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AFCarbon15: This weekend, I found a home for a few of these. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/89127/Resized_20230830_192247_jpeg-2966722.JPG All of the Homemade parts go in the upper half. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/89127/20230923_170010_jpg-2966725.JPG Nice ... but seeing some layer issue on your print. Might be an issue unless it just the camera picking up the bands. Are those barrel blanks you started with or hydraulic cylinders/tubes you went and ECM'd? |
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Posted: 10/5/2023 11:51:09 AM EDT
[#5]
Not firearms per se, but does anyone have any good 1:1 STL files for various RPG-7 warheads? Or a good source for them> Anything from the fuse down to the fin assembly would be great!
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Posted: 10/5/2023 1:07:57 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BlueLogo: Not firearms per se, but does anyone have any good 1:1 STL files for various RPG-7 warheads? Or a good source for them> Anything from the fuse down to the fin assembly would be great! Have you tried grabcad? |
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Posted: 10/9/2023 12:45:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BlueLogo]
[#7]
Thanks for the lead!
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Posted: 10/9/2023 10:55:16 PM EDT
[#8]
Printable versions of a certain still legal trigger
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Posted: 10/10/2023 3:49:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bionicmonkey]
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mPisi: Printable versions of a certain still legal trigger
I think the idea of a single piece cartridge style makes a ton of sense but i dont know that everyone will agree with your comment - especially given the parts list; M16A2 burst trigger, M16 disconnector, Full auto 3 Position selector, a M16 cut lower, ... not telling you what to do, maybe just saying I like my dog more than you like yours. |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 10/10/2023 4:47:42 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mPisi: Printable versions of a certain still legal trigger
Link to files? PM me? |
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USA
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Posted: 10/10/2023 6:14:40 PM EDT
[#11]
Noob question: You guys use PLA+ for the Glock frames?
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Posted: 10/10/2023 8:06:29 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GripnAK47s: Noob question: You guys use PLA+ for the Glock frames? |
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Posted: 10/10/2023 8:15:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bionicmonkey]
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GripnAK47s: Noob question: You guys use PLA+ for the Glock frames? primarily PA6-CF PLA will get all soft and lose strength at reasonably not that high temperatures like 100f, PETG will crack and fail in unexpected ways so that's a nope, ABS has good impact resistance but not as good layer adhesion and ultimate strength - personally I use it for chunky AR frames like monopoly but not for thin walls like a glock, Polycarbonate is really strong but its lack of flexibility means it tends to crack - i made a glonk in PC and it ran for a while but eventually cracked in the usual place across the grip, PA6-CF is pretty good but still is possible to have creep and maybe too much flex. but overall it seems like the better choice at the moment. when I print AR frames i use brass inserts for the pins so there is no mis-shaping of the holes over time due to friction and spring force. but yeah, start with PLA+ |
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USA
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Posted: 10/10/2023 9:45:29 PM EDT
[#14]
Thanks guys
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OR, USA
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Posted: 10/11/2023 12:12:03 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bionicmonkey: primarily PA6-CF PLA will get all soft and lose strength at reasonably not that high temperatures like 100f, PETG will crack and fail in unexpected ways so that's a nope, ABS has good impact resistance but not as good layer adhesion and ultimate strength - personally I use it for chunky AR frames like monopoly but not for thin walls like a glock, Polycarbonate is really strong but its lack of flexibility means it tends to crack - i made a glonk in PC and it ran for a while but eventually cracked in the usual place across the grip, PA6-CF is pretty good but still is possible to have creep and maybe too much flex. but overall it seems like the better choice at the moment. when I print AR frames i use brass inserts for the pins so there is no mis-shaping of the holes over time due to friction and spring force. but yeah, start with PLA+ PLA gets soft at 100F or so temps. A proper PLA+ can have a drying temp as high as nylon. I run some PLA+ with an advertised heat deflection temp if about 130F. Nylon from the same company has a heat deflection temp of about 150F. Not enough difference for 99% of what I use it for to make it worth dealing with nylon. I've never had PETG fail in unexpected ways. Usually it just kinda moves. It's soft but very durable. Just kinda deforms over time. |
