User Panel
Posted: 5/11/2024 12:37:19 PM EDT
Remodeling an old house with 2x4 rafters. Don't want to have any additional weight than necessary so leaning towards the 1/2, which says it is sag resistant, but don't want to spend time an effort and have it sagging soon. What experiences have you all had?
|
|
|
It's not the 2x4 joists you need to take into account, but the spacing of them. If it's 16" OC spacing then 1/2" is standard.
|
|
|
Platinum status courtesy of Rudukai13, thanks brother! Buaidh No Bas!
|
|
Worried about weight, Use 3/8” 4'x8' or 4'x12' sheetrock
|
|
|
Originally Posted By Ndenway1twicetimes: Worried about weight, Use 3/8” 4'x8' or 4'x12' sheetrock View Quote Not exactly. The USG 1/2" "ultralight" drywall, 4x8 sheet weighs just over 39lbs. The USG 3/8" 4x8 weighs just under 39lbs. The USG 1/4" 4x8 weighs just under 30lbs. The USG 5/8" 4x8 weighs just under 71lbs. If you have the 1/2" USG or comparable product that is lighter than standard drywall, and your ceiling joists are 16" OC that's probably your best bet. If buying from a big box store, the weights are listed on the product page. |
|
|
Cool.
I never thought of using the ultralight sheets. |
|
|
If it matters, Check you local fire code. The purpose of 5/8” Sheetrock is to create a longer lasting fire barrier at the ceiling. If you’re not having it inspected or don’t worry about the fire resistance, don’t worry about it. You can use a thin plywood.
|
|
|
Originally Posted By Gastone165: If it matters, Check you local fire code. The purpose of 5/8" Sheetrock is to create a longer lasting fire barrier at the ceiling. If you're not having it inspected or don't worry about the fire resistance, don't worry about it. You can use a thin plywood. View Quote |
|
USN Retired: APR 1988 - MAY 2008
"My center is giving way, my right is falling back, situation excellent, I attack." —Ferdinand Foch |
Properly screwing it to the ceiling is going to dictate how secure it is whether 1/2 or 5/8 (screws just below Flush but not tearing the paper) My house is 1/2” and was nailed up- been that way for almost 40 years, but it’s quite loose (will be an easy demo) and there have been nail pops in the past. We are going to 5/8 when it’s replaced. Imo it’s gives a better final product flatter and stronger for pretty minimal extra cost.
|
|
|
We just did 80 yo house that had odd staggering of studs. We added a couple of cross braces and 1/2. They used 1/8 board, popcorn coating and r8. They drilled the ceiling fan right to the 1/8 4x8 boards.
1/2 with r32 and real electrical boxes and braces. |
|
VCDL Member
NRA Life Member |
Check your code. I think 1/2” is standard in most cases inside the house; 5/8” X-rated in garages
|
|
|
Originally Posted By Ef4life: Properly screwing it to the ceiling is going to dictate how secure it is whether 1/2 or 5/8 (screws just below Flush but not tearing the paper) My house is 1/2” and was nailed up- been that way for almost 40 years, but it’s quite loose (will be an easy demo) and there have been nail pops in the past. We are going to 5/8 when it’s replaced. Imo it’s gives a better final product flatter and stronger for pretty minimal extra cost. View Quote Back in '79, we took a course at the USG plant where they taught you all of the ins and outs of working with sheetrock. On ceilings, their rule was: 1 screw on each edge, and "three in the field". That means 5 screws across the sheet. Adhesive isn't really necessary if you're doing it properly. |
|
|
1/2” unless you need a specific fire code rating.
|
|
|
5/8 on ceilings is becoming more popular with either 24" OC ceiling joists, rafters, and trusses or with 16" OC now due to the weight of insulation on top causing it to sag. 24" OC should be 5/8 regardless, but with energy codes requiring r-70 attic insulation, 5/8 is becoming the norm even with 16" OC due to the weight of the insulation. At 16" OC with 2x4 rafters your insulation weight is negligible, so 1/2" ultralight should be fine. You might also consider putting some foam board insulation of some type below the rafters to get some extra insulation.
I'm not a sheetrocker, but am a nerd, so there's that. |
|
|
5/8 is better
More dense. It helps deaden sound. Better fire rating |
|
|
Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
|
Originally Posted By jsmith1997: Remodeling an old house with 2x4 rafters. Don't want to have any additional weight than necessary so leaning towards the 1/2, which says it is sag resistant, but don't want to spend time an effort and have it sagging soon. What experiences have you all had? View Quote I would use 1/2" unless I had an upstairs and wanted to deaden sound. If so I would use 5/8. |
Nobody ever wakes me at 2 in the morning telling me that my grass is out on the highway.~~Radiopat
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.