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Posted: 10/11/2023 12:26:05 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Deerhurst: PLA gets soft at 100F or so temps. A proper PLA+ can have a drying temp as high as nylon. I run some PLA+ with an advertised heat deflection temp if about 130F. Nylon from the same company has a heat deflection temp of about 150F. Not enough difference for 99% of what I use it for to make it worth dealing with nylon. I've never had PETG fail in unexpected ways. Usually it just kinda moves. It's soft but very durable. Just kinda deforms over time. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Deerhurst: Originally Posted By bionicmonkey: primarily PA6-CF PLA will get all soft and lose strength at reasonably not that high temperatures like 100f, PETG will crack and fail in unexpected ways so that's a nope, ABS has good impact resistance but not as good layer adhesion and ultimate strength - personally I use it for chunky AR frames like monopoly but not for thin walls like a glock, Polycarbonate is really strong but its lack of flexibility means it tends to crack - i made a glonk in PC and it ran for a while but eventually cracked in the usual place across the grip, PA6-CF is pretty good but still is possible to have creep and maybe too much flex. but overall it seems like the better choice at the moment. when I print AR frames i use brass inserts for the pins so there is no mis-shaping of the holes over time due to friction and spring force. but yeah, start with PLA+ PLA gets soft at 100F or so temps. A proper PLA+ can have a drying temp as high as nylon. I run some PLA+ with an advertised heat deflection temp if about 130F. Nylon from the same company has a heat deflection temp of about 150F. Not enough difference for 99% of what I use it for to make it worth dealing with nylon. I've never had PETG fail in unexpected ways. Usually it just kinda moves. It's soft but very durable. Just kinda deforms over time. Petg fails slowly under constant loads but suddenly under sharp loads like recoil. Also i think u have C and F mixed up - nylon will hold strong above 200f. In fact i anneal my prints at 195f. Never seen pla that can handle that. If you think the diff is immaterial check your car in summer. Temp at the headliner or dash can be over 185 f and even on the rear seats can be over 140. |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 10/11/2023 9:15:30 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bionicmonkey: Petg fails slowly under constant loads but suddenly under sharp loads like recoil. Also i think u have C and F mixed up - nylon will hold strong above 200f. In fact i anneal my prints at 195f. Never seen pla that can handle that. If you think the diff is immaterial check your car in summer. Temp at the headliner or dash can be over 185 f and even on the rear seats can be over 140. You'll have to tell the manufacturer they have their C and F mixed up. Numbers are straight from polymaker. 54C for the PLA and 62C (trying to remember what I saw last night) for the nylon. Remember, that isn't melt temperature. That is heat deflection temp. I've dried PLA+ as high as 70c per the manufacturers specs. I had a regular PLA shift knob in a beater car. It was black with a black interior. Shift knob did fine on 100F days. I think it go soft on a 105+ day but held its shape. That was regular garbage PLA. I have yet to see PETG fail in sharp loads that was not a failure at the layer line. I don't use it for much anymore due to the creep. The PLA+ I use covers it. I might use it for a wear surface but that's about it. I think I said above, I've gone almost 100% to resin. It's just better for 99% of what I do. |
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Posted: 10/11/2023 1:17:19 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Deerhurst: You'll have to tell the manufacturer they have their C and F mixed up. Numbers are straight from polymaker. 54C for the PLA and 62C (trying to remember what I saw last night) for the nylon. Remember, that isn't melt temperature. That is heat deflection temp. I've dried PLA+ as high as 70c per the manufacturers specs. I had a regular PLA shift knob in a beater car. It was black with a black interior. Shift knob did fine on 100F days. I think it go soft on a 105+ day but held its shape. That was regular garbage PLA. I have yet to see PETG fail in sharp loads that was not a failure at the layer line. I don't use it for much anymore due to the creep. The PLA+ I use covers it. I might use it for a wear surface but that's about it. I think I said above, I've gone almost 100% to resin. It's just better for 99% of what I do. yeah, that's a no dawg. Heat deflection temperature ISO 75 1.8MPa 173 °C Heat deflection temperature ISO 75 0.45MPa 215 °C straight from https://us.polymaker.com/products/polymide-pa6-cf |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 10/11/2023 4:33:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Deerhurst]
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bionicmonkey: yeah, that's a no dawg. Heat deflection temperature ISO 75 1.8MPa 173 °C Heat deflection temperature ISO 75 0.45MPa 215 °C straight from https://us.polymaker.com/products/polymide-pa6-cf Yeah, that's a no dawg.  Try Nylon, not a hybrid reinforced material. Ooh! I can link a product page too! Spicy! https://us.polymaker.com/products/polymide-copa It's a Nylon6/66 material. Currently finding a 1.8MPa heat deflection temp of 69.8c which is actually different than what the website said. Look at the technical data. Knowing the material you are working with is half the battle. Know what material you are working with seems to be difficult. |
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Posted: 10/14/2023 11:28:18 PM EDT
[#20]
Work on the FMG continues
https://old.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/17823gi/update/ |
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Posted: 10/18/2023 12:59:47 PM EDT
[#21]
FTN2 printed Form 1 suppressor is sailing.
https://old.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/17a1vbb/ftn2_printed_9mm_suppressor_is_sailing/ |
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Posted: 11/27/2023 11:52:43 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mPisi: FTN2 printed Form 1 suppressor is sailing. https://old.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/17a1vbb/ftn2_printed_9mm_suppressor_is_sailing/ Updated at Xmas and now tested with rifles... 400ish rounds to failure (not all at once) https://old.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/18548mr/ftn3_rifle_rated_suppressor_sailing_xmas_day/ |
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Posted: 12/1/2023 12:23:27 AM EDT
[#23]
Hoffman Tactical goes all artistic
 KF-5 Goes Super Safe |
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Posted: 12/1/2023 12:54:08 AM EDT
[Last Edit: scul]
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mPisi: Hoffman Tactical goes all artistic  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGlBC-W70bQDamn, that's awesome. I need to print my SF-5... BTW, the MP-5 SS adapter is made by @meatbanana42069 on Odysee. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 12/2/2023 1:00:02 AM EDT
[#25]
I'm working on the CZ Scorpion right now. Got the largest print going right now which is the 2 upper pieces printed at a 45 degree angle.
I scored a stripped bolt and trigger group along with a few other parts for $100. |
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Posted: 12/13/2023 10:50:33 PM EDT
[#26]
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Posted: 12/14/2023 2:03:38 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryIs this floating in the sea? |
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Posted: 12/15/2023 12:45:43 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jerrmy: Is this floating in the sea? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jerrmy: Is this floating in the sea? That post says Black Lotus Coalition test group |
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Posted: 12/17/2023 12:13:16 AM EDT
[#29]
Ammo experimentation,, pics of 45LC firing with light bullet and light load of Titegroup
https://old.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/18k3pxd/3d_printed_case_45_lc/ |
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Posted: 12/19/2023 2:46:58 PM EDT
[#30]
.22 can with traditional and flow-through core options
https://www.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/18l8l14/new_fully_3d_printed_22lr_car/ Core drawings on Imgur Nice summary of Black Lotus Coalition projects https://www.reddit.com/gallery/18m3jcg |
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Posted: 12/22/2023 12:33:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: mPisi]
[#31]
Housing for the cheap Nerf night vision device
https://old.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/18nc00f/release_nods_or_nothing_30_nvg/ "Is it good night vision? Not really. Is it good $30 night vision? Surprisingly yeah." |
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Posted: 12/27/2023 2:53:28 PM EDT
[#32]
Finally got setup to print nylon and worked out a lot of bugs. Had to switch to a 0.6 nozzle because the 0.4 was clog city, but I got a fabulous print in the end. Polymaker PA6-CF on my Prusa MK3S+. The frame is a PY2A G69 (G17 frame with G19 grip length) that I modified myself to accept FMDA rails and added a gen 5 like texture. The slide is G34 length. Super happy with the results.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 12/27/2023 9:21:35 PM EDT
[#33]
Thats a great clean print. Congrats!
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Posted: 12/31/2023 5:39:49 PM EDT
[#34]
I printed 2 of these last night out of just regular Overture PLA as a test. It was a long print, but they are good quality and went together super easy with a spring I robbed out of a Magpul 17rd Glock mag. If they work well I will try PLA Pro and ASA filaments.
 They fit into every gun I tried them in, drop free, and chamber rounds flawlessly. |
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Posted: 12/31/2023 6:38:25 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blob: Finally got setup to print nylon and worked out a lot of bugs. Had to switch to a 0.6 nozzle because the 0.4 was clog city, but I got a fabulous print in the end. Polymaker PA6-CF on my Prusa MK3S+. The frame is a PY2A G69 (G17 frame with G19 grip length) that I modified myself to accept FMDA rails and added a gen 5 like texture. The slide is G34 length. Super happy with the results. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/20231227_134221_jpg-3072807.JPG Damn, that looks fantastic! I have a roll of PA6-CF I intend to use for a SF-5, and then probably another Glock. Just need to find time to dial it in. |
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USA
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Posted: 12/31/2023 7:47:58 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blob: Finally got setup to print nylon and worked out a lot of bugs. Had to switch to a 0.6 nozzle because the 0.4 was clog city, but I got a fabulous print in the end. Polymaker PA6-CF on my Prusa MK3S+. The frame is a PY2A G69 (G17 frame with G19 grip length) that I modified myself to accept FMDA rails and added a gen 5 like texture. The slide is G34 length. Super happy with the results. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/20231227_134221_jpg-3072807.JPG Turned out nice. I had all kinds of issues with PA and PA/CF until I switch to a .6 nozzle. |
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Posted: 1/1/2024 12:00:05 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TODD-67: Turned out nice. I had all kinds of issues with PA and PA/CF until I switch to a .6 nozzle. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TODD-67: Originally Posted By Blob: Finally got setup to print nylon and worked out a lot of bugs. Had to switch to a 0.6 nozzle because the 0.4 was clog city, but I got a fabulous print in the end. Polymaker PA6-CF on my Prusa MK3S+. The frame is a PY2A G69 (G17 frame with G19 grip length) that I modified myself to accept FMDA rails and added a gen 5 like texture. The slide is G34 length. Super happy with the results. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/20231227_134221_jpg-3072807.JPG Turned out nice. I had all kinds of issues with PA and PA/CF until I switch to a .6 nozzle. Got a MK4 for the family for Christmas and figured I would try nylon down the road but all I see on Prusa's website is .4 nozzle, where did you get a .6 nozzle? Is it hardened stainless? |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 1/1/2024 12:24:07 AM EDT
[#38]
Air burst/Point detonating 40mm rounds (thanks to SGTFISH)
  I wish those 14.5mm M181/M183 projectiles were as cheap and plentiful as they once were. |
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Posted: 1/1/2024 12:32:27 AM EDT
[#39]
Learned on an Ender3 for about 2 years and printed the basic stuff and some useful tools but never dreamed I could do stuff I'm doing now so easily.
Bambu p1s purchased on Black Friday and it hasn't stopped since. Still figuring out the more complex models like the py2a g19 models but Im learning and getting better. this is going now and has a few tweaks to the original file so we shall see if it works.  Attached File |
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Posted: 1/14/2024 3:45:55 PM EDT
[#40]
Printed a Chairmanwon Spaceman 17 in cheap PLA before I use up some PA6-CF or PAHT-CF on it. This frame came out nearly perfect, and the pin holes need the bare minimum of cleanup.
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Posted: 1/14/2024 5:24:37 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By chevrofreak: Printed a Chairmanwon Spaceman 17 in cheap PLA before I use up some PA6-CF or PAHT-CF on it. This frame came out nearly perfect, and the pin holes need the bare minimum of cleanup. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/74212/IMG20240114110657-3094290.jpg How is the learning curve for printing PA6-CF? I have been printing PETG on my Ender 3 pro for quite sometime and have turning out some decent prints. Is an enclosure needed for PA6-CF? Hardened nozzle? |
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Posted: 1/14/2024 8:16:04 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By d1b3: How is the learning curve for printing PA6-CF? I have been printing PETG on my Ender 3 pro for quite sometime and have turning out some decent prints. Is an enclosure needed for PA6-CF? Hardened nozzle? I've been having a hell of a time. Most of my issues went away when I switched from a 0.4 to 0.6 nozzle but I'm still having some trouble with blobs here and there. Hardened nozzle for sure. Enclosure is recommended but I think you can get away without if the room isn't drafty. You need an all metal horned that can go to 300C. |
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Posted: 1/15/2024 11:31:10 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By d1b3: How is the learning curve for printing PA6-CF? I have been printing PETG on my Ender 3 pro for quite sometime and have turning out some decent prints. Is an enclosure needed for PA6-CF? Hardened nozzle? I have yet to print with the PA6-CF, but I do have an enclosed printer and hardened nozzle. I'm just trying to learn about the level of support these frames need so I don't waste expensive filament. I've had 2 prints fail in PLA and PLA+ because the support trees came loose from the textured PEI plate that I've been using. Adding a 5mm brim to the support resulted in two successful prints in the white PLA and black PLA+. 
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Posted: 1/15/2024 12:13:03 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By chevrofreak: I have yet to print with the PA6-CF, but I do have an enclosed printer and hardened nozzle. I'm just trying to learn about the level of support these frames need so I don't waste expensive filament. I've had 2 prints fail in PLA and PLA+ because the support trees came loose from the textured PEI plate that I've been using. Adding a 5mm brim to the support resulted in two successful prints in the white PLA and black PLA+. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/74212/IMG20240114165216-3095301.jpg On the dry aspect, when you get a new roll just assume it's wet, cook it for 12 hours or more and if possible feed it from the drying box. My Sunlu dry box only heats to 55C which isn't really enough so when I want to print with that, I put the roll on the heat bed in my enclosure and put a filament box over it and heat the bed to 85C and let it cook, then transfer to the sunlu box to feed it for printing. I also had issue getting it to stick to my textured side of the PEI sheet, even with a new one scrubbed clean. I ended up using the smooth side of the sheet instead and with a little aquanet to help it hold and haven't had a detached PA6 print since. |
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Posted: 1/15/2024 1:24:33 PM EDT
[#45]
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Posted: 1/16/2024 3:47:09 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NAM: Air burst/Point detonating 40mm rounds (thanks to SGTFISH) https://i.imgur.com/vwvDFDJ.png https://i.imgur.com/4Y0Wwk4.png I wish those 14.5mm M181/M183 projectiles were as cheap and plentiful as they once were. NEAT! Always like the 40mm but make do with a can cannon and printed projos these days. |
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Posted: 1/20/2024 1:44:25 AM EDT
[#47]
FTN.3 "rifle-rates" silencer for Form 1 cans is now sailing
https://old.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/19akffu/ftn3_rifle_rated_suppressor_now_sailing/ |
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Posted: 1/21/2024 2:42:51 PM EDT
[#48]
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Posted: 1/21/2024 3:27:42 PM EDT
[#49]
looks like its coming out real nice!
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Posted: 1/21/2024 10:44:09 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bionicmonkey: looks like its coming out real nice! Turned out pretty good. Just ordered the stuff to finish it out.  Attached File Attached File |
